Just thought i'd get this going in the "proper" section of the forum.. basically i installed an autometer lunar series oil pressure gauge a couple months back.
When the car was idling i noticed the oil pressure gauge on both the autometer and lunar series gauges were dropping to zero at idle. I thought it could have been an electrical problem.. until i hooked a mechanical oil pressure gauge up to the engine and saw the same result.
In the end, it sounds like the old motor has a spun main bearing. I recall when i was accelerating around 2,000 - 3,000 rpm there was a some what of a "marble" sound through the throttle range.
Heres the car..
And the tear down..
How the car currently sits
And new engine arrives..
I thought this was the coolest thing to see.. my engine was literally built about 2 weeks ago
How the new engine currently sits.. just need to bolt the LT's on, clutch, flyhweel, bell housing and it's ready to go back in
More to come.. i've gotta get the cherry picker back from my buddies place and i shall continue with the install. The plan is to go through the top with the LT's bolted to the engine.. so it will be a tight fit! I know it can be done, as my buddy did this exact engine install with the exact LT's on his car.
I will not be swapping valve covers or oil pan on to the new engine. I did this on my OEM engine and i had a pretty bad oil leak, as there was oil all over everything on the original engine (timing cover, alternator, belts, pulleys.. everything). To me its not worth the risk as if you get an oil leak from the oil pan you're going to be either dropping the kmember or pulling the engine to change the gasket. Valve covers.. passenger side is easy, drivers side.. you'll be pulling apart the hole drivers side of the engine bay and taking apart the master cylinder just to get to it. I just don't want to create a head ache for my self again. Plus side is oil changes wont be as much any more with the stock pan lol
When the car was idling i noticed the oil pressure gauge on both the autometer and lunar series gauges were dropping to zero at idle. I thought it could have been an electrical problem.. until i hooked a mechanical oil pressure gauge up to the engine and saw the same result.
In the end, it sounds like the old motor has a spun main bearing. I recall when i was accelerating around 2,000 - 3,000 rpm there was a some what of a "marble" sound through the throttle range.
Heres the car..
And the tear down..
How the car currently sits
And new engine arrives..
I thought this was the coolest thing to see.. my engine was literally built about 2 weeks ago
How the new engine currently sits.. just need to bolt the LT's on, clutch, flyhweel, bell housing and it's ready to go back in
More to come.. i've gotta get the cherry picker back from my buddies place and i shall continue with the install. The plan is to go through the top with the LT's bolted to the engine.. so it will be a tight fit! I know it can be done, as my buddy did this exact engine install with the exact LT's on his car.
I will not be swapping valve covers or oil pan on to the new engine. I did this on my OEM engine and i had a pretty bad oil leak, as there was oil all over everything on the original engine (timing cover, alternator, belts, pulleys.. everything). To me its not worth the risk as if you get an oil leak from the oil pan you're going to be either dropping the kmember or pulling the engine to change the gasket. Valve covers.. passenger side is easy, drivers side.. you'll be pulling apart the hole drivers side of the engine bay and taking apart the master cylinder just to get to it. I just don't want to create a head ache for my self again. Plus side is oil changes wont be as much any more with the stock pan lol
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