All of that work looks like it payed off, looks like it was meant to be there.
I really wish I could get one of those crossmembers, I do not look forward to cutting/welding mine. I just started the tear down tonight on my T-56 magnum swap.
Is that the shift boot from the GT500 you're using? I was given a mustang GT boot (probably the same) so I'm gonna give that a shot.
Also, I think its time you update that signature!
Not sure if the trans mount is in the same location on a Magnum? Magnum is the way to go though! You can at least get an SFI bell housing for it (if it's not already) and you can reuse your driveshaft IIRC. The only thing I don't care for is the shifter location as it needs to be bent straight back then up and that has got to feel strange.
I know DR did a Magnum swap on Masters car or at least attempted to over a half a year plus..? Master loved his car and he sold it immediately after he got it back and no finished pics ever surfaced. He reused the stock cross member and only slightly modified it but I'm not sure if he ever bothered to set up the driveline angle to factory Marauder or if he just went "close enough". Mine would have been almost 2" too low even with a modified stock cross member hence why I just built my own. That was actually fun! Just jack up the trans to the original output elevation (I marked my lift lock to remember where I removed the auto and wrote the measurement from concrete up to center output shaft.) Also a 4' level fits perfectly in the mounting perches for perfect measuring on the new one.
I started with a 1/4" piece of plate steel bolted to the mount and 1 1/2" iron gas pipe with plugs welded on each end and drilled out mounted to the perches. All the rest was 30* angles precut and tacked into place and 1 1/4" iron pipe to fill in between the two rails. All of it is straight across until it comes down to pick up the trans mount and then they angle slightly back to line up with the plate steel mount. For mine the max width between the front of the mount and the trans was 1" so I used 3/4" x 1 1/2" rectangular steel and since that isn't beefy enough I doubled it and cross supported. What I ended up with was something that weighed LESS than half the original piece and stronger!
As for the shifter boot I believe they are the same for any mustang but I ordered it as a GT500 piece on EBay. Zack loved it and tried it out on his ratchet shifter in his black car and once again a perfect fit with no counsel modifications. They can be bought on eBay all day for around $30.
If I were to do it all again I think I would look into the cutch pedals offered through Wilwood more closely. Sure, you might have to shorten it or something, but trust me that would be easy compared to the hell I went through! After straightening out the PCM thanks to the way it enters the cabin on an angle I ended up with 1 1/4" to stuff a pedal in! THAT was the worst part about the swap!
Good luck Ryan! Hope your goals get met!!
Early on I was hit or miss on it but ended up using just cheap Summit fuel lines as the budget blew up in my face LOL. I do have an alkicontrol still in the box but not sure if I even really want more power?
I fabbed up the cross member and had to gut the tunnel and mock up a new one to allow for the remote under mount shifter. I had to shorten the shifter an 1 1/4" to come up dead nuts center into the counsel and also extend the shifter handle about an 1 1/2" for the stock feel.
I adapted a hybrid of fox body, GT500, and a bag of misc hardware to the factory brake pedal and still retain power adjust pedals.
I used the new style master cylinder with a -3 line down to the slave but will be replacing it with a Tick Performance one for an F body as I've snapped two stock units in 10,000 miles due to the need of a slight pivot to make it work with the space provided. The Tick one has all kinds of adjustability.
Also since it's a fixed flange output shaft I had hell trying to get the local driveshaft builders to build something that wouldn't warp at WOT 80 and up. They kept insisting on steel telescoping shafts... Long story short, two shafts, three rebalances, a tow off the 1,000' at the track, and a BEAUTIFUL new Driveshaft Shop constant velocity shaft later (and works flawlessly!) I'm $2,000 into the shafts...!
But everyone who's driven it says the entire swap feels like a brand new Mustang. Even Hans @ Deans Performance was grinning ear to ear saying it feels like one of the most well balanced out Mustangs he's driven handling wise and the power hits real hard right off idle and never stops pulling.
Bad ass. I always used to see you driving down Roosevelt in Wheaton/Winfield.......unless there is another S/C Marauder with a cowl hood in the area.