Looking for more recent input on aftermarket radiators.

97cobra1

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Recently i've dropped in a 180 degree stat and lowered the fan settings to try and more pinpoint what's causing my cooling system to "hang up" while it's doing it's job.

Better explanation, my system cools alright at night, but during the day with temps above 80 the cooling system only works one way and that's heating up and never cooling off. The gauge (autometer) will climb to 210 and just sit. No matter the fan coming on or not, driving down the road doesn't cool it off any either. With the 195 stat that was in it, it sat at 195 at night. Now with the 180 in there it sits at 195 at night as well. But slowly climbs north of 195, into the 210+ range even with the high speed fan coming on earlier. (that's during the day, i really see no issues with less humid temps at night)

It seems as if the radiator isn't pulling its weight anymore with higher ambient temps.

I know there's not been a lot of good luck withthe Mishimoto or the fluidyne pieces either one. It seems pretty hit and miss on getting a product from either company. I've dug a bit and found that guys with subframe connectors seem to have a little better luck with the welds busting, or not busting i guess i should say.

The 03-04 radiator is the other unit i'm debating on, but i'm finding mixed input on how well it helps with cooling our cars.

I'd prefer a 3 core setup as an intercooled supercharger is in my plans for the car after i iron out all these annoyances i've got going on.

With the Mishi, i know there's a lifetime waranty, and i'm sure i can manage to install the radiator myself, so busting wleds is just gonna be a minor annoyance if it happens.

I hear the fluidyne is a higher quality piece, with a 2 year warranty, and i'm prone to the same problems. I can't afford, or warrant spending 500 dollars on something just to have to replace it in 2.5 years for another 500 if the welds bust.

The 03-04.... is just super expensive for it being a single core unit, and i don't know if the price is worth the minor drop in cooling i might see, if any.

Now, SVTP.... what would you do?

Also, custom jobs from radiator builders seem to be the safest bet and i know a few guys on here have went that route, but what's the price on those? 6-800 bucks? There's not a shop around me that i'm aware of that can do such work for me... so that's not the best of options unfortunately.
 
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03bluemach

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03-04 rads are disconutied from ford now all they have is what is left in stock .. i went with a LFP unit , seems to have pretty good reviews i havent installed it yet tho ...
 
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BackInTheSaddle

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Here's my take...

I had cooloing problems as well, so I replaced the radiator and A/C condenser. Being a '96, I still had the original "dense" A/C condensor. I installed a new Mishimoto 3-core using their aluminum upper supports. When I installed it, I made SURE that it had room move around when expanding and contracting.

I only have about 400 miles on the new radiator, and so far, so good. Hopefilly, with the amount of play that it has, it won't bind and crack.

I will say that it is a very nice piece of work...

BTW...replacing the rad is not hard, unless your lower radiator support is bent to hell like mine was :nonono: I could kick the previous owner. :mj:
 

mwolson

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I have a 96 Cobra. After my KB install, I noticed that my temperatures crept up like yours, so I installed a big Fluidyne radiator. But that didn't help much. Upon further research, I learned about the too-dense AC condenser. I replaced the 96 condenser with a new 97 condenser (I got one of the last OEM ones), and that did the trick. But 9 months later, the Fluidyne started leaking down the entire side, not long after the waranty ran out.

Fluidyne was no help, so I had a local radiator shop make a copy of the Fluidyne out of copper and brass. It cost me a bit more than $500 and weighed 8 lbs more that the Fluidyne but the cooling capacity of copper is huge. With this setup, my car hasn't ever gotten close to overheating, even on 100+ degree days.

My theory is that the stock radiator mounting hardware doesn't allow enough flex. As the body flexes, it tweaks the radiator through the stock mounts, and that stress is too much for the aluminum radiators to handle.

If I were putting an aluminum radiator back in my car, I'd fabricate some new mounting brackets that have a lot more rubber so they can flex a lot more without stressing the radiator as the body flexes.

That said, there is not a lot of room between the front bulhead and the ABS unit. My Fluidyne barely fit between them, so that may have been part of the lack of flex problem as well. But a much more flexible mounting solution would probably make that issue not such a big issue.

My $0.02.
 

GotJuice96

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Im running the fluidyne and it runs cold even when it's about 100° degrees outside. Car never goes pass the N. It's awesome:)
 

CJK440

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OP, where is your autometer temp sender located?

Keep in mind our cars have an odd cooling system. Unlike most, our stat regulates inlet temp not outlet temp. Coolant will pick up heat when it circulates thru the engine. 210 degrees at the crossover (system outlet) doesn't sound off base when you are putting 180 degree water into the motor.

Sent from my Vortex using Tapatalk 2
 

97cobra1

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I pulled the coolant drain plug on the driver side out of the bottom of the block by the oil pan.

However, my temp isn't really the issue i'm seeing. It's the fact that the system WILL NOT cool during the day. It just slowly keeps climbing up the guage and i see a lot of stop and go and heavy traffic in the car, so the car sitting at 215-220+ for 20+ minutes straight worries me a bit.

Example: I park in a parking garage, and after i pulled in yesterday i had a few extra minutes to watch the gauge and with the car sitting at idle with the high speed fan on it dropped about 5 degrees in the 10 minutes i sat there. From just past teh 210 tick, to barely on the lower side of it.

That seems like a very very sub par job, with the car being under no load and just sitting at idle in the shade.
 
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stanggirl14

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I changed my ac condenser and radiator on my 96. Worked well for a couple years then the fluidyne broke a weld. Asked the local radiator shop here what they recommended since they said they'd seen a lot of problems with fluidynes in mustangs and they recommended Griffin, I haven't installed one yet, currently have an advance auto radiator since it was a cheap solution after the fluidyne broke. AC condenser should make a huge difference though, the original 96's looked almost solid compared to the later ones.
 

spaniard

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i have a 96 cobra. After my kb install, i noticed that my temperatures crept up like yours, so i installed a big fluidyne radiator. But that didn't help much. Upon further research, i learned about the too-dense ac condenser. I replaced the 96 condenser with a new 97 condenser (i got one of the last oem ones), and that did the trick. But 9 months later, the fluidyne started leaking down the entire side, not long after the waranty ran out.

Fluidyne was no help, so i had a local radiator shop make a copy of the fluidyne out of copper and brass. It cost me a bit more than $500 and weighed 8 lbs more that the fluidyne but the cooling capacity of copper is huge. With this setup, my car hasn't ever gotten close to overheating, even on 100+ degree days.

My theory is that the stock radiator mounting hardware doesn't allow enough flex. As the body flexes, it tweaks the radiator through the stock mounts, and that stress is too much for the aluminum radiators to handle.

If i were putting an aluminum radiator back in my car, i'd fabricate some new mounting brackets that have a lot more rubber so they can flex a lot more without stressing the radiator as the body flexes.

That said, there is not a lot of room between the front bulhead and the abs unit. My fluidyne barely fit between them, so that may have been part of the lack of flex problem as well. But a much more flexible mounting solution would probably make that issue not such a big issue.

My $0.02.

uz
 

FSSNK

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Put the 03-04 radiator in mine and it dropped the temps a good bit. If you can find one I would recommend it highly. Also make sure you have the plastic air dam installed underneath the car.
 

mishimoto

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If you have any additional questions or concerns about the Mishimoto unit, please let me know. Regardless of what you unit you go with, I hope you get those temps down
 

97cobra1

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Can't pm you, since you're new. This is your only post, you work for them?

What do you guys recommend as steps to ensure that your radiators won't crack?

The new brackets obviously, it seems subframe connectors help which I have. I'm assuming the stiffer the chassis overall the better the radiators are going to survive? With enough flex from the radiator supports to absorb excess.

I may go with the mishimoto unit. Ther car is pretty stiff, weld in full subframes that look like its also braced to the floor pan. And there's a 4 point cage welded in the car also from one of the Previous owners.

For the price and the warranty... I won't have a problem doing the install myself if I have to do it.

Im gonna keep my eye out for a used 03/04 or maybe see if tousley might be able to do something for me.
 
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mwolson

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My Fluidyne broke even with my Griggs Racing subframe connectors...

I still blame radiator mounts without enough range to compensate for body flex.

Just my opinion though, no real data to support that.

Maybe it would make sense for Mishimoto to instrument a high performance Mustang to measure it...
 

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