Most important suspension upgrade?

['14 Shelby]

I'd like to do the whole thing for improved handling/lowered ride along with improving traction but after dumping a wad of cash on the motor I'm a bit limited in terms of budget.

If you had to rank suspension mods what would you consider the single most important and why? also easiest in terms of DIY

UCA
Adj. Panhard
LCA's

Thanks

 

[Katy TX5.0]

UCA because it helps with wheel hop the most. Don't leave out shocks, they'll help your 60ft times.

 

['14 Shelby]

UCA because it helps with wheel hop the most. Don't leave out shocks, they'll help your 60ft times.

Yes I want shocks/struts as well, just trying to guage the easiest, most effective and cost effective mod first. The rest will follow by next spring

 

[blackbeast12]

1) watts link
2) uca with bracket
3) lca's
4) relocation brackets
5) upgraded springs
6) upgraded shocks and struts
7) upgraded sway bars

Ive done all these and the watts link has the biggest impact on overall handling.

 

[13BremboGT]

I'm just going to leave these here.......

2013 Mustang GT Brembo Package Wheel Hop 2 - YouTube

2013 Mustang GT Brembo Package Wheel Hop Cured 1 - YouTube

Just sayin....

 

['14 Shelby]

I'm just going to leave these here.......

2013 Mustang GT Brembo Package Wheel Hop 2 - YouTube

2013 Mustang GT Brembo Package Wheel Hop Cured 1 - YouTube

Just sayin....

Thanks
I had seen these and think the UCA would be first on my list, but wanted to what others said before I make a purchase.

How easy is it to do this without a lift?

 

['14 Shelby]

1) watts link
2) uca with bracket
3) lca's
4) relocation brackets
5) upgraded springs
6) upgraded shocks and struts
7) upgraded sway bars

Ive done all these and the watts link has the biggest impact on overall handling.

How much of difference did you see over the Pan Hard or Adj PHB? I just dont see spending $800-$900 for this when, if i'm lucky, will track it once a year.

 

[nosympathy]

Thanks
I had seen these and think the UCA would be first on my list, but wanted to what others said before I make a purchase.

How easy is it to do this without a lift?

I did my BMR UCA plus bracket on jack stands. Without air tools. Really the most annoying part is the bolt inside the car under the back seats. Has blue loctite and is torqued to 350 ft-lbs I believe. Took me pushing with all my might to probably budge it barely anything to then have another person bust it free cause my back was dying. Made me wish I had brought my impact wrench for the install.

 

[NickSezz]

How much of difference did you see over the Pan Hard or Adj PHB? I just dont see spending $800-$900 for this when, if i'm lucky, will track it once a year.

The Watts is not just for tracking the car. It WILL make a big difference on how the car feels overall during every day driving. An upgrade to the panhard bar does close to nothing in regard to improving the suspension in the rear. The main purpose of and adjustable PH bar is to recenter the axle after you lower the rear of the car with drop springs. When you lower the car, the rear axle will shift toward the driver side causing that wheel to stick out more. An axle that is not centered under the car is not optimal for handling either. This can be cured with the adjustable PHB, but a Watts link is adjustable as well.

All other parts mentioned are upgrades for the existing components that come on your car. An upgrade to the UCA, LCAs, spring/shocks ect. will firm things up and cure issues like wheel hop. The watts link goes a step further and changes the dynamics of the rear suspension.

If you are ever interested let me know and I will hook you up with a better deal than the 800-900 you stated.

This offer goes for anyone else too! :coolman:

Whiteline Mustang Watts Link - TeamJDM.com

 

[13BremboGT]

Thanks
I had seen these and think the UCA would be first on my list, but wanted to what others said before I make a purchase.

How easy is it to do this without a lift?

I did it (several times now) with just the rear wheels on ramps in the driveway. Hardest part is initially getting that big bolt loose under the rear seat. That joker is in there good! 1/2" impact gun set on full blast is your best friend there. If you do it on ramps like I did, do yourself a favor and chalk the front wheels with something so the car doesn't shift at all when you take the arm out. Makes getting the new one in MUCH easier.

 

[BMR Tech]

I'd like to do the whole thing for improved handling/lowered ride along with improving traction but after dumping a wad of cash on the motor I'm a bit limited in terms of budget.

If you had to rank suspension mods what would you consider the single most important and why? also easiest in terms of DIY

UCA
Adj. Panhard
LCA's

Thanks

Yes I want shocks/struts as well, just trying to guage the easiest, most effective and cost effective mod first. The rest will follow by next spring

Thanks
I had seen these and think the UCA would be first on my list, but wanted to what others said before I make a purchase.

How easy is it to do this without a lift?

How much of difference did you see over the Pan Hard or Adj PHB? I just dont see spending $800-$900 for this when, if i'm lucky, will track it once a year.

OP, it appears you have received a few answers that are pretty decent, but I feel that I should add some to it.

In order to increase handling, with a lowered ride....AND improve traction, you will need the following parts:

-Struts/Shocks
-Lowering Springs
-Adjustable F/R Sway-Bars
-Rear LCA/UCA and the respective Mounts

There are many ways to go about achieving your goals, but THE most important parts to increase handling performance are going to be the Springs, Shocks/Struts and Sway-Bars.

The Watts-Link modification is surely a good one, but putting that money into a set of adjustable struts and shocks will give you a bigger performance gain, in all honesty. The Watts-Link is good, but they do not increase handling as much as other parts I mentioned.

The most important modifications for traction will be the UCA/LCA and Mounts for each...as well as shock/strut settings and tire compound. (geometry is going to be crucial, as it is actually the single most important aspect to achieving maximum traction with an S197 Mustang)

For your list of parts, UCA, PHR and LCA.....they are all about equal, for various reasons... and are hard to put in order. If the car is already lowered, the order would be:

PHR
UCA
LCA

Upgrading the rear suspension on the S197 is typically the easiest and most cost effective way to increase overall performance, and is generally the first area that is modified.

I would not recommend putting a list together, and trying to pick out the parts that are most cost effective, and the single best. I recommend planning your entire suspension list, and purchasing each part/s as your budget allows. It is too complicated to pick and choose components based on importance, you will go crazy.

If there is anything I can help you with along the way, don't hesitate to ask me. I put together suspension, and only suspension packages each and every day of the week, it's all I do. :beer:

 

[5PNTSLO]

Anyone have any tips on aligning an adjustable UCA ?

 

[nosympathy]

Anyone have any tips on aligning an adjustable UCA ?

drive on alignment rack...really being kinda serious. lol. To get it 100% accurate you have to have the axle loaded and the car completely level. I just had the shop that did my alignment do the UCA as well. They set it to exactly -2 which has been perfect for me.

I wasn't about to fight trying to get the car completely level with the axle loaded with jack stands. Just wasn't worth it when it only cost me $35 to have it done.

 

[Dave5.0]

What's your BIGGER concern? Handling OR traction?

Nothing more needs to be said until that's answered.

 

[BMR Tech]

Anyone have any tips on aligning an adjustable UCA ?

Are you referring to setting your pinion angle? If so, do you have a 1-piece or 2-piece DS?

drive on alignment rack...really being kinda serious. lol. To get it 100% accurate you have to have the axle loaded and the car completely level. I just had the shop that did my alignment do the UCA as well. They set it to exactly -2 which has been perfect for me.

I wasn't about to fight trying to get the car completely level with the axle loaded with jack stands. Just wasn't worth it when it only cost me $35 to have it done.

I agree, it is always best to set the pinion angle on a drive-on style lift.

That being said, the vehicle does not really need to be exactly level, you are not technically using the ground/parallel to set your angles, you are referencing from the angle of the drivetrain.

 

[BMR Tech]

What's your BIGGER concern? Handling OR traction?

Nothing more needs to be said until that's answered.

Luckily, you can improve both on this S197 Chassis.

Of course, if maximizing one or the other, you will suffer "some" in one, or the other.

The majority of S197 Owners can modify their cars to their liking with off the shelf parts that are rather inexpensive, and have great results for most driving conditions. The smaller percentage who compete in a specific style of racing, well, those are the people who need to strictly focus on their intended purpose.

Technology has come a LONG way, and the ability to adjust geometry on these cars with off the shelf parts, makes them a very solid platform for hobbyists looking for a little of everything. A good example is Shaun@AED having suspension parts that were more catered towards corners than straight-line....yet he drove the car to some VERY impressive times at the drag-strip, with a manual trans to boot.

 

['14 Shelby]

What's your BIGGER concern? Handling OR traction?

Nothing more needs to be said until that's answered.

I guess my question should be framed as ... "what's a quick hit (easy & inexpensive) I can do to my suspension that improves traction, yet will be a piece I can still use to improve with some additional mods?"

I want to improve traction and am (im)patiently waiting for my new rims. these should help a good amount with the Nitto DR's. Given that set up I was hoping to start on the suspension mods to compliment this. With all the different threads around here it can get confusing. Also there are quite a few other with similar power mods that I thought could/would chime in with decent advice and I think some have.

I really want to have the thing handle better without sacrificing too much on the traction end. I realize I may have to give/take but with nice rear meats I'll be happier hooking up.

Between this and one other thread I had started I think I'll just hang tight then make all upgrades at once.

Thanks fellas

 

[saunupe1911]

Struts and shocks hands down along with springs to lower your center of gravity. These 2 upgrades totally transform the handling of the car. You aren't drag racing everyday right? so LCA and UCA only benefit you short term if you hammer it all time.

 

[Dave5.0]

I guess my question should be framed as ... "what's a quick hit (easy & inexpensive) I can do to my suspension that improves traction, yet will be a piece I can still use to improve with some additional mods?"

I want to improve traction and am (im)patiently waiting for my new rims. these should help a good amount with the Nitto DR's. Given that set up I was hoping to start on the suspension mods to compliment this. With all the different threads around here it can get confusing. Also there are quite a few other with similar power mods that I thought could/would chime in with decent advice and I think some have.

I really want to have the thing handle better without sacrificing too much on the traction end. I realize I may have to give/take but with nice rear meats I'll be happier hooking up.

Between this and one other thread I had started I think I'll just hang tight then make all upgrades at once.

Thanks fellas

Lots of misinformation in this thread. :rolling:

If you do rear LCAs and UCA it will help traction in a HUGE way to eliminate (or 99% reduce) wheel hop and keep the rear more planted, but will do VERY little in helping the actual cornering ability of the car.

If you want something that will be well suited for both but more on a handling side, do a good aftermarket damper/spring combo. Koni STR.T with Steeda Sport springs and GT500 strut mounts. The WEAKEST link in the stock suspension is the absolutely pitiful stock dampers and springs. They are valved like a floating saucer and the spring rates promote a ton of body roll. Get rid of those first!

Once that is done, focus on either an adjustable Panhard bar (Love Freedom Racing with Spherical ends!) or if you can afford it a Watts Link. This helps center the rear axle with the car and allows the rear end to rotate properly and also promotes ridigidty and stiffness over bumps.

If that isn't very important, the control arms route is a good way to go. The LCA relocation brackets really help with wheel hop AND the way your car exits a corner. Much more planted and neutral.

HOWEVER, whatever you throw at it, if you plan on keeping the stock dampers and springs, DONT expect the car to handle very well.

 

[BMR Tech]

Very well said, and mirrors what has been stated previously about the dampers and springs. One thing I like about the newer cars is that the sway-bars are fairly decent on the 2011+.

Most people can just do a damper/spring kit, and it will suit their handling needs.

Speaking in general, I absolutely agree about the UCA/LCA not being as crucial a step in improving the cornering ability of the car, but they do provide benefit. A more stable rear axle is key to maximizing the overall performance of any RWD platform.

One thing that people often overlook is the importance of Rear control arms (upper and lower). These cars have very soft, pliable and "stretchy" rear bushings. When monitoring the geometry and alignment of the rear suspension under hard-cornering, the thrust angle goes wacky, due to the amount of flex allowed by the stock LCA/UCA bushings. The axle housing is twisting and shifting in multiple directions, this gets even worse when cornering and applying load to the engine simultaneously (accelerating with wheels not straight)

All of that being said, a car without traction is a car that is not a good performing car; that's a fact. Cornering, straight line, and daily driving.:beer: