Malcolm's Teksid Cobra rebuild thread

MalcolmV8

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Malcolm this one has got me scratching my head. I weighted my front cross member at 53 lbs which would mean yours is at a negative 17.

Sorry I meant the whole package. So chrome moly k-member, lower a-arms, coil overs
Vs
Stock k-member, stock lower a-arms, stock springs.

In fairness I didn't weigh it. UPR states on their website that combo is 70 lbs lighter.

Thanks for the other info. I haven't decided what I'm going to do yet. Probably just align it and drive a bit. Winter's almost here and I'll have plenty of time to think about it.
 

98 Saleen Cobra

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My Griggs Coil overs make zero noise as well. It's the cheaper stuff that makes noise I've noticed..
 

SlowSVT

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My Griggs Coil overs make zero noise as well. It's the cheaper stuff that makes noise I've noticed..

My MM 4 hole CC plates came with 4 thick washers to space it off the shock tower. I'm not sure what their purpose is perhaps someone can straighten me out on this one. I plan on mounting the CC plates directly sock tower. Everything is in tension on the CC plate as it holds-up the weight of the car. Mounting the CC flush to the top of the shock tower having the sheet metal sandwich with the lower CC plate will spread the load around a larger area on the shock tower which should reduce the stress over what the spacers would impose on the metal and any "oil canning" that may take place. That may be one of the sources of creaking. That's kinda the way I'm seeing it.

Do the Griggs CC plates use spaces as well or do the fit flush to the shock tower?
 

98 Saleen Cobra

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I run MM Caster Camber plates, They are a 4 bolt plate vise 3 from Griggs.. I also had them before Griggs even made CC plates lol. I don't have my car in front of me or I'd go and look for you.. Let me see if I have a pic in my photobucket for you.
 

98 Saleen Cobra

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It looks like i have spacers..
20140309_135828_zps9xdgjvzf.jpg

20140309_121943_zpsvxvwbdec.jpg

IMG_20130718_193020_251_zps99faf4d0.jpg
 
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SlowSVT

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Yup, that's the same deal as I have

Malcolm, you should try removing the spacers from your CC plates and see if it reduces the noise. You will lose your alignment in the process but it may be worth a try.
 

MalcolmV8

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Yup, that's the same deal as I have

Malcolm, you should try removing the spacers from your CC plates and see if it reduces the noise. You will lose your alignment in the process but it may be worth a try.

My alignment is completely hosed anyways. Going in tomorrow to fix it. Getting the 5 year alignment. They're going to love me because I'll be back in every time I make a change to get it tweaked lol.

Something I've noticed with this new build. The car heats up incredibly fast now. It used to take forever for coolant to come up to temps. Like you could drive a few miles from your house on cold start up before you saw the coolant gauge all the way up.
Same coolant mix, same radiator, same thermostat. The huge difference is the aluminum block now. I'm assuming in the past you'd see such a long warm up time as you were bringing the cast iron up to temp. I can't think of what else it could be. I love it though. Car looses heat quickly too. Park at a store for a bit, come back out and coolant temp is down quite a bit. Rather nice.
 

SlowSVT

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My alignment is completely hosed anyways. Going in tomorrow to fix it. Getting the 5 year alignment. They're going to love me because I'll be back in every time I make a change to get it tweaked lol.

Something I've noticed with this new build. The car heats up incredibly fast now. It used to take forever for coolant to come up to temps. Like you could drive a few miles from your house on cold start up before you saw the coolant gauge all the way up.
Same coolant mix, same radiator, same thermostat. The huge difference is the aluminum block now. I'm assuming in the past you'd see such a long warm up time as you were bringing the cast iron up to temp. I can't think of what else it could be. I love it though. Car looses heat quickly too. Park at a store for a bit, come back out and coolant temp is down quite a bit. Rather nice.

No surprise there. Aluminum soaks-up every BTU it can get it greedy hands on. Cast iron: "not so much" which is one of it's advantages. Same thing in cool down.
 

sdleo26

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Awesome build thread... for those interested in the jax max lift , checkout Costco, got mine on sale delivered for 1800, without sale they have for $1999
 

MalcolmV8

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Awesome build thread... for those interested in the jax max lift , checkout Costco, got mine on sale delivered for 1800, without sale they have for $1999

That's an awesome deal. Back when I was looking Costco was much more than that.
 

MalcolmV8

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After driving around for a few days I can report the killer chiller works. Around 65 ~ 70F out the other day I saw 120F average IAT2 temps. My car used to run mid 130s all the time and after hard pulls it would go to 140, 150 and even 160+ in really hot summer. Granted its cooler now but after making a pull through the gears it's hitting a peak of 134 ~ 138 and in less than 60 seconds I'm in the 115 ~ 120 range again.
On a cooler night like tonight I was seeing IAT2 temps of 110 ~ 120. Funny when you decelerate with the throttle closed IAT2s in the 130s pretty quick. Lightly press on the gas pedal and immediately in the 110 ~ 120 range again. Fun to watch.

I removed the heat exchanger completely. Bad idea. The A/C quit working at one point and in less than 2 miles I was at 150F plus IAT2. Pulled over and popped hood and let it cool before coolant started puking all over.
Another time I wasn't so lucky and coolant pushed past the coolant reservoir lid and sprayed all over my engine and windshield (hood wasn't on car).

So I compared IAT2 temps with a local GT500 with a built motor running a big KB blower. He has the Killer Chiller and left his heat exchanger in the bumper. In fact he has a monster aftermarket heat exchanger and his IAT2 temps are practically identical to mine. Average cruising, after pulls etc. Only he never has to worry about forgetting to turn on A/C or if it cycles out for a minute due to excess pressures or any other reason he's not overheating.

With that I'm putting my heat exchanger back and leaving it inline. Apparently it doesn't heat up the fluid up enough to be of any concern but the upsides of having it are big.

Car's running better and better each day.

[video=youtube;qDkmGbbYDIQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDkmGbbYDIQ[/video]
 

SlowSVT

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Malcolm, congrats on your build the car sounds great. This one of the nicest Terminators in existence. Aside from the occasional polishing duties it appears your just about finished I don't think there is much more you can do to your car it's all there. Project complete, done, perfecta undo, no stone unturned, magneefeeco, finished, signed, sealed, delivered!, "the eagle has landed", it's in the "out" tray, high 5, nada more to do. Other then some odds & ends now you can relax, kick your feet up in the loving room in the satisfaction on a job well done! Perhaps catch up on some work around the house you've been putting off :burnout:


........... sometimes I really hate myself :nonono:
 

MalcolmV8

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Pulled bumper and killer chiller etc out and re-installed the heat exchanger inline. Of course it's cooler temps out now so it's hard to pass judgement but I see no decrease in the KC's efficiency.
Driving around with AC off showed IAT2 temps of 135 ~ 150. Not even going WOT lol. Mostly in the 130s because it's cooler out. The 150s this weekend was just from closed throttle decel.
Turned A/C on quickly saw IAT2 temps of 110 ~ 120. It was only about 60F out though.

IMG_6620.JPG


Kind of a neat shot of the KC unit tucked in the bumper insulation

IMG_6621.JPG


IMG_6623.JPG


Right before putting the heat exchanger back

IMG_6617.JPG
 

raym5_0

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Nice work as usual.

Your IAT2's seem a little high, but its probably cause your pushing more than 20psi like mine. I see mine hit 110-115* near end of 4th gear with throttle closed, and drop back down usually to around 89-91* after the system recovers. I have to see how mine changes with the IC tank in the trunk & no HE, I probably regret not having HE as backup. :xpl:
 

MalcolmV8

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Nice work as usual.

Your IAT2's seem a little high, but its probably cause your pushing more than 20psi like mine. I see mine hit 110-115* near end of 4th gear with throttle closed, and drop back down usually to around 89-91* after the system recovers. I have to see how mine changes with the IC tank in the trunk & no HE, I probably regret not having HE as backup. :xpl:

Yeah im running much lower boost. But my IAT2s are usually in the 80s when cruising.

I have no idea how you guys achieve that in normal cruise. I used the industrial R134a and added a can of that extra cooling additive (forget name now by heart). Approximately 50/50 coolant / water mix with a bottle of redline water wetter.

I have every square inch of my lines sealed in that heat wrap insulation stuff. Both supercharger fluid lines as well as the A/C lines themselves. My intercooler tank as you can see is insulated pretty darn good with neoprene too.

I even ceramic coated my lower intake manifold in hopes of stopping radiant heat from the block and heads heating my intake charge.

Of course I've added my heat exchanger inline now but as mentioned above I saw no real difference in temps since doing it. Likely due to the cooler weather outside right now.

BTW I compared my car with two other local guys. One has a KB 2.2 (heat exchanger deleted) and the other has a KB 4.2 on a GT500 (heat exchanger in place in line). We all three have very similar numbers.

The only thing I can think of is your Whipple 2.3s run that much cooler which is great. Another local guy has a 2.3 TVS and his IAT2 numbers are not far off from my Killer Chiller numbers and he has no killer chiller. Just amazing how much heat some of these blowers put out.
 
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