All the remans come with the latest 9 thread heads.
My remanned engine build/install thread
- Thread starter JDUB348
- Start date
All the remans come with the latest 9 thread heads.
If any are interested.. my buddy could possibly make you a picking plate. He said he would probably want around $200 shipped as the piece of steel he used to make his was $100 by itself
Where'd you order the engine from I need one?
Tousley ford.. Now known as autonation ford parts i think?
Nice progress, I was able to get mine in this weekend as well.
I have the stock manifolds, so no problems there. Original plan to go in with the trans bolted up was changed because of a broken TOB tube, so no trans until later this week. Part is on its way.
Mike
I have the stock manifolds, so no problems there. Original plan to go in with the trans bolted up was changed because of a broken TOB tube, so no trans until later this week. Part is on its way.
Mike
Some updates.. made some good progress on the car today.. heres some pictures.. she will be coming to life within the next month 
Gonna have a second set of eyes take a look at all my connections/hoses before i proceed with putting the intake manifold/blower on.
Getting excited to see it all done.. heck of alot more motivating to work on it now seeing as how its so close to running once again
I'm kind of wondering, my car has a 1/2 tank of gas sitting in it right now. The gas is probably 2-3 months old now? Would it be smart to siphon the gas out of the tank before i start the new engine or is 2-3 month old gas nothing to worry about?
Gonna have a second set of eyes take a look at all my connections/hoses before i proceed with putting the intake manifold/blower on.
Getting excited to see it all done.. heck of alot more motivating to work on it now seeing as how its so close to running once again
I'm kind of wondering, my car has a 1/2 tank of gas sitting in it right now. The gas is probably 2-3 months old now? Would it be smart to siphon the gas out of the tank before i start the new engine or is 2-3 month old gas nothing to worry about?
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Looks good ! I just did the same and currently breaking mine in . I had gas from 6 months ago bout 1/4 tank I just went fill it up with 93 and seems fine . I am staying outa boost though until tune
Coming along.. got quite a bit of things done recently.. tomorrow i'll be putting the new spark plugs in, gator back blower belt, reconnecting the steering shaft.. list goes on.
congrats man she is coming along nicely! I know how you feel when its almost done you get so excited lol
That's a nice engine. When my 03 mach engine went toast I went to a junkyard and found a 04 longblock for $1600 so I had to steal it. After I removed the engine off the junkyard K-member I noticed a tag on the side of my block and it was remanufactured by ford in 2008. so I guess I stole a lower mileage engine then I expected.
Got alot done this weekend. I'm hoping i can start it by this coming weekend
Got the transmission all back in, drive shaft hooked up, hood is back on now, got the engine bay all re assembled.. and took care of a bunch of small things over the weekend. List to do..
O2 sensors (waiting on mail)
Blower belt (waiting on mail)
Wide band (hook up)
Oil (Need to contact who ever built the engine and see what THEY recommend as far as starting it for the first time and changing the oil..)
Power steering fluid
Transmission fluid
Reinstall shifter
Coolant
Mid pipe (hook up)
Re route clutch cable.. i dont believe i have it routed correctly right now
Hook clutch cable up
Might be forgetting other small things.. but its now down to little things as you can see. Was easy getting the transmission in today, this was my second time reinstalling it. I like to hulk it in there.. get it on my chest and push that baby right up and in.. easiest way i've found ;-)
Got the transmission all back in, drive shaft hooked up, hood is back on now, got the engine bay all re assembled.. and took care of a bunch of small things over the weekend. List to do..
O2 sensors (waiting on mail)
Blower belt (waiting on mail)
Wide band (hook up)
Oil (Need to contact who ever built the engine and see what THEY recommend as far as starting it for the first time and changing the oil..)
Power steering fluid
Transmission fluid
Reinstall shifter
Coolant
Mid pipe (hook up)
Re route clutch cable.. i dont believe i have it routed correctly right now
Hook clutch cable up
Might be forgetting other small things.. but its now down to little things as you can see. Was easy getting the transmission in today, this was my second time reinstalling it. I like to hulk it in there.. get it on my chest and push that baby right up and in.. easiest way i've found ;-)
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$200 worth of fluids later... Hoping to start it within the next few hours!
Car is officially running again only thing left in question is my air/fuel ratio is a little off... it sits around 15.8-16 at idle. I've sent a datalog and email to Eric @ brookspeed to see what he thinks
only thing left in question is my air/fuel ratio is a little off... it sits around 15.8-16 at idle. I've sent a datalog and email to Eric @ brookspeed to see what he thinks
No they wouldn't use the same size pistons, in a .020 overbore. It would sound terrible and wouldn't live long. Way too much clearance.
Car is officially running again
Congrats!
please see my break-in procedure. I researched the hell out of proper engine break in.
Started by using 5w-30 Conventional oil with a bottle of GM EOS. I primed the engine through the oil pressure switch port using a bug sprayer and a hose barb. I let the engine idle and warm up while I bleed the power steering and cooling system, also checked for leaks. After about 10 mins I drained the oil and changed the filter. Refilled with the same valvoline and EOS, test drove the car. Got to some open road and started in 3rd gear around 1k rpms, when 1/4 throttle to 4k, then let the engine compression brake back to 1k. Did this 4-5 times, then 1/2 throttle doing the same, then 3/4 throttle doing the same. Did this for about 20 miles.
Drained the oil and changed the filter. Refilled with Joe Gibbs break in oil (conventional 5w-30). I did the same procedure on the way home. I'm going run this oil for another 200 miles and change the oil and filter to conventional again. Ill will change the oil and filter every 500 miles until I have about 4k on this engine. Full syn 5w-30 will then go in.
I first ordered the RP Break in oil, but at the time it was on back order. So I decided on the Joe Gibbs stuff. I have been checking my JLT oil separator every 500 miles or so. I have only accumulated .5 oz in 4k miles!!!! That is a good sign there isn't much blow by, so it appears my rings have seated properly. Check out this site I used as a reference and modified the procedure a bit:
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
Good information in that link. I also found other engine builders who wrote pretty much the same thing about proper ring seating.
Good post:beer:
Update... so last night I tightened my mid pipe to collector bolts and I'm currently sitting in the car letting her warm up and my innovative wide band is sitting right around 14.5 all the small issues are officially addressed!
Amazes how that fixed the air fuel ratio issue.. as the exhaust didn't look loose at all.. but the wide band says other wise!
all the small issues are officially addressed!Amazes how that fixed the air fuel ratio issue.. as the exhaust didn't look loose at all.. but the wide band says other wise!
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Bumping my thread with an updated picture of the engine bay completely put back together:
Really wish it was possible to reset the odometer. The remanned engine has maybe 2,000 miles on it. My suspension has around 3,000 - 4,000 miles. Clutch setup has maybe 200 miles on it? Theres not much left on this car that has 56,000 miles on it.
Hoping with in a year or so to have a 2.9 whipple with the crusher inlet and return style fuel system on top of the engine ;-)
Really wish it was possible to reset the odometer. The remanned engine has maybe 2,000 miles on it. My suspension has around 3,000 - 4,000 miles. Clutch setup has maybe 200 miles on it? Theres not much left on this car that has 56,000 miles on it.
Hoping with in a year or so to have a 2.9 whipple with the crusher inlet and return style fuel system on top of the engine ;-)
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Just thought i'd get this going in the "proper" section of the forum.. basically i installed an autometer lunar series oil pressure gauge a couple months back.
When the car was idling i noticed the oil pressure gauge on both the autometer and lunar series gauges were dropping to zero at idle. I thought it could have been an electrical problem.. until i hooked a mechanical oil pressure gauge up to the engine and saw the same result.
In the end, it sounds like the old motor has a spun main bearing. I recall when i was accelerating around 2,000 - 3,000 rpm there was a some what of a "marble" sound through the throttle range.
Heres the car..
And the tear down..
How the car currently sits
And new engine arrives..
I thought this was the coolest thing to see.. my engine was literally built about 2 weeks ago
How the new engine currently sits.. just need to bolt the LT's on, clutch, flyhweel, bell housing and it's ready to go back in
More to come.. i've gotta get the cherry picker back from my buddies place and i shall continue with the install. The plan is to go through the top with the LT's bolted to the engine.. so it will be a tight fit! I know it can be done, as my buddy did this exact engine install with the exact LT's on his car.
I will not be swapping valve covers or oil pan on to the new engine. I did this on my OEM engine and i had a pretty bad oil leak, as there was oil all over everything on the original engine (timing cover, alternator, belts, pulleys.. everything). To me its not worth the risk as if you get an oil leak from the oil pan you're going to be either dropping the kmember or pulling the engine to change the gasket. Valve covers.. passenger side is easy, drivers side.. you'll be pulling apart the hole drivers side of the engine bay and taking apart the master cylinder just to get to it. I just don't want to create a head ache for my self again. Plus side is oil changes wont be as much any more with the stock pan lol
Where is the reman info plate located at on the engine ?
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