Also just scored two barely used polished tial 38mm wastegates (one on ebay, one on craigslist) for just under the price of one new one. Score!
MTBSully's 04 TR Cobra On3 FF Turbo Build
- Thread starter MTBSully
- Start date
Nice find. You should be fine with just one of them though. No need to complicate things with two. I run a 38mm and have zero issues.
I run two WG and it isnt complicated at all. Came out to be about the same price to run two as it was one. By the time you buy pipe, flex joint, v bands and the fab time to weld it all up you could just run two and be done with it.
What would be the purpose of running a dual 38mm over a single 44? I'm just curious if one would perform better over the other or if it's just personal preference?
Just adding another possible cause of an issue with two wastegates. Other then having them for looks it serves no purpose to have two unless your making huge power.
If you dont need two sell me oneIt'll be the first part i acquire for my future build lol
Will do bud lol
Exactly my thoughts
Not sure if either of you know but the 2nd gen FF on3 hotside has 2 38mm wastegate flanges. Apparently during the initial testing of the kit, *sometimes* at lower boost levels, there would be boost creep. So a second wastegate port was added. Would my setup have boost creep? Probably not, but I didn't think it was worth the potential headache of having to get all the way to my tuner only to find I was going to either need to weld on a 44mm wastegate flange somewhere, or add a second 38mm. I scored the second wastegate for like $120 or something like that, so I couldn't say no. If it turns out I don't need it, it could very easily be sold.
Picking up my OEM ford exhaust manifold gaskets today
Have some questions about the iat1 and iat2. I am about to tap my 01 intake for the iat2, and I am confused as to how people are doing this. Most of the pictures I see are of the sensor like this:
However, this way seems to ensure that my iat2 would never be able to be plugged in due to the position of the IAC motor.
Would this orientation be okay?
How do you ensure that it is sealed?
Also, since I am running a Slot style maf, do I need to have an IAT1 or can I delete that all together. Thanks guys
However, this way seems to ensure that my iat2 would never be able to be plugged in due to the position of the IAC motor.
Would this orientation be okay?
How do you ensure that it is sealed?
Also, since I am running a Slot style maf, do I need to have an IAT1 or can I delete that all together. Thanks guys
Iat2 won't matter as long as you can plug it in and get it to seal. I put some high temp rtv around the o-ring just to be sure.
Iat1 is nice to have so you can see the efficiency of the intercooler but it serves no purpose in the tune. I have mine plugged into the end of my air filter.
Iat1 is nice to have so you can see the efficiency of the intercooler but it serves no purpose in the tune. I have mine plugged into the end of my air filter.
Good idea. Thanks man
For my setup it was alot eaiser to run two 38 over one 44. Not alot of room where both pipes come into one and into the flange for turbo. After adding it all up and the deal i found on two new 38mm tial WG it was with in 50$ to just run two. Less welding and less fab work for two WG. A buddy welded everything for me so i wanted to make it easy on him. The best place to mount the WG is in the outside turn of the pipe where the WG has a striaght flow for the exhaust to bleed off. If it isnt then you could have a problem with it not bleed the exhaust off like it should. So for me it was easier and a better setup to just run two 38mm WG.
Actually the more power you make the less you need for a WG. Its really only when you run a big turbo on low boost where you need to bleed exhaust off before the turbo to keep it from building to much boost. If you dont have enough WG then youll have boost creep like op said about the old ON 3.
So then how do you go about picking springs for a dual wastegate setup? like I heard if you have a 10lb wg spring you can hold about 20lbs with a boost controller. so would you then get a 5 lb spring for both wastegates or put 10's in both?
Have some questions about the iat1 and iat2. I am about to tap my 01 intake for the iat2, and I am confused as to how people are doing this. Most of the pictures I see are of the sensor like this:
However, this way seems to ensure that my iat2 would never be able to be plugged in due to the position of the IAC motor.
Would this orientation be okay?
How do you ensure that it is sealed?
Also, since I am running a Slot style maf, do I need to have an IAT1 or can I delete that all together. Thanks guys
No need for a IAT1 sensor. Get a lightning IAT sensor and tap the top of the intake. Here is my setup.
Yes from my understanding you can double the WG spring with a boost controller. If you want 10 psi youll run two 10 psi WG springs. They will both open to hold 10 psi.
Made some more progress in the past few days. Got my timing cover back on with the open bolt holes sealed with black RTV.
The bolt holes on my headers didnt exactly line up with the head studs:
I just took my dremel and tungsten carbide bit and opened the holes up a bit. Not ideal but it should work fine. I am going to attempt to use the stock head studs and nuts along with new OEM exhaust manifold gaskets.
New gaskets and stuff:
IAT2 tapped and sealed in place with the o-ring and a little black RTV for extra insurance
Magnafuel regulator
Hat installed back in tank and feed line hooked up. Going to work on the wiring tomorrow. Should be pretty straight forward
Regulator installed on the rail
Torquing the lower intake down
New hat gasket. Waiting till my injectors get here and are installed before I put the hat on.
Hat ready to go on. This is where I need some help, I am deleting the EGR so I need to know what I need to keep, what goes where, and what can just be capped off.
Here is the hat as it was given to me off a 99 cobra
All of these hoses connected to the EGR/boost bypass shit on the drivers side of the eaton, can all this be trashed?
Where should this plug in to?
This Y block (above my hand) has one line going to the FRPS (which I am keeping), and the other line goes to all that egr shit shown earlier. Can I just cap off the EGR port?
Also, what the hell is this thing? looks like some sort of cannister with a vac cap on the bottom. Maybe a previous owner modded it?
More progress. Getting ready to install my MM bumpsteer kit
Ready to tap my oil pan. Talk about nerve racking punching a hole in your oil pan but it all went smoothly. Used a ton of grease. Also plan to run a little oil through the drain line before I drain the oil to help remove any shavings that I might have missed.
Guess I forgot to take pics of the fitting installed but you get the idea. Also got my passenger header bolted in (finger tight at the moment) and am working on the drivers side. MAN trying to get that dipstick in with the header unbolted is still a bitch.
More to come soon. Turbo should be here friday
The bolt holes on my headers didnt exactly line up with the head studs:
I just took my dremel and tungsten carbide bit and opened the holes up a bit. Not ideal but it should work fine. I am going to attempt to use the stock head studs and nuts along with new OEM exhaust manifold gaskets.
New gaskets and stuff:
IAT2 tapped and sealed in place with the o-ring and a little black RTV for extra insurance
Magnafuel regulator
Hat installed back in tank and feed line hooked up. Going to work on the wiring tomorrow. Should be pretty straight forward
Regulator installed on the rail
Torquing the lower intake down
New hat gasket. Waiting till my injectors get here and are installed before I put the hat on.
Hat ready to go on. This is where I need some help, I am deleting the EGR so I need to know what I need to keep, what goes where, and what can just be capped off.
Here is the hat as it was given to me off a 99 cobra
All of these hoses connected to the EGR/boost bypass shit on the drivers side of the eaton, can all this be trashed?
Where should this plug in to?
This Y block (above my hand) has one line going to the FRPS (which I am keeping), and the other line goes to all that egr shit shown earlier. Can I just cap off the EGR port?
Also, what the hell is this thing? looks like some sort of cannister with a vac cap on the bottom. Maybe a previous owner modded it?
More progress. Getting ready to install my MM bumpsteer kit
Ready to tap my oil pan. Talk about nerve racking punching a hole in your oil pan but it all went smoothly. Used a ton of grease. Also plan to run a little oil through the drain line before I drain the oil to help remove any shavings that I might have missed.
Guess I forgot to take pics of the fitting installed but you get the idea. Also got my passenger header bolted in (finger tight at the moment) and am working on the drivers side. MAN trying to get that dipstick in with the header unbolted is still a bitch.
More to come soon. Turbo should be here friday
Does anyone know the best way to extend the alternator wiring harness? The hellion instructions were no help
Also do you need a special tool to reinstall the harmonic balancer or do you just crank the thing down to a certain torque?
Also do you need a special tool to reinstall the harmonic balancer or do you just crank the thing down to a certain torque?
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Just a quick question since Im going the turbo route as well.. Is it necessary for me to get a 99/01 timing cover? I see people doing this and not sure if it really needs to be done?
I hear u don't have to , but I'd your selling your terminator swap parts the op would need your 03/04 timing cover
Nope, i just sold mine because its worth more and sold a complete eaton swap.
build is looking good chris
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