motorcraft 5W50 replaced by Mobil 1 by ford?

UnleashedBeast

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You don't need a supercharger for street use. Or recaros. Or 6piston brakes. Or any of the other performance parts ford puts on its "street" cars. So why not swap those too?
That logic is just dumb.

No sir, your rebuttals lack logic.

Why do people remove stock parts from a Mustang, install higher performing parts to make more power or handle better, but do not care if they are using an inferior lubricant? If you believe that Motorcraft 5W-50 is the best thing to use in this engine, then do not install any mods on your car. What Ford put on it from the Factory is best, right?

This thread isn't about "sufficient", it's about optimal performance. It's members like you who fail to see the difference between the two. Your comments are counter productive to other members who seek optimal part/lubricant selection for their cars, not wanting "sufficient". I fail to remember the last time I said, well....I will just buy this part because it's "good enough", especially when it comes to a $40k+ street performance car.
 

darreng505

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If you want to VOID YOUR WARRANTY by using a non-recommended oil because some yuppie chemist in a cheesy ferrari said so go right ahead :thumbsup: LMFAO, but I think people should be warned at the stupidity of doing that....

carry on.
 

darreng505

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I fail to remember the last time I said, well....I will just buy this part because it's "good enough", especially when it comes to a $40k+ street performance car.

Since you fail to remember, just read what you wrote a few posts above. LMAO.

Not a "bad" idea, just not the best choice. Ford knows MC 5W-50 shears, they want it too. 50 grade lubricants are not required for this application for street use, which is where most cars are used.

So your logic is this....Why put the recommended high-performance oil in the motor when you're just driving around town?

Retarded.
 

FKing1

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If you want to VOID YOUR WARRANTY by using a non-recommended oil because some yuppie chemist in a cheesy ferrari said so go right ahead :thumbsup: LMFAO, but I think people should be warned at the stupidity of doing that....

carry on.

As I posted above about the warranty issue, this is ridiculous.
A Dealer has no way of knowing what oil U are using.
 

UnleashedBeast

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LOL @ void your warranty comments.

as if the off road midpipe, tune, and complete BMR suspension hasn't already done that. HAHA!!!

Question, will it void the warranty when a fill of Motorcraft 5W-50 shears down to 5W-30? Just curious, because you state to keep the warranty intact....it must have 5W-50 in it.

Also, nothing more than a true synthetic 10W-40 is required for extended session road course racing. Just a FYI
 
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kcbrown

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Not a "bad" idea, just not the best choice. Ford knows MC 5W-50 shears, they want it too. 50 grade lubricants are not required for this application for street use, which is where most cars are used.

My point is that if 50 weight oil is too viscous (when the engine is warm) for the GT500 (and thus causes elevated lead levels in UOAs), then we should be seeing elevated levels of lead in the UOAs of those GT500s that are run with Motorcraft 5W50. If we do see that, then it follows that running them with Motorcraft 5W50 is not only not the best choice, it's actually a damaging choice in the long run (though said run may be long enough to put the engine beyond the warranty limits, which is probably Ford's primary concern).

If we don't see elevated lead levels in those UOAs, then doesn't it follow that it is something other than the high viscosity in RL's 5W50 that is causing the elevated lead levels in the UOAs from GT500s running with that oil?
 

kcbrown

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Not a "bad" idea, just not the best choice. Ford knows MC 5W-50 shears, they want it too. 50 grade lubricants are not required for this application for street use, which is where most cars are used.

Seems my messages need to be moderated prior to appearing, so I can't (yet) edit my last message for clarification, as it hasn't appeared at the time I write this.

The reason I'm concerned about this is that if RL 5W50 is causing excessive levels of lead wear in GT500s, then it's important to, firstly, know why it is and, secondly, to avoid using oils with the same causal characteristic.

Hence, the question about UOAs of GT500s that are using Motorcraft 5W50. I get that it shears to a lighter weight oil and that 50 weight isn't really required for street use, but because it starts off with (roughly) the same weight as RL 5W50, it follows that there should be some period of time during which the engine will be running with oil of (roughly) the same viscosity as what is supplied by RL under the same conditions.

I suppose if the MC oil shears to a lighter weight oil quickly enough, the lead wear will wind up being in the noise (if indeed viscosity is the root cause of said wear)...


If there is some other root cause of the lead wear in GT500s running with RL 5W50, then that surely needs to be identified and made known, no?
 

UnleashedBeast

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kcbrown,

I believe that it is viscosity causing higher lead ppm wear. Since Red Line will retain a 50 grade viscosity much longer, if not through the entire oil change interval, lead wear is higher. MC 5W-50 also shows higher lead wear that other 30 and 40 grade lubricants. It's lower on average than Red Line, likely because it shears out of the 50 grade viscosity rapidly.
 
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nycarpenter

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Bottom line is you feel 10-40 Amsoil is the best all around oil for the Boss. How about if the car is not tracked and more of a weekend car? I will actually take my boss on a few 500 mile trips a year.
 

UnleashedBeast

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Bottom line is you feel 10-40 Amsoil is the best all around oil for the Boss. How about if the car is not tracked and more of a weekend car? I will actually take my boss on a few 500 mile trips a year.

You can safely use 10W-30. Expect better fuel economy and cooler engine oil temps on your trip.
 

kcbrown

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kcbrown,

I believe that it is viscosity causing higher lead ppm wear. Since Red Line will retain a 50 grade viscosity much longer, if not through the entire oil change interval, lead wear is higher. MC 5W-50 also shows higher lead wear that other 30 and 40 grade lubricants. It's lower on average than Red Line, likely because it shears out of the 50 grade viscosity rapidly.

This is good to know, because it means that MC 5W-50 should probably also be avoided for the same reason, at least for the long term.

Based on the UOAs you've seen from the GT500s running MC 5W50, how many miles is it likely to be before the total lead wear becomes a concern? Wear is cumulative, so the wear numbers in the oil analyses should give an idea of this as long as one knows what the threshold is.

More specifically, the powertrain warranty I'll be faced with on my new 2014 GT with track package (which has been ordered but will take an unknown amount of time to arrive) is 5 years/60K miles. My suspicion is that running the MC 5W50 for the warranty period will work well enough even for track sessions, after which I can switch to something with better wear characteristics, but that depends on the actual lead wear rate and threshold.

I expect I'll be doing oil analyses from the very beginning, so I should get solid data about my car while on MC 5W50, and will be happy to post that up. It's likely to be a while, though, since I only ordered my car a week ago...
 

hori

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Mobil 1 5W50 is a true synthetic. I buy it from SVT here in Canada.

I am not doubting that amsoil isn`t good oil, however.... regardless of which forum you go on the amsoil kool-aid drinker always come off as the know it all petroleum engineer type that more or less says every other oil is trash and why you should switch to amsoil etc... NO DIG AT ANYONE , JUST SAYING

I used non synthetic oil in my race bike that bounced off the rev limiter 15,000 RPM all through the gears every race weekend and that bike is still going years later.

..AMSOIL.....now with OXYCLEAN...THE POWER OF OXYGEN.. :)

YMMV
 

UnleashedBeast

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Hori,

You must not know me very well. I praise all lubricants that excel. Pennzoil Ultra being one of them. The new API SN formulation is excellent.
 

hori

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You sir have alot of knowledge and passion about oils. You are also very helpful and quick to answer questions about motor oil. :beer:

it`s just when ever amsoil comes up regardless of which forum one visits it`s pretty much one sided in favor of amsoil. It`s easy to :poke: fun.
 

TRDon

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Mobil lost a lawsuit yeArs ago when they sued castrol for false marketing saing they had fully synthetic when in actuality it was not the case. Since then, mobil followed suit i had thoight and it isnt an actual true 100% synthetic. Am i wrong or remembering wrong?
 

UnleashedBeast

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Mobil lost a lawsuit yeArs ago when they sued castrol for false marketing saing they had fully synthetic when in actuality it was not the case. Since then, mobil followed suit i had thoight and it isnt an actual true 100% synthetic. Am i wrong or remembering wrong?

They did engage in a civil suit with Castrol. Mobil lost. The decision was made that hydrocracked petroleum was refined enough to be considered "synthetic", but not marketed as a true synthetic. No other countries agree with this decision. Only in the USA can highly refined petroleum be marketed as synthetic.

Very misleading, extremely political.
 

DA BOSS 13

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AMSOIL keeps coming up as tops in forums as it is good stuff. There are those in my 6.0 Powerstroke forums that swear it is the ONLY oil to use in the engine because of the way the 6.0's HEUI (Hydraulic Electronic Unit Injector) shears down motor oil. These injectors hydraulically push diesel fuel into the cylinder, and vary in pressure from 500 psi to 3200 psi, and up to 4000 RPM, this is literally tortuous to motor oil.

Many oils fare well, many do not. AMSOIL does exceptionally well in UOA testing, but I don't use it in the truck. My truck takes 4 GALLONS of oil. I would need bank financing with AMSOIL to fill it. In this case I use ROTELLA T-6 5W-40 synthetic which I can pick up in Walmart for $16-$20 a gallon, and it wears really well in testing with up to 7500 mile change intervals. I change the truck at 5K intervals.

My point is there are MANY good oil choices for the BOSS engine, use the oil that best suits your driving and use. I think for my use the AMSOIL 10W-40 is the best choice, I drive the car hard on mountain roads and change out at 5K intervals. The engine seems to love it.
 

UnleashedBeast

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DA BOSS 13,

Why would you pay up to $20.00 a gallon for oil that is "sufficient", having to change it every 7,500 miles.....when you can buy Amsoil DEO 5W-40 or Amsoil DME 15W-40 for $30.00 per gallon, yet only have to change the oil at 3 times the factory recommended interval, or one year, whichever occurs first?

You could save money and have better protection.

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