My F1-A 6 speed Marauder

offroadkarter

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I really wish I could get one of those crossmembers, I do not look forward to cutting/welding mine. I just started the tear down tonight on my T-56 magnum swap.

Is that the shift boot from the GT500 you're using? I was given a mustang GT boot (probably the same) so I'm gonna give that a shot.


Also, I think its time you update that signature!
 

justbob

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I really wish I could get one of those crossmembers, I do not look forward to cutting/welding mine. I just started the tear down tonight on my T-56 magnum swap.

Is that the shift boot from the GT500 you're using? I was given a mustang GT boot (probably the same) so I'm gonna give that a shot.


Also, I think its time you update that signature!

Not sure if the trans mount is in the same location on a Magnum? Magnum is the way to go though! You can at least get an SFI bell housing for it (if it's not already) and you can reuse your driveshaft IIRC. The only thing I don't care for is the shifter location as it needs to be bent straight back then up and that has got to feel strange.

I know DR did a Magnum swap on Masters car or at least attempted to over a half a year plus..? Master loved his car and he sold it immediately after he got it back and no finished pics ever surfaced. He reused the stock cross member and only slightly modified it but I'm not sure if he ever bothered to set up the driveline angle to factory Marauder or if he just went "close enough". Mine would have been almost 2" too low even with a modified stock cross member hence why I just built my own. That was actually fun! Just jack up the trans to the original output elevation (I marked my lift lock to remember where I removed the auto and wrote the measurement from concrete up to center output shaft.) Also a 4' level fits perfectly in the mounting perches for perfect measuring on the new one.

I started with a 1/4" piece of plate steel bolted to the mount and 1 1/2" iron gas pipe with plugs welded on each end and drilled out mounted to the perches. All the rest was 30* angles precut and tacked into place and 1 1/4" iron pipe to fill in between the two rails. All of it is straight across until it comes down to pick up the trans mount and then they angle slightly back to line up with the plate steel mount. For mine the max width between the front of the mount and the trans was 1" so I used 3/4" x 1 1/2" rectangular steel and since that isn't beefy enough I doubled it and cross supported. What I ended up with was something that weighed LESS than half the original piece and stronger!

As for the shifter boot I believe they are the same for any mustang but I ordered it as a GT500 piece on EBay. Zack loved it and tried it out on his ratchet shifter in his black car and once again a perfect fit with no counsel modifications. They can be bought on eBay all day for around $30.

If I were to do it all again I think I would look into the cutch pedals offered through Wilwood more closely. Sure, you might have to shorten it or something, but trust me that would be easy compared to the hell I went through! After straightening out the PCM thanks to the way it enters the cabin on an angle I ended up with 1 1/4" to stuff a pedal in! THAT was the worst part about the swap!

Good luck Ryan! Hope your goals get met!!
 

offroadkarter

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Not sure if the trans mount is in the same location on a Magnum? Magnum is the way to go though! You can at least get an SFI bell housing for it (if it's not already) and you can reuse your driveshaft IIRC. The only thing I don't care for is the shifter location as it needs to be bent straight back then up and that has got to feel strange.

I never thought of that, the magnum and TR-6060 are supposed to be very very similar, but I have no idea if the mounts line up. I still have to chop 2" off my driveshaft though, so I have an AMMX I'm going to have rebuilt.I ordered the whole kit through ADTR, thankfully chris hooked me up with a custom built shifter that will fit dead center of the OEM console. I ended up going with a NOS OEM 03/04 cobra bellhousing just to save a few bucks, not sure my car is wild enough to warrant it anyways. I do have a driveshaft loop that'll toss on though!

I know DR did a Magnum swap on Masters car or at least attempted to over a half a year plus..? Master loved his car and he sold it immediately after he got it back and no finished pics ever surfaced. He reused the stock cross member and only slightly modified it but I'm not sure if he ever bothered to set up the driveline angle to factory Marauder or if he just went "close enough". Mine would have been almost 2" too low even with a modified stock cross member hence why I just built my own. That was actually fun! Just jack up the trans to the original output elevation (I marked my lift lock to remember where I removed the auto and wrote the measurement from concrete up to center output shaft.) Also a 4' level fits perfectly in the mounting perches for perfect measuring on the new one.


I started with a 1/4" piece of plate steel bolted to the mount and 1 1/2" iron gas pipe with plugs welded on each end and drilled out mounted to the perches. All the rest was 30* angles precut and tacked into place and 1 1/4" iron pipe to fill in between the two rails. All of it is straight across until it comes down to pick up the trans mount and then they angle slightly back to line up with the plate steel mount. For mine the max width between the front of the mount and the trans was 1" so I used 3/4" x 1 1/2" rectangular steel and since that isn't beefy enough I doubled it and cross supported. What I ended up with was something that weighed LESS than half the original piece and stronger!

I remember seeing pictures of the shifter which had a weird shift boot and the OEM shift handle, I think that distracted me from everything else :-D. I'm going to end up modifying my OEM crossmember to work, a friend of mine did it that way on his 4v/T-56 mag P71. Your crossmember looks so well done though.

As for the shifter boot I believe they are the same for any mustang but I ordered it as a GT500 piece on EBay. Zack loved it and tried it out on his ratchet shifter in his black car and once again a perfect fit with no counsel modifications. They can be bought on eBay all day for around $30.

Thats good to hear, I should be okay on that front then.

If I were to do it all again I think I would look into the cutch pedals offered through Wilwood more closely. Sure, you might have to shorten it or something, but trust me that would be easy compared to the hell I went through! After straightening out the PCM thanks to the way it enters the cabin on an angle I ended up with 1 1/4" to stuff a pedal in! THAT was the worst part about the swap!

I bought the pedals off Pier and while I'll lose power pedals, I never used them anyways so I'm not to worried about that. The only thing that irks me is the clutch pedal and brake pedal aren't parallel to each other, but he wouldn't lengthen the brake pedal due to liability reasons with having to cut/weld, and I don't blame him for that one bit.

Good luck Ryan! Hope your goals get met!!


Thanks, I'm gonna need it :p
 

BlksvtCobra01

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Early on I was hit or miss on it but ended up using just cheap Summit fuel lines as the budget blew up in my face LOL. I do have an alkicontrol still in the box but not sure if I even really want more power?


I fabbed up the cross member and had to gut the tunnel and mock up a new one to allow for the remote under mount shifter. I had to shorten the shifter an 1 1/4" to come up dead nuts center into the counsel and also extend the shifter handle about an 1 1/2" for the stock feel.

I adapted a hybrid of fox body, GT500, and a bag of misc hardware to the factory brake pedal and still retain power adjust pedals.

I used the new style master cylinder with a -3 line down to the slave but will be replacing it with a Tick Performance one for an F body as I've snapped two stock units in 10,000 miles due to the need of a slight pivot to make it work with the space provided. The Tick one has all kinds of adjustability.

Also since it's a fixed flange output shaft I had hell trying to get the local driveshaft builders to build something that wouldn't warp at WOT 80 and up. They kept insisting on steel telescoping shafts... Long story short, two shafts, three rebalances, a tow off the 1,000' at the track, and a BEAUTIFUL new Driveshaft Shop constant velocity shaft later (and works flawlessly!) I'm $2,000 into the shafts...!

But everyone who's driven it says the entire swap feels like a brand new Mustang. Even Hans @ Deans Performance was grinning ear to ear saying it feels like one of the most well balanced out Mustangs he's driven handling wise and the power hits real hard right off idle and never stops pulling.

I can see not wanting more power thing looks perfect bet it moves out was just curious cause E85 is like 104 or 108 octane I believe.
 

droptCobra

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Bad ass. I always used to see you driving down Roosevelt in Wheaton/Winfield.......unless there is another S/C Marauder with a cowl hood in the area.
 

justbob

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Bad ass. I always used to see you driving down Roosevelt in Wheaton/Winfield.......unless there is another S/C Marauder with a cowl hood in the area.

I've lived there for thirteen years. I've been waiting for someone to say that LOL This isn't no garage queen! With the exception of weather...
 

scott_0

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what an awesome build! very very cool, surprised you chose a manual
 

Shifty Powers

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Absolutely amazing! Love the car and build!

any thoughts on new shoes for it at some point?

Either way. Incredible man. Couldn't of thought of a better way to do one myself
 

justbob

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Wow, thanks for all the kind words everyone! I wasn't expecting much as its a sedan and all.

I kind of had my mind on the Chicago half mile shootout when I dreamed this up. Of course I'm not seeing a listing for this year now! Not sure if I could find the balls to pilot this girl either..
 

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