motorcraft 5W50 replaced by Mobil 1 by ford?

[Robot_trainer]

I have drag raced for many years (Mopars-440's, stroker 440's and 426 Hemi's). Rule of thumb was to use the lowest viscosity you could get away with. This meant a lot of experimenting (run a season, take it apart, inspect it and see where you are). That, plus you wanted to maintain enough oil pressure both for idle (valve train) and full RPM. From that I was able to use 10W30 most of the time (10W40 tops).

Those days are behind me so now I have a 2013 Shelby GT500 convertible. I bought it used from a friend that owns a Ford Dealer (buys one every year). It had one oil change at 1900km. I just did one at 7400km just before storing it. I've always used Amsoil and was disappointed that they did not offer a 5W50 so I used 5W50 Redline and a Ford Racing filter.

I'm reading with intrigue the various takes on what is good and not so good as far as oils, viscosities, etc. especially the Amsoil 10W40/10W30 take. The problem I have with the 10W40 which I assume is the AMO oil, is the excessive zinc and Phosphorus. Would the warranty not be void on the CATS should they fail if you used the AMO oil since it is not an SN rated oil (SL I believe). I'm sure viscosity wise it would be fine.

One of the big deals that was made about the 5.8 trinity engine was the problems the engineers were having with heat expulsion to the extent that they actually removed the grill. If this is a big fear, I'm kind of leary about 10W30 as far as thinning too much from the heat, although it would seem to be the best bet since the MC5W50 shears so much (maybe not to a 10W30 level), but it is an SL rated oil (Amsoil wise)

So is there anything out there that is a true POA oil that has a 10W40 viscosity and is SL rated? That would seem to be the best bet.

Also, for a strictly street driven car that is never tracked would th MC 5W50 not be a good alternative for this application provided it is changed out at 7000 miles?

Just my two cents.

 

[Robot_trainer]

I have drag raced for many years (Mopars-440's, stroker 440's and 426 Hemi's). Rule of thumb was to use the lowest viscosity you could get away with. This meant a lot of experimenting (run a season, take it apart, inspect it and see where you are). That, plus you wanted to maintain enough oil pressure both for idle (valve train) and full RPM. From that I was able to use 10W30 most of the time (10W40 tops).

Those days are behind me so now I have a 2013 Shelby GT500 convertible. I bought it used from a friend that owns a Ford Dealer (buys one every year). It had one oil change at 1900km. I just did one at 7400km just before storing it. I've always used Amsoil and was disappointed that they did not offer a 5W50 so I used 5W50 Redline and a Ford Racing filter.

I'm reading with intrigue the various takes on what is good and not so good as far as oils, viscosities, etc. especially the Amsoil 10W40/10W30 take. The problem I have with the 10W40 which I assume is the AMO oil, is the excessive zinc and Phosphorus. Would the warranty not be void on the CATS should they fail if you used the AMO oil since it is not an SN rated oil (SL I believe). I'm sure viscosity wise it would be fine.

One of the big deals that was made about the 5.8 trinity engine was the problems the engineers were having with heat expulsion to the extent that they actually removed the grill. If this is a big fear, I'm kind of leary about 10W30 as far as thinning too much from the heat, although it would seem to be the best bet since the MC5W50 shears so much (maybe not to a 10W30 level), but it is an SL rated oil (Amsoil wise)

So is there anything out there that is a true POA oil that has a 10W40 viscosity and is SL rated? That would seem to be the best bet.

Also, for a strictly street driven car that is never tracked would th MC 5W50 not be a good alternative for this application provided it is changed out at 7000 miles?

Just my two cents.

 

[darreng505]

...
As far as a lubrication expert for the boss as a whole, there isnt enough decernable difference in the interal mechanicals of the boss vs the coyote to say that the lubrication need are different.
....

Good luck with your warranty.

Ummm. Except the RPMs, crank, cams, pistons, intended use, engine temps, component materials and a bunch of other stuff a typical know-it-all-forum-lurker wouldn't consider before throwing their $0.02 at someone....:burn:

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Good luck with your warranty.

Those who care about warranty.....

Those who bought the car and couldn't afford to fix it in the event of failure.

The warranty on my 2014, void @ 73 miles. No F's were given on that day.

 

[Jebadias]

Good luck with your warranty.

Thankyou.

I'm glad that some people understand that just because somebody has different priorities than they do doesn't make them wrong.

 

[TRDon]

Ummm. Except the RPMs, crank, cams, pistons, intended use, engine temps, component materials and a bunch of other stuff a typical know-it-all-forum-lurker wouldn't consider before throwing their $0.02 at someone....:burn:

I said dicernable internal mechanicals, not parts. The inner workings are the same, the parts are different. I guess reading comprehention is something a typical know it all forum jerk wouldnt consider before thinking he was getting the better of someone on a forum :burn:

 

[TRDon]

Those who care about warranty.....

Those who bought the car and couldn't afford to fix it in the event of failure.

The warranty on my 2014, void @ 73 miles. No F's were given on that day.

For the most part, same here. I switched to atm as per your recomendation. I think for the way i drive it is a better fit. As far as Fs given about warranty, meh. Do i think they would void warranty because i used atm, hardly. If i had to put in a new engine because the #8 went, bummer. If they denied it because of oil choice, they would be pretty hard pressed to prove that.

I agree with the mgw being in a different league than the barton. When the shifter box is completely redesigned and replaced vs using existing parts on top of a stock shifter box and linkage, it puts it into a different category. Its like comparing the pushrod 5.0 to a mod 5.0. Just because both say 5.0 doesnt mean it is the same category. Just because it says shifter doesnt mean it is in the same category.

 

[hand-filer]

For the most part, same here. I switched to atm as per your recomendation. I think for the way i drive it is a better fit. As far as Fs given about warranty, meh. Do i think they would void warranty because i used atm, hardly. If i had to put in a new engine because the #8 went, bummer. If they denied it because of oil choice, they would be pretty hard pressed to prove that.

I agree with the mgw being in a different league than the barton. When the shifter box is completely redesigned and replaced vs using existing parts on top of a stock shifter box and linkage, it puts it into a different category. Its like comparing the pushrod 5.0 to a mod 5.0. Just because both say 5.0 doesnt mean it is the same category. Just because it says shifter doesnt mean it is in the same category.

The highly over rated Barton lasted all of 3 days in my unit and then went bye, bye via fleaBay. The MGW is superior in every way. I also find the same applies when comparing Amsoil to Motorcraft.
I don't lose sleep over warranty concerns, the TVS 2300 install took care of that.

 

[Noellenchris]

Somehow this thread has been derailed. :shrug: After reading a ton of post's, did anyone find a definitive answer about Motorcraft 5W50 being replaced by Mobil 1 by Ford? All this warranty talk has been discussed hundreds of times in almost all the auto forums, no need to reinvent that heated discussion.

Chris

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Somehow this thread has been derailed. :shrug: After reading a ton of post's, did anyone find a definitive answer about Motorcraft 5W50 being replaced by Mobil 1 by Ford? All this warranty talk has been discussed hundreds of times in almost all the auto forums, no need to reinvent that heated discussion.

Chris

Quick answer.....no

Mobil 1 5W-50 doesn't carry Ford's official replacement certification. However, no other lubricant does.

 

[darreng505]

I said dicernable internal mechanicals, not parts. The inner workings are the same, the parts are different. I guess reading comprehention is something a typical know it all forum jerk wouldnt consider before thinking he was getting the better of someone on a forum :burn:

Sorry, but "mechanicals" has everything to do with parts, how they operate, etc.
And the matter of oil takes into account far more than "discernible mechanicals", so your premise is wrong and I was clarifying. :shrug:

 

[TRDon]

I would like to know your version of why if i drive to work and back in a gt or in a boss with easy miles, what parts would require me to run 5-50 vs 5-20 in a boss. What is different in that sitation that would require the different viscosity. Serious question.

 

[blackgasguzzler]

I drive my car hard. I guess I shouldn't have put in the synthetic Motorcraft 5W-20 at my first oil change... I've always been an Amsoil fan. Maybe I'll switch over once I throw on the CJ intake.

I'm sure it won't shut up the bbq tick.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

I would like to know your version of why if i drive to work and back in a gt or in a boss with easy miles, what parts would require me to run 5-50 vs 5-20 in a boss. What is different in that sitation that would require the different viscosity. Serious question.

This guy is asking the right question!

TRDon, the short answer is simple. The Boss was built for track use, and Ford intends it to be used as such. Therefore, the recommendation of a very viscous lubricant which will maintain an acceptable High temp High shear viscosity when lubricant temps reach 300*F.

HT/HS rating is the viscosity of a lubricant at 150*C (302*F) and it gets this hot around the pistons at WOT.

Road Course racing doesn't require a manditory 50 grade. It depends on the HT/HS rating of the lubricant, fluid temps, and fluid pressure. True Synthetic 10W-40 lubricants have been getting the job done just fine in all Ford Modular engines on the road course. Oil pressure is perfect on the street with 30 grade lubricants in the Roadrunner.

 

[DA BOSS 13]

The highly over rated Barton lasted all of 3 days in my unit and then went bye, bye via fleaBay. The MGW is superior in every way. I also find the same applies when comparing Amsoil to Motorcraft.
I don't lose sleep over warranty concerns, the TVS 2300 install took care of that.

+1 all it takes as a machine tool designer is a good look at the two shifter's design, and it is definitely MGW that takes the design award. FORD chose Barton because I'm sure MGW wouldn't budge on price, cheapen the unit, or pick up production and reduce quality. I waited 2 weeks for my MGW shifter, I would do it again, it's worth every penny.