I bought it
Looking for opinions on this '13 GT500
- Thread starter TerminatoRS
- Start date
Were you looking for a project?
Yup, Been looking for a 2013 to 2014. I can save a few $$ with this one and not feel bad about driving it. Also would have to put Rods in any one that I buy as they are the weak link in the 5.8
I will be doing the work myself.
I will be doing the work myself.
Ahhhh...having the means and know-how makes all the difference. For my buddy, not quite the case. I'm honestly a little shocked he even knows how to drive stick. lol Did they wiggle on the price at all?
Awesome, what type of motor build are you going to do?
Not much, just a stock 5.8 block, crank and aftermarket pistons and rods. Not really looking for a horsepower king just a decent driver.
I haven't had a chance to dig into the car yet but it seems to have been prepped for some serious corner action.
From what I have seen it has,
Tubular Front K Member
Tubular Front Control Arms
Adjustable Struts with Coil Overs
Griggs Racing Torque Arm
Griggs Panhard
It looks like QA1 Double Adjustable Coil Over shocks
Roush Rear Shock Tower Brace
Dynamax Exhaust
Twin 65MM Ford Racing Throttle Body
JLT Intake Air
It also had a set of Stainless Headers, Cats and X Pipe. Some brand that I have never heard of. Those are new never installed
I will be removing all the carbon applique panels from the interior. LOL
They were very fair and I think that I will do OK
If you picked it up for low $20s you will be fine. Building a 5.8 is an expensive venture.
Yup, I am familiar with the costs. Best part is Ford Performance is re releasing the 5.8 Blocks. More like $3000.00 rather than $5600.00.
I think that you were looking at the car at some point. Was that you?
Blocks that can be sleeved and welded are worth $$ to the guys who want to sleeve all 8 for an all out build. If the crank is good that is icing on the cake. I am figuring all new short block and re using the top end.
Thats awesome to hear!! $3,000 for an 5.8 Block, sign me up!
With forged internals 800hp is a safe bet and plenty enough. Sounds like you have a nice suspension and should hook, perform well with a good sticky tire.
Keep us posted and post up some pics.
No I came across the car from this thread when it was listed for $32k. My initial thought was that it was a lot of money for a car that needed an engine. Good luck with the project!
I agree, to most the unknown is not worth the risk. With long blocks from Ford listed for $17,000+ and aftermarket short blocks listed for $12,000 to $14,000 without the labor to swap everything.
Here is a picture of the Cobra-Jet I am close to being complete. It started as a Ford Performance body in white.
o ya, the car went to the right guy. @Robin Lawrence would be cool for you to do a "build thread" in the 13/14 section here
I thought I would post an update on this car as there were a lot of great observations.
I have the engine out and as expected it broke 2 rods on number 1 and 5. Some of the previous posts here identified some of the modifications very accurately.
the block has a lot less damage than anticipated. A small hole on the passenger side about 1/8" in diameter. Most of the damage was above the rotating assembly as the 2 rods broke close to the crankshaft of the big end of the rod. The remaining rods put a hole in the valley about the size of a nickel. It also cut into the oil passage that is above the rotating assembly. One piston and the rest of it's connecting rod were pushed up into the cylinder. the other piston had the pin pulled out and had most of the skirt and pin boss floating around in the crankcase. That piston was also pushed up in the bore.
The good news is that the block can be welded and sleeved for the hard core 5.8 guys. the heads were untouched and didn't suffer any damage. The crankshaft was nicked up a bit but is straight and usable.
I have procured a new block and crankshaft and will sell the old block once it has been welded.
The car has some interesting mods as discussed by several people posting on this thread.
Rear Suspension,
Griggs racing Torque Arm
Griggs Racing Watts link
Adjustable Coil Over Shocks
Roush Shock Tower Brace
Front Suspension
Tubular K Member
Tubular Lower Control Arms
Adjustable Coil Over Struts
Other Items
Barton Shifter
Magnaflow Cat Back Exhaust
Off Road H Pipe
FRPP Twin 65MM throttle Body
JLT Intake Air Tube
2.4" Pulley
It also came with a new Set of OBX Brand Headers and Cats. Not installed
As noted by someone the Sub was missing.
It also has some carbon overlay on the dash and switch panels. That's gotta go!
Someone mentioned the bower elbow being aftermarket but I don't know how to determine that.
I downloaded the Cal file from the ECU and it was stock. The dealer probably removed that at some point.
I will post some pictures once I get them transferred from my phone.
Robin
I have the engine out and as expected it broke 2 rods on number 1 and 5. Some of the previous posts here identified some of the modifications very accurately.
the block has a lot less damage than anticipated. A small hole on the passenger side about 1/8" in diameter. Most of the damage was above the rotating assembly as the 2 rods broke close to the crankshaft of the big end of the rod. The remaining rods put a hole in the valley about the size of a nickel. It also cut into the oil passage that is above the rotating assembly. One piston and the rest of it's connecting rod were pushed up into the cylinder. the other piston had the pin pulled out and had most of the skirt and pin boss floating around in the crankcase. That piston was also pushed up in the bore.
The good news is that the block can be welded and sleeved for the hard core 5.8 guys. the heads were untouched and didn't suffer any damage. The crankshaft was nicked up a bit but is straight and usable.
I have procured a new block and crankshaft and will sell the old block once it has been welded.
The car has some interesting mods as discussed by several people posting on this thread.
Rear Suspension,
Griggs racing Torque Arm
Griggs Racing Watts link
Adjustable Coil Over Shocks
Roush Shock Tower Brace
Front Suspension
Tubular K Member
Tubular Lower Control Arms
Adjustable Coil Over Struts
Other Items
Barton Shifter
Magnaflow Cat Back Exhaust
Off Road H Pipe
FRPP Twin 65MM throttle Body
JLT Intake Air Tube
2.4" Pulley
It also came with a new Set of OBX Brand Headers and Cats. Not installed
As noted by someone the Sub was missing.
It also has some carbon overlay on the dash and switch panels. That's gotta go!
Someone mentioned the bower elbow being aftermarket but I don't know how to determine that.
I downloaded the Cal file from the ECU and it was stock. The dealer probably removed that at some point.
I will post some pictures once I get them transferred from my phone.
Robin
No, it had a tune. The dealer removed it and put the stock tune into the ECU. He told me that. The real question is did they do it before or after it broke LOL.
Robin, looking forward to this build and your knowledge in this effort. Good to see you are still out there on the 1320.
Tom
Tom
Update on the 2013. I pulled the engine to access the damage and develop a list of parts for the build. I will post some pictures later when I have a moment.
The engine had 2 broken rods on the #1 crank journal. It knocked a chunk out of the side of the block leaving a small hole where the oil was leaking. The rotating rod ends still attached to the crank cut through the oil galley above the crankshaft.
I was able to source a new block from Ford Racing for less than $3200.00 I then sold the damaged block for $1300.00 to a famous Trinity Engine Builder.
I picked up a new 5.4 crank, same stroke but needs the bolt drilled and tapped deeper as well as heavy metal for the balance.
I had the stock crank checked out and it had no damage. a few nicks from flying rod parts was all. It was straight and crack free. I decided to use that rather than modifying the new crank.
The best part was when the rods broke they pushed the pistons up further in the cylinders. The tops of the pistons were intact and no debris made it into the heads or supercharger.
I bought a truss to support the transmission and put the car in storage.
I dropped the shortblock off at BES Racing engines to be honed and balanced.
I sourced a set of Calles Compstar Rods and Diamond Pistons.
My racing season ended 2 weeks ago so I pulled the Coyote from the Cobra-Jet and put in in storage where the Shelby was kept.
Now assembling the shortblock and hope to have the engine ready to dyno in a couple of weeks.
My intent is to break it in on the engine dyno with a Holley EFI stand alone system.
Since there is no tune in the car I will need to work on that once the engine is in the car. It will use the stock ECU at that point.
I will get some pictures posted shortly.
Thanks
Robin
The engine had 2 broken rods on the #1 crank journal. It knocked a chunk out of the side of the block leaving a small hole where the oil was leaking. The rotating rod ends still attached to the crank cut through the oil galley above the crankshaft.
I was able to source a new block from Ford Racing for less than $3200.00 I then sold the damaged block for $1300.00 to a famous Trinity Engine Builder.
I picked up a new 5.4 crank, same stroke but needs the bolt drilled and tapped deeper as well as heavy metal for the balance.
I had the stock crank checked out and it had no damage. a few nicks from flying rod parts was all. It was straight and crack free. I decided to use that rather than modifying the new crank.
The best part was when the rods broke they pushed the pistons up further in the cylinders. The tops of the pistons were intact and no debris made it into the heads or supercharger.
I bought a truss to support the transmission and put the car in storage.
I dropped the shortblock off at BES Racing engines to be honed and balanced.
I sourced a set of Calles Compstar Rods and Diamond Pistons.
My racing season ended 2 weeks ago so I pulled the Coyote from the Cobra-Jet and put in in storage where the Shelby was kept.
Now assembling the shortblock and hope to have the engine ready to dyno in a couple of weeks.
My intent is to break it in on the engine dyno with a Holley EFI stand alone system.
Since there is no tune in the car I will need to work on that once the engine is in the car. It will use the stock ECU at that point.
I will get some pictures posted shortly.
Thanks
Robin
Ok Another update. .
So it's alive! I fired it up about 2 weeks ago but had to wait for a belt and other parts before I would get it warmed up or drive. after getting the new belt I was able to tie up several loose ends and go for a spin. I installed a Hays Dragon Claw clutch so I am taking it easy to break in the clutch and engine. I thought that the dealer had overwritten the tune. I was wrong. When it warmed up and idled at 900 RPM I looked closer at the tune. Don't know who's but torque tables and other things have been modified.
Of course I built a fresh shortblock but used the stock crankshaft. It was straight and had no cracks. Calles Rods, Diamond Pistons, ATI Balancer, Billet Oil pump gears, Billet crank timing chain gear. New block from Ford Racing.
I have been collecting stock suspension parts in anticipation of removing all the aftermarket parts. But I told John (the dealer) I would drive it before I made the change. Holy crap it handles very well. Actually doesn't ride as bad as I had thought. Has Grigg coil overs all 4 corners.
I was worried that the Magnaflow exhaust would be stupid loud. It's actually quieter than my supercharged F150 with a Borla system.
I still have some loose ends to tie up. Swapping the Torque to Yield crank bolt out for a Crank Saver Stud. Changing the upper pulley to the stock size since I have a 10% over ATI Balancer now. Going to change the oil and filter then get it on the dyno.
More dyno later. Not looking to have a bunch of power. Want a nice driver. I have a racecar already. I don't need 2 LOL.
Robin
So it's alive! I fired it up about 2 weeks ago but had to wait for a belt and other parts before I would get it warmed up or drive. after getting the new belt I was able to tie up several loose ends and go for a spin. I installed a Hays Dragon Claw clutch so I am taking it easy to break in the clutch and engine. I thought that the dealer had overwritten the tune. I was wrong. When it warmed up and idled at 900 RPM I looked closer at the tune. Don't know who's but torque tables and other things have been modified.
Of course I built a fresh shortblock but used the stock crankshaft. It was straight and had no cracks. Calles Rods, Diamond Pistons, ATI Balancer, Billet Oil pump gears, Billet crank timing chain gear. New block from Ford Racing.
I have been collecting stock suspension parts in anticipation of removing all the aftermarket parts. But I told John (the dealer) I would drive it before I made the change. Holy crap it handles very well. Actually doesn't ride as bad as I had thought. Has Grigg coil overs all 4 corners.
I was worried that the Magnaflow exhaust would be stupid loud. It's actually quieter than my supercharged F150 with a Borla system.
I still have some loose ends to tie up. Swapping the Torque to Yield crank bolt out for a Crank Saver Stud. Changing the upper pulley to the stock size since I have a 10% over ATI Balancer now. Going to change the oil and filter then get it on the dyno.
More dyno later. Not looking to have a bunch of power. Want a nice driver. I have a racecar already. I don't need 2 LOL.
Robin
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