Mild Terminator Upgrades

Almarktool

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Hello all, and thank you to those who have helped in past with fuel tank questions,
So I would like to do some simple mods to the 2004 Cobra and not jeopardize the motor,
or put any undo stress where it is not needed.
I am all stock now. I would like to keep stock fuel pumps for now, I currently have a
Bama subscription for my SCT Tuner
so with that in mind
Car Has MM full length Rails, MGW shifter , Tires , Wheels , Radio .

I was looking to do
2.7 supercharger Pulley - Have on hand
Metco Idler Pulley kit and tensioner - Have on hand
JLT CAI _ gen 2 hi boost or std ?
Magna Flow X pipe with cats - Have on hand
Do I need to switch to BA-2600 ? I have a BA-3000 lying around but is prob overkill ?
Afco Dual fan Heat Exchanger
170 degree thermostat - Have on hand
1 step colder plugs NGK TR6-V - Have on hand

I can do Accufab throttle body and or injectors if you say so but
do not want to have to deal with fuel system at this time

Does this all sound like it will work together as a package ?
Just trying to keep it simple and make it so I can do the mods myself
and upload a new tune

Thanks alot for reading and answering if you can,
yes I have used the search function and it is all very
confusing with the endless amount if possibilities

Happy Holidays
Mark
 

01yellercobra

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Skip the Bama tune. Your car will appreciate it.

Run the 2.7 upper, JLT short ram (the one that puts the filter in the engine bay, Afco heat exchanger, and the 170. If you don't have the Accufab set up you'll still make decent power. Those will wake the car up and make it fun. You should be able to keep the stock MAF and fuel system with that. Your tuner will tell you for sure.

Oh, and get a wideband if you don't have one. None of these mods will put any undo stress in anything.
 

P49Y-CY

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it's definitely a tried and true, well-proven package.

i've had a 2.8 upper pulley on the stock eaton for over 15 years/90k miles and it still runs great. the heat exchanger, maf, elbow, throttle body, and entire fuel system are all stock. it has aftermarket idler pullies, spark plugs, and thermostat, air filter, and x-pipe/catback. it makes about 450/450 to the wheels and is a blast to drive.

get it dyno tuned.
 

Almarktool

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Thank you everyone for answering, Just wanted to confirm the accufab wont do anything ? Money is not the issue. Just keeping it simple with factory fuel system is the goal Oh. I have a k&n air filter on it now should i just leave that or still upgrade to a jlt cai ?

Thanks again
Mark
 

LS WUT

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Thank you everyone for answering, Just wanted to confirm the accufab wont do anything ? Money is not the issue. Just keeping it simple with factory fuel system is the goal Oh. I have a k&n air filter on it now should i just leave that or still upgrade to a jlt cai ?

Thanks again
Mark
An upgrade is always a plus. I’d go with the JLT.
 

CobraBob

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You won't see a significant bump in power with the Accufab TB. Some have experienced sticking plates and hanging idle with it. I would bet most go with the Accufab because it's prettier than the factory TB. I was one of those. LOL. Watch for belt slip with that 2.7 upper pulley; the 4-piece Metco idler kit will certainly help with increased belt wrap. Metco makes both a single-bearing and dual-bearing set. The duel-bearing set is for more severe duty, and recommended if you can swing the extra cost.
 

Almarktool

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Thanks Bob, I got a good used set of single bearing ones for now, Do u think I should get bigger pulley than the 2.7 ??
 

01yellercobra

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You'll be fine with the 2.7 and a snub idler. Just don't get crazy on the belt tension.

You might get a couple hp from the Accufab as PD blowers are sensitive to inlet restriction. But unless you want the polished look I'd stick with the stocker.
 

SsnakeSVT03

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Hello all, and thank you to those who have helped in past with fuel tank questions,
So I would like to do some simple mods to the 2004 Cobra and not jeopardize the motor,
or put any undo stress where it is not needed.
I am all stock now. I would like to keep stock fuel pumps for now, I currently have a
Bama subscription for my SCT Tuner
so with that in mind
Car Has MM full length Rails, MGW shifter , Tires , Wheels , Radio .

I was looking to do
2.7 supercharger Pulley - Have on hand
Metco Idler Pulley kit and tensioner - Have on hand
JLT CAI _ gen 2 hi boost or std ?
Magna Flow X pipe with cats - Have on hand
Do I need to switch to BA-2600 ? I have a BA-3000 lying around but is prob overkill ?
Afco Dual fan Heat Exchanger
170 degree thermostat - Have on hand
1 step colder plugs NGK TR6-V - Have on hand

I can do Accufab throttle body and or injectors if you say so but
do not want to have to deal with fuel system at this time

Does this all sound like it will work together as a package ?
Just trying to keep it simple and make it so I can do the mods myself
and upload a new tune

Thanks alot for reading and answering if you can,
yes I have used the search function and it is all very
confusing with the endless amount if possibilities

Happy Holidays
Mark
Stay away from the Bama crap. Find a reputable tuner who tunes these cars and your car will live a good long life with those mods suggested.

Also, it would be wise to upgrade those 20 year old fuel pumps. Seen far too many fail in the last little while. Whatever you do, DO NOT run a BAP on those 20 year old pumps. I’d look into upgrading fuel pumps.
 

blwn89gt

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1000000% find a reputable tuner and do it that way. Some people like doing it on the dyno, others will do mail tunes and data log. As said above also look into new pumps. If you ever plan on going bigger blower then check out FORE. They have really good stuff and you can expand on it. I went full return with a dual hat set up from fore but I also run a 2.9 whipple on my car. I had a ported Eaton before that and I was lucky enough to use 60lb injectors and a boost a pump. But this was back in 2013.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
 
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CobraBob

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Thanks Bob, I got a good used set of single bearing ones for now, Do u think I should get bigger pulley than the 2.7 ??
If it was me, I'd go with a 2.76 or 2.8. I used a 2.9 and then a 2.8. Or an upper/lower combo for the same target boost. Installing a larger lower pulley isn't as easy as swapping to a smaller up, which is why many choose to just do a smaller upper. A 2.7 is going to challenge belt slip, so you're going to have to pay attention to slippage. That's the reason why with a pulley under 3.0" you have to go with an auxiliary idler to increase belt wrap. The extra belt wrap helps to negate the belt slippage resulting from the faster spinning smaller pulley. I'm not saying a 2.7 won't work. Just saying it isn't the best chose (IMO) due to the greater chance of belt slippage. You're also over-spinning the Eaton so increases in power are reduced at that point, as well as pushing the recommended max of 15 lbs. boost with a non-ported Eaton. Review this pulley chart from my Terminator FAQs and note the RPMs.

You do have the 2.7 on hand, so you can give it a shot.
 
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HPLouis

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If it was me, I'd go with a 2.76 or 2.8. I used a 2.9 and then a 2.8. Or an upper/lower combo for the same target boost. Installing a larger lower pulley isn't as easy as swapping to a smaller up, which is why many choose to just do a smaller upper. A 2.7 is going to challenge belt slip, so you're going to have to pay attention to slippage. That's the reason why with a pulley under 3.0" you have to go with an auxiliary idler to increase belt wrap. The extra belt wrap helps to negate the belt slippage resulting from the faster spinning smaller pulley. I'm not saying a 2.7 won't work. Just saying it isn't the best chose (IMO) due to the greater chance of belt slippage. You're also over-spinning the Eaton so increases in power are reduced at that point, as well as pushing the recommended max of 15 lbs. boost with a non-ported Eaton. Review this pulley chart from my Terminator FAQs and note the RPMs.

You do have the 2.7 on hand, so you can give it a shot.
Thank you!!! I've been looking for your FAQ page and the old link I bookmarked was broken. I was going to ask about it and saw this post.
 

stangfreak

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Thanks Bob, I got a good used set of single bearing ones for now, Do u think I should get bigger pulley than the 2.7 ??
I dont post here anymore. Kind of tired of the internet car forums. But saw this post and wanted to help you out. As my good friend jimmy vaccaro said, the GOD FATHER of mustangs, may he rest in peace........... Beware of the slippery slope. If you are very picky with your car and want it to drive like stock, dont go crazy with the mods. People will tell you, there cars drive like stock with 800rwhp. They forgot what stock feels like. Trust me.

2.80 upper
steeda cold air......this retains the STOCK INTAKE. which I prefer.
catback
short throw shifter
heat exchanger
tune. Done. This is all you need.

Do NOT waste your money on the accufab. The accufab was designed for the 2000 cobra R. The throttle cam on the accufab does not match with the stock one. It sits lower and more aggressive. This in turn, creates a SHORTER THROTTLE FEEL. You will notice a little more response in throttle, but, with more headaches. At the shop I go to, when the accufab came out, we noticed the throttle cable would shift over at a certain throttle point, and skip. we think that is why the throttle felt shorter. It wasnt grabbing. You will also need to play with the idle screw and tune bc the throttle body will stick AND HAVE HIGH IDLE.

The accufab had so many problems, back in the day, a member on here, created a accufab throttle body kit to fix these issues. It brought back the pedal height, which made drivability and feel way better. I bought the kit but ended up selling it to JUICED46, dave. Another 2003 cobra legend. A pioneer.

The only throttle body that fixed this issue was the gen 2 billetflow. The throttle cam was revised., It sat higher, pushing the accel pedal back to STOCK location.

some people say they have luck with the accufab. ehh. whatever. If your picky, stick with the stocker.

The 2.80 upper is a good choice. Remember, after a certain point, the eaton will just keep producing heat. The hp will remain the same, but the tq will go up when overspun. BUT, the higher tq numbers that you see with a aggressive pulley combo, is SHORT LIVED. Yea, it looks cool on the dyno with two fans. But on the street, it doesn't work that way. All you will do is create more heat and slippage.

I am not a guru, but I have owned my cobra since august of 2003. I have spoken and met a lot of pioneers in the 03 cobra world. I learned from their blunders and mistakes. well sort of lol. You know what I mean. Good luck.
 

01yellercobra

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Accufab has since fixed the cruise control issue. I was set to fix that on my buddies car, but everything lined up fine. Mine did stick, but I never had high idle. A couple tweaks fixed everything.

But as mentioned a few times, stick with the stocker unless you want every last horsepower.
 

MG0h3

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My car had an accufab on it when I bought it in 2013.

Still there. Zero issues, including cruise.

It’s on a Whipple. Not sure if the issues were on eatons


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
 

01yellercobra

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Mine had the Accufab when I bought it in 2015. Had the slight sticking and cruise control took a few seconds to engage. I did the spacer trick and adjusted the stop. It's been fine since then. This was both on the Eaton and Whipple.
 

2003RedfireVert

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I went from a 2.8 pulley stock Eaton setup, to a ported Eaton setup, to a 2.8KB all within a year and half. My 2.8KB drives the exact same as it did on 2.8 pulley until you lay into it. I’m almost at 700wh.

My Accufab is fine but it isn’t on an Eaton. Never stuck or had an idle hang. Drives great.

The main question in this thread has been answered over and over again. A mild setup using stock pumps/injectors is perfectly fine and will be no where close to potentially hurting anything engine and transmission wise. Get it tuned properly. If you want more, buy once cry once….the setup you are asking about will be just fine…enjoy it and, again, get it properly tuned.
 

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