NEED HELP!!!!!!!! Car blew on Dyno.. next steps

drusmith

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Sucks but my car blew on the dyno after new 76mm Precision Turbo Hellion kit was installed. #7 went maybe more are damaged to others, we find out Thursday. I am not worrying about why it happen but what I should do next.

Since I am going inside the engine what should I do? Obviously new Pistons, but what kind? Rings of course too. Rods should be fine and they are stock but still bad ass. Do you guys think I should upgrade them or stay stock Manley Forged? Anything else you guys can suggest. Anything with the crank or is that good enough? I was hoping for 650whp thru the auto. Now I would be happy with tops of 750-800. I have limited budget since I was not planning on spending more after a $10K Turbo build and just re-roofing my house for $4k lol :beer:
 

drusmith

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You should be or it'll just happen again.

That is an issue I am working with the Automotive shop. We have ideas what it is and we will find out after its part tonight.

Just wondering what new parts I should be getting while it is open.
 

Poppacapp

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That is an issue I am working with the Automotive shop. We have ideas what it is and we will find out after its part tonight.

Just wondering what new parts I should be getting while it is open.

Generally, in my opinion, a good dyno operator would be watching a/f like a hawk and let off.. but I guess anything can happen. I have also heard of operators overrevving the motor expecting the rev limiter to kick in and it didn't. Not sure what the case was in your situation, but good luck with the rebuild. :beer:
 

CobraBob

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I wouldn't do a thing, or plan anything, as far as parts until you first find out (1) the extent of the damage and (2) what caused it. If you need a motor re-build then you are going to have to decide who is going to source the new motor. First things first.
 

c6zhombre

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You should be or it'll just happen again.

+1

I hope the shop was datalogging the car during the tuning session. I would demand to see the datalog. These motors don't generally "just implode"....they're tough sob's. I would question everything and not trust anyone else's conclusions. You need to check the tune and fuel system with a fine tooth comb or this will happen again and again and be a massive money pit
 

stangposse

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I'd be careful letting the same people who were involved in wrenching/tuning this setup get involved in the rebuild/re-tune of your new setup. You really should post up more details as to what really happened. As we all know, anything can happen when modding, but all possibilities must be looked at....and many outcomes will point to the people working on your car. Just sayin.
 

drusmith

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Guys, stop! this is not about the tune or the blown engine. that is all being taken care of. trust me.

My engine will be open and I was asking what I should put back in. I think just some really nice pistons/rings and keep crank and rods. Replace main bearings and rod bearings too.
 

MalcolmV8

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When I did mine back in 09 all I did was put pistons in due to lack of funds at the time. In hind sight I wish I'd put some bad ass rods in there and I wish I'd switched to an aluminum block. Be nice to have saved that extra weight off the nose of the car.
 

drusmith

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+1

I hope the shop was datalogging the car during the tuning session. I would demand to see the datalog. These motors don't generally "just implode"....they're tough sob's. I would question everything and not trust anyone else's conclusions. You need to check the tune and fuel system with a fine tooth comb or this will happen again and again and be a massive money pit

Agreed with you guys! I have pictures of the dyno Graphs on 2 dyno pulls. Trust me when I say this will be taken care of.
 

drusmith

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When I did mine back in 09 all I did was put pistons in due to lack of funds at the time. In hind sight I wish I'd put some bad ass rods in there and I wish I'd switched to an aluminum block. Be nice to have saved that extra weight off the nose of the car.

Hmmmm, but aren't the stock Manley rods bad ass? Are there much better ones?
 

rxpwhistler1

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Use the stock rods, if they are not damaged there is no point in replacing/upgrading. They are great rods.

You're going to do what you want but the advice about switching tuners is the best advice you could possibly ask for. With that said, good luck with the new setup. :beer:
 

2010 Red&white

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Stop Now & make a build plan complete with goals
1.) Build internal engine parts for 600 HP , 800 HP or 1000 HP ?????
2.) Mod Fuel system based on data logs & new goals
3.) Staying with turbo ??
4.) Discuss with tuner what went wrong. ( his opinion)
5.) Review your HP goals with your $$$$ budget
6.) No Plan...No goals ...No luck..Lost bucks $$
My opinion only.
 

drusmith

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Use the stock rods, if they are not damaged there is no point in replacing/upgrading. They are great rods.

You're going to do what you want but the advice about switching tuners is the best advice you could possibly ask for. With that said, good luck with the new setup. :beer:

Thank you!!!! That is good advice and have thought about that.
 

drusmith

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Stop Now & make a build plan complete with goals
1.) Build internal engine parts for 600 HP , 800 HP or 1000 HP ?????
2.) Mod Fuel system based on data logs & new goals
3.) Staying with turbo ??
4.) Discuss with tuner what went wrong. ( his opinion)
5.) Review your HP goals with your $$$$ budget
6.) No Plan...No goals ...No luck..Lost bucks $$
My opinion only.

My plan was to build a completely different engine next year that will reach 1000hp. Right now I do not have the cash flow to achieve this goal at this minute.

- I am return fuel system now goof for 800whp
- yes. Turbo
- Already discussed what went wrong and will be determined after they pull it apart today.
- my new goal now is 750-800~ (affordable at this time)
- Plan is to still build a 2nd engine from the pan up!

Hope this helps
 

c6zhombre

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Agreed with you guys! I have pictures of the dyno Graphs on 2 dyno pulls. Trust me when I say this will be taken care of.

The dyno graph is not really that important....what is important is the datalog. Regardless what shop/tuner you end up with after the build, your car needs and deserves a quality wideband with datalog capability. Just a gauge inside the cabin is not adequate for tuning...it needs to log to a laptop. You can do this yourself and its worth every penny and trouble...get the w/b setup, buy yourself an inexpensive laptop and learn how to wire in an analog datawire to your handheld tuner like sct. You can take control of the data and trust me, any shop will take you a lot more seriously. Or....this also will give you the capability to deal with a quality ford modular tuner of your choice remotely through email. Best of luck with the new motor :beer:
 

younggun04

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My plan was to build a completely different engine next year that will reach 1000hp. Right now I do not have the cash flow to achieve this goal at this minute.

- I am return fuel system now goof for 800whp
- yes. Turbo
- Already discussed what went wrong and will be determined after they pull it apart today.
- my new goal now is 750-800~ (affordable at this time)
- Plan is to still build a 2nd engine from the pan up!

Hope this helps


Sounds like your spending more money than you should. I wouldn't touch that tuner again if he just let a motor go on the dyno. I have the same setup as you making what your goals for a built motor is on my stock motor the last year and a half. Could something happen to mine sure but its all in the tune. Usually motor just don't let go for no reason and why won't you tell us??

If you build the motor even on a budget short block should still be able to take a ton of power. Why on earth would you build two motors if you so concerned about spending money lol.
 

snakerider

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I don't get it either. Op is says he doesn't have funds for a new motor but want to build a 2nd motor lol. May be he is building 2nd motor because, he doesn't have faith in his tuner or engine builder :shrug:
 

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