If I can make it back in time, I might be on a flight back from Malaysia on that day, but if im there and my car is ready I will come out.
My 2011 build.
- Thread starter BAD GT
- Start date
If I can make it back in time, I might be on a flight back from Malaysia on that day, but if im there and my car is ready I will come out.
I'll be there with the CDC crew, so that is why i asked. I'll most likely see your car down at woodward though!
Ive boght many parts from CDC in the past, good company.
It is hard to say because we get huge correction factors on our numbers here due to elevation. I was at 670hp with a 1.25 correction factor, so 536 actual and ran a 10.99, this was on the 3.25" pulley.
I then put in a 3200/3400 stall converter and dropped .25" in pulley and that got me the 10.40's. I never dyno'd it in that config. At lower elevation the converter doesn't seem to be needed but I had to have it up here to get decent 60's.
It will be interesting to see what your car does with the stock converter.
I had the stock converter loosened up about 300rpm.
I think I'm at about 680hp but that's at 15psi on race fuel, we wanted to put race fuel for the initial run because we did not know how much boost it was going to make. I know every dyno is different and numbers don't mean much so we will see what it runs at the track.
If it dosent run the times it will get more boost!
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I'm thinking if the converter is in the sweet spot, those numbers are actual, and you have sticky tires and dead hook you should be able to whoop my times all over the place. That is a lot more power than I had (if you can trust a dyno or care to try comparing them)
One last piece of the puzzle is good trans tuning as well, seems there is a lot to be had or lost there depending on the tune/shifting/lockup config.
One last piece of the puzzle is good trans tuning as well, seems there is a lot to be had or lost there depending on the tune/shifting/lockup config.
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I was told the shift points are user adjustable now, that will be useful!
I should have a dyno sheet to post tomorrow.
Nice numbers
I have the ford racing 10 rib kit so it has a ATI overdrive balancer, I will find out what size the dirve pulley is, I wil have to ask.
I was told it made 15psi.
Nice a 3.325 pulley and 7.88 overdrive (which the ATI is) would normally make 18+ psi. Shows your engine is flowing really good to read a much lower psi. I bet you would pick up quite a few ponies and drop another 1-2psi with a big-ass mono-blade throttle body.
My tuner wants me to try it the way it is, we think it will run pretty good and like you say more boost and other things means lots of room for improvment!
The boost lowers with more air flow before the blower? I though it increased?
So going to a better flowing throttle body will lower boost?
(back pressure)
I thought I read that somewhere about installing a bigger intake (more free flowing) caused the boost to increase because you are feeding the motor more air creating more back pressure; not getting it out of the motor faster?
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Yep, my bad, misspoke (mistyped?). A bigger throttle will increase boost, because the blower is not having to use energy to "suck" past the throttle. While opening the intake path post-blower will lower psi because there is less restriction.
You have a good combo for sure. Some tuners dont like the big mono-blade throttles cause they can be a pain to get the street driveability dialed in on. Still havent bought mine yet, but leaning towards the Whipple twin 75mm.
Your numbers are spot on what I am expecting to see as well, for same basic set-up. 650-700rwhp on a rock solid worry free platform and pump gas.
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