MACA work on my car day???

[FNsweetS3]

Are you planning to replace the flywheel while you are at it? I love my Spec 3. It chattered for about 1500 miles, common for them, but now is perfect.

Should I .... is it better if I do?

 

[wheelhopper]

If I were you I would get the Spec3, that is what I have had for a while and I am very happy with it. The 3+ is nice and can handle more power, but it is also more $. The regular 3 can handle your power and still have room for you to grow. I would also get a new flywheel when you do this and a factory Ford throwout bearing. Not shure how the Spec bearings are now, but they used to chirp very shortly after install.

Get Jon Lund to send you an email tune for your mods when you do the ported blower swap. That way you will have a safe tune for driving it untill you get to a dyno. If you're going to get the ported blower, TB,plenum and a 2.7 pulley there are some other things you may need to get the full potential from your new combo.

Bigger injectors
upgraded MAF
Boost-a-pump
Auxillary idler pulley, to get some belt wrao around that 2.7

 

[FISHTAIL]

You calling ME boy?


I have a Yard full of Dick, a bucket full of balls, and enough hair on my ASS to weave an Indian blanket.... who you calling BOY:shrug:

Ken

:beer::beer:

Um...lol, that's gross.

Ok.... so here is what is going on:

While at MIR the other day.... I destroyed my clutch so I need to replace that. 04yellowcobra and TGS2 have volunteered to come up and help me do it in my garage. I am actually excited to see all of this get done in my garage... my wife says that the garage is too pretty to mess up

Looking at the Spec Stage 3+.... what do you guys think? I am not a mechanic... or a racers... so it is all Greek to me.

Recommendations (I want to order this tonight)


Along with that... I am in talks with Stiegmeier to do a Stage 5+ port for the Blower, TB and PL with a 2.7 pulley.

I know I will have to get it tuned but... will it be safe to drive it the 30 miles from my house to Dillsburg to get it tuned.... or can a new tune be rewritten with the Diablo to get me to Dillsburg.... then dyno tune? Again I am not a mechanic... so my stupidity may be showing.

If all goes well - ish I would like to try to do all of this at the same time so I can get the car up pretty quick.

Anyway.... toss out opinions!

I will put a vote in for the 3+. It's an awesome clutch, it is more than the 3, but it has much lighter pedal pressure as well. I would recommend replacing the flywheel while you are at it...it's more money, but worth doing while you are there.

You could put the mods on without a tune and drive it safely, IF you stay out of boost. Safest bet would be to follow Doug's suggestion of getting it tuned via mail order before driving though.

 

[04yellowcobra]

Clutch grocery list:

Necessary:
Pilot Bearing
Throw out bearing
Clutch (I think I would stay with a stage 3)
Call spec or fidanaza to see if we can just replace the stock wear surface in the stock flywheel. If not then have the stock one resurfaced or buy a new flywheel.

Optional:
new flywheel bolts
new pressure plate bolts
26 spline input shaft (requires different clutch disc)
steel retainer
LDC head cooling mod
Quadrant (if you don't have already)
Fire wall adjuster (if you don't have already)

As for the blower upgrade, you will need at the bare minimum a boost a pump and MAF extender to get the stock equipment enough air and fuel to keep up with the ported blower. A lower pulley will make the ported blower really shine as well.

 

[FISHTAIL]

Clutch grocery list:

Necessary:
Pilot Bearing
Throw out bearing
Clutch (I think I would stay with a stage 3)
Call spec or fidanaza to see if we can just replace the stock wear surface in the stock flywheel. If not then have the stock one resurfaced or buy a new flywheel.

Optional:
new flywheel bolts
new pressure plate bolts
26 spline input shaft (requires different clutch disc)
steel retainer
LDC head cooling mod
Quadrant (if you don't have already)
Fire wall adjuster (if you don't have already)

As for the blower upgrade, you will need at the bare minimum a boost a pump and MAF extender to get the stock equipment enough air and fuel to keep up with the ported blower. A lower pulley will make the ported blower really shine as well.

Agreed (Although I still prefer the + for the lighter pedal pressure...but that's purely personal preference). The new clutch should come with the throwout bearing though.

I'd also just order a new flywheel since it will expedite the process, unless you can find a machine shop to re-surface the stock one while you wait.

 

[TRBO VNM]

Clutch grocery list:

Necessary:
Pilot Bearing
Throw out bearing
Clutch (I think I would stay with a stage 3)
Call spec or fidanaza to see if we can just replace the stock wear surface in the stock flywheel. If not then have the stock one resurfaced or buy a new flywheel.

Optional:
new flywheel bolts
new pressure plate bolts
26 spline input shaft (requires different clutch disc)
steel retainer
LDC head cooling mod
Quadrant (if you don't have already)
Fire wall adjuster (if you don't have already)

As for the blower upgrade, you will need at the bare minimum a boost a pump and MAF extender to get the stock equipment enough air and fuel to keep up with the ported blower. A lower pulley will make the ported blower really shine as well.

you don't need to replace the flywheel bolts since they are not torq to yield. I agree on the pp bolts since they are a torq to yield.

I would highly recommend the firewall adjuster and quadrant. I agree on the BAP and MAFia, add in the wire upgrade as well. I would do the LDC freeplay kit as well. cheap mod.

And as wheelhopper said, ford racing TOB even though the spec clutch comes with their TOB.

the stock flywheel can be resurfaced, but I would strongly recommend against it. at first I thought it was a good idea if it can be done. not all can be done, it depends on how hot your flywheel got and if the rivets have started pulling through. I have had a 50% hit rate on whether they can be resurfaced or not. I have also seen 2 resurfaced flywheels end up having the teeth on the flywheel start rattling. so imo, the stockers can only handle so much and from what I could tell after friday Chris, I would go ahead and invest in a new flywheel. I would go with the fidanza. it has a replaceable friction plate and the flywheel and friction plate are cheaper than the spec. I have done both of those flywheels with great success over the past few yrs.

make sure you remove the clutch fork pivot ball and throw a couple washers behind it. this helps put the other end of the fork farther away from the pressure plate. there have been known cases after putting in new clutches and flywheels that when the clutch is fully depressed, the fork rubs the pressure plate. putting the washers behind the pivot ball will eliminate this potential issue.

let me know if you have any other questions.

Agreed (Although I still prefer the + for the lighter pedal pressure...but that's purely personal preference). The new clutch should come with the throwout bearing though.

I'd also just order a new flywheel since it will expedite the process, unless you can find a machine shop to re-surface the stock one while you wait.

my stage 3 is very light. I wouldn't bother with the 3+.

 

[FNsweetS3]

Here is what I am getting ready to order.... does this list sound good?



SPEC Stage 3 Clutch (Mid 01-04 Mustang GT, 99-04 Cobra, and 03-04 Mach 1) $324.99

SPEC Billet Aluminum Flywheel - 8 Bolt (99-Mid 01 GT, 96-04 Cobra, and 03-04 Mach $334.99

Steeda Clutch Adjuster Kit (96-04) $99.99

Total: $759.97


Stage 3 Clutch
The Stage 3 Clutch includes the high clamp pressure plate, the 6 puck carbon semi-metallic friction with high torque sprung hub and disc assembly, as well as the bearing and tool kits. And if you are replacing your clutch it is also a good idea to replace your Clutch Cable and Quadrant at the same time to prolong the life of your new Clutch.


Fly wheel
All SPEC units are rebuildable and feature a replaceable steel friction plate that is made from a friction-enhancing steel metal specially formulated for optimum clutch bedding and holding power, so this just might be the last flywheel you will ever have to buy!

Steeda Clutch Adjuster Kit
Firewall Adjuster The new Set-screw keeps the cable in place with no need for re-adjustment. Steeda's firewall mounted clutch adjuster lets you adjust clutch engagement without having to crawl under the car. Just turn the adjuster knob on the firewall and you're done. Steeda designed this part with a bigger adjustment range than their competitors, plus a handy locking tab so you can adjust it with just one hand!

Adjustable Cable Replace your old, sticky, gummed-up cable with Steeda's smooth sliding adjustable clutch cable. A new cable can do wonders for clutch feel and pedal effort. When used with Steeda's Aluminum Quadrant, clutch engagement and pedal height can be adjusted by turning a nut at the end of the cable.

Double Hook Clutch Quadrant The factory plastic self-adjusting quadrant is fine for stock clutches, but when you add a heavy duty clutch or some fast power-shifts, it starts to bend. This unwanted flex causes inconsistent clutch engagement and missed shifts at best, plus worn synchronizers and a broken quadrant at worst. Replace that weak plastic clutch quadrant with Steeda's super strong billet aluminum "Double Hook" quadrant. The strong flex free billet quadrant design stands up to the hardest shifts.


Does this cover everything I need to replace the clutch the "Right way"?



Since this is so involved.... do we need to do the blower pull another day?

 

[TRBO VNM]

I would do the fiore adjuster and UPR triple hook. you don't need the cable and I would not put an adjustable on there. they are junk and you will end up replacing it anyway. waste of money.

Maximum Motorsports - Clutch Quadrant and Cable Tech

I would go with the fidanze flywheel. cheaper for the flywheel and the replacement friction plate is cheaper than the spec. if someone is trying to tell you that you need to have matching clutch and flywheel, don't listen to them.

also, I would consider the freeplay kit and ford racing TOB. if you have the budget, tob retainer sleeve unless you know yours was replaced under warranty.

LDC Chicago Clutch Freeplay Correction Kit [LDC-FREEPLAY] : Lethal Performance, Performance parts for Ford Mustangs

Ford Racing 96-04 Heavy Duty Throw Out Bearing [M-7548-A] : Lethal Performance, Performance parts for Ford Mustangs

Lethal Performance T-56 Throwout Bearing Retainer Sleeve [LP-T56TOBSLEEVE] : Lethal Performance, Performance parts for Ford Mustangs

 

[04yellowcobra]

Jason,

do you have stock flywheel from one of these cars laying around? If so can you take some measurements for me? I need the inner diameter and outer diameter of the stock wear surface. Also a count of how many bolts/rivets are on the flywheel. Or if anyone else has a stock flywheel laying around.

I will agree with everything that Jason said. Also don't forget about the pilot bearing as well.

I will say this as well if you are going in as far to put the TB sleeve in you might as well put the 26 spline input shaft in as well ... if the budget allows of course.

 

[TRBO VNM]

Jason,

I have a couple laying around. call me tonight and I can get that for you. I will be finishing up rob's car if his parts came in today.

the spec kit comes with a pilot bearing. it comes with a TOB as well, but I have had customers who have had issues with them and have read on here about early wear, so I just get the ford racing one from now on and the customer gets the spec as a spare just in case or they tell me to keep it.

 

[04yellowcobra]

Jason,

I have a couple laying around. call me tonight and I can get that for you. I will be finishing up rob's car if his parts came in today.

the spec kit comes with a pilot bearing. it comes with a TOB as well, but I have had customers who have had issues with them and have read on here about early wear, so I just get the ford racing one from now on and the customer gets the spec as a spare just in case or they tell me to keep it.

I just found a pic of one in the market and it will not work with the fidanza insert (and from talking with the guy at Fidanza they have made flywheels for spec, but no longer are). So Chris just buy a new flywheel and the next time you replace the clutch you will just have to put a wear surface on it and rock and roll.

 

[FNsweetS3]

All the parts are on the way.... just need to figure out if I have enough friends to push my car up into the garage.

I figure while you mechanic type peeps are under the car.... I am going to take the wheels off and clean them up.... and paint the brakes.... and stay the hell out of the way.

How high do you want this thing off the ground? Top of the jackstands?

 

[TRBO VNM]

yup, everything has shipped except the cooling mod. I am waiting to hear back on that. they had to make some more, but should be shipping any time now.

did you get the new pp bolts and quadrant I sent you?

 

[04yellowcobra]

Chris.

If you can just get it up high enough to get a low profile jack under it that will be fine. I have some monster jack stands that I will bring with me. I think if you can just roll it up on one or two 2x10s. Just enough to get the jack under and we should be fine.

Keep me posted.

Later
Jason

 

[TGS2]

I have a few jack stands I could bring if needed.

 

[FNsweetS3]

Day one.....

So... the big rebuild has started.... my garage looks like a parts store through up in it.

Anyway....

Here is what is going in.... as well as stripping all the paint off the brakes and repainting them and the rotors.

Spec 3 Clutch (26 spline)
Fidanza aluminum flywheel
Lethal TOB retainer sleeve
Ford Racing TOB
Fiore adjuster
UPR Triple Hook
26 spline input shaft
LDC freeplay kit
Invictus Head cooling mod


Head cooling mod is in already....

Paint is stripped off the brakes (what a pain in the ass that was)

 

[TRBO VNM]

very nice man. remember to put a washer or 2 behind the clutch fork pivot ball. I am sure jason knows, but also make sure the pp and flywheel surfaces are wiped clean with brake clean before install.