KB gt or mach 1 eventually supercharged?

SonicStang03

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I went from a 2004 GT to a 2003 Mach and the insurance for the mach was cheaper.

i essentially want a mach and i want to get it in the low 11's with stock bottom end. reliably.

iv heard that you can do it N/A with a lotta gear. iv also heard that machs are good for nitrous. im think if i do a full bolt on and a zex wet 150 shot i should break under 11.5 you agree?
 

97desertCobra

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well the GT is the cheapest one... lol $300 a month is the lowest i can go.

thats exactly what i was thinking. a forged 2v GT can hold more power than a mach 1 with its stock internals.

how much does it cost to go forged?

Depends on how much you want to pay and how much power you want to make. Do you want an iron block, aluminum, stroker, big bore, both, cams, ported heads etc? There are sooo many options and variables that go into an engine build. Thing about the 2v heads is that even when fully ported they flow less cfm than STOCK 03 Mach 1 heads. Now the new twisted wedge heads are far better than even stock ported 2v heads but they are new on the market.

The Mach is a better platform with more potential to start with.
 

97desertCobra

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i essentially want a mach and i want to get it in the low 11's with stock bottom end. reliably.

iv heard that you can do it N/A with a lotta gear. iv also heard that machs are good for nitrous. im think if i do a full bolt on and a zex wet 150 shot i should break under 11.5 you agree?

Full bolt ons, short runner intake, suspension and a little weight reduction with a 150 shot can get you into the 10's.
 

Furinox

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i essentially want a mach and i want to get it in the low 11's with stock bottom end. reliably.

iv heard that you can do it N/A with a lotta gear. iv also heard that machs are good for nitrous. im think if i do a full bolt on and a zex wet 150 shot i should break under 11.5 you agree?

Doubt a stock bottom end is going to be considered reliable with a 150 shot.
 

SonicStang03

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honestly this has gone back and forth so much. haha one site will say get a mach get a mach and another will say if your going to build the motor you might as well get a GT!! i have no idea which way to go.

i feel like i could buy and build a GT for less then 15k and be able to hold up to more power than a mach which would cost me 15k to have with just basic bolt ons
 
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MineralStang

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WOW. Thats a screaming deal on a shortblock. Don't know much about their reputation for motors though. I was looking at MMR if I ever needed a shortblock. I'm sure someone will chime in with some opinions. I also didn't think that low compression was a huge problem, just high compression. Maybe I'll learn something too!
 

IUP99snake

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I'd go with the mach. As some mentioned before, the machs are a little more expensive, but they are a better starting point for the reasons mentioned above. While you can get them for cheap, they'll still hold their value at least a little bit better than the GT's.

You could also buy a used blower setup rather than a new blower setup for a few grand less. The 4V's love boost, and you'll make about 75 more HP with an equivalent blower setup. Don't push it past 450HP for a safe setup.

But the 03 cobras are an even better starting point, and as some people mentioned, you can get them for around 17K. You'll spend less in the long run with an 03 cobra. You don't have to get a new blower, you don't need to go forged, and if you want a 6-speed, it's got one of those too. If you don't want the IRS, you can sell it and do a solid rear axle swap, all while putting about $1,000 in your pocket. With that $1,000, you can do some basic mods and make over 500 safe HP to the wheels.

Mach 1's are nice cars though. You can always spray em too.... It's not like you'll need 450 HP ALL the time...

Homer
 

SonicStang03

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Don't push it past 450HP for a safe setup.

It's not like you'll need 450 HP ALL the time...

Homer

yeah but see if i got a GT and built it i could have a car with forged internals for the same price i could have a mach. at this point i would boost either one. but the mach would be limited to 450rwhp as the GT wouldnt be. you see?
 

IUP99snake

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Perhaps. I just feel like you'll be pouring more money into a GT in the long run to get the same power level. There are just more bottlenecks and hurdles to overcome.

The insurance will be cheaper with a GT, though. But if you're looking for something cheap on insurance with the sacrifice of making extensive powertrain modifications as you would with a GT, you might as well just buy a New Edge V6 stang for about 5 grand and swap out the 3.8L taurus motor for whatever motor you want. 427 Windsor? Big Block? Built 5.4 Navi? Junkyard 03 cobra motor?

I don't recommend that going to that length, but the point I'm trying to get across is that you have two main choices. Start with something that's a bit more expensive in the beginning, but is simpler and more straightforward to meet your power goals, or start with something that's less expensive but more complex and expensive in the long run to meet your power goals.

In an argument to support the GT, Trick Flow just came out with those badass modular 2V heads that will make 30-40HP more HP than a set of fully ported stock heads. That puts you into 4V territory with a 2V motor. But you'll also need to scrap that plastic 2V intake for a better aftermarket version to get the most out of the heads. Nevertheless, that all defeats the purpose of going the simplest route possible.

Homer
 

97desertCobra

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Stage 3 Motorsports 1996-08 Mustang GT 4.6L Forged Rotating Assembly - 10.5 Dished Pistons

anyone hear anything bad about this kit? is 9.13:1 too low of compression to boost?

That compression is fine for boost. I personaly wouldn't go below 9.5.1, mostly because I want more low and midrange torque for a street car. When I rebuild I'm staying with the stock 9.85.1.

Stage 3 is local to me. They have a good reputation here in Phoenix. That is a decent price for a rotating assembly. But consider you will have to get your block machined, honed etc. Then get the rotating assembly installed, get a new valvetrain, get the heads touched up etc. All this cost $$$. Not to mention the cost of removing and tearing down the engine. Then the cost to reinstall all said parts. Really expect to pay atleast 6k for parts and labor. That not including a blower or the labor involved with that or the tune you will need in both cases.

This shit is not as cheap as you think it is. The price difference between rebuilding the Mach and the GT are small, if any. Biggest advantages with the Mach are all the things I've stated previously in past posts. Blower and motor with parts and labor you will be looking at 10k maybe more. Then you will have to address getting a stronger trans.

In the mean time while you are saving $$$ for a build you can be driving a fast and bad ass n/a Mach 1 that looks, sounds and is WAY better than a gt.

Save yourself lots of trouble, $$$ and energy, wait a couple years for points to drop off your license, save for a down payment, and get a 03 Cobra.
 

IUP99snake

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That compression is fine for boost. I personaly wouldn't go below 9.5.1, mostly because I want more low and midrange torque for a street car. When I rebuild I'm staying with the stock 9.85.1.

Stage 3 is local to me. They have a good reputation here in Phoenix. That is a decent price for a rotating assembly. But consider you will have to get your block machined, honed etc. Then get the rotating assembly installed, get a new valvetrain, get the heads touched up etc. All this cost $$$. Not to mention the cost of removing and tearing down the engine. Then the cost to reinstall all said parts. Really expect to pay atleast 6k for parts and labor. That not including a blower or the labor involved with that or the tune you will need in both cases.

This shit is not as cheap as you think it is. The price difference between rebuilding the Mach and the GT are small, if any. Biggest advantages with the Mach are all the things I've stated previously in past posts. Blower and motor with parts and labor you will be looking at 10k maybe more. Then you will have to address getting a stronger trans.

In the mean time while you are saving $$$ for a build you can be driving a fast and bad ass n/a Mach 1 that looks, sounds and is WAY better than a gt.

Save yourself lots of trouble, $$$ and energy, wait a couple years for points to drop off your license, save for a down payment, and get a 03 Cobra.

I second that. Installing a forged rotating assembly is a very complicated undertaking where the costs can add up very quickly. I can guarantee you that you'll spend more than you anticipate if you decide to go that route.

Homer
 

SonicStang03

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WOW.... just called our insurance guy.

prices are REDICULUS!!!!!!!!!

03 Mach 1 (full coverage) = $14,000 a year
(Liability up to $10k) $5,085 a year which is 450 something a month

03 Mustang GT (liablilty) = $5,000 a year = $400 a month.

so a lot of you guys were right at insureance doesnt flucuate much between the two. but im not willing to pay either.

looks like im doing a V8 swap.
 

IUP99snake

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$14,000 a year for full coverage? That's the same amount you'll be paying for the car!!! If you bought a mach 1 for $14,000 and paid $14,000 a year for insurance, you'd be better off totaling the car after a year. Jesus. That sucks.

V8 swap it is! You'll probably spend $10 $14 grand doing it though. That is, if you're doing a modular swap in a new edge.

a 5.4 would be cool. Or you could wait until the 6.2 "Boss" modular motors become available and start to pop up in junkyards. That'd be a neat swap, but it'll probably be a few years till that happens. A pushrod motor would be badass in a new edge, I've always liked that idea. But if you go that route, don't bother with anything less than a 347 or a 351. You could probably swap in an aluminum headed, fuel injected 427 Windsor with A/C and everything else for the price of a forged 4.6 4V.

Homer
 

97desertCobra

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You will easily spend 10k or more doing a modular swap into a v6 new edge. Honestly you will need a donor car to make the swap easy and the least expensive. I still say save your $$$ and wait a few years till points drop off your license. Then get an 03 Cobra.
 

SonicStang03

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You will easily spend 10k or more doing a modular swap into a v6 new edge. Honestly you will need a donor car to make the swap easy and the least expensive. I still say save your $$$ and wait a few years till points drop off your license. Then get an 03 Cobra.

my buddy just did one for under 3k. i talked to the guy that did his and he said he would install everything for $1000, and i would say prob $1000 for the engine trans, and all that.

i already have an 8.8, moser axels, and 3.73's.

all i would need is engine trans and supporting parts, radiator.... ect.
 

97desertCobra

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my buddy just did one for under 3k. i talked to the guy that did his and he said he would install everything for $1000, and i would say prob $1000 for the engine trans, and all that.

i already have an 8.8, moser axels, and 3.73's.

all i would need is engine trans and supporting parts, radiator.... ect.

That would be the cheapest modular engine swap into a non modular car I have ever heard of in my life. In the sn95 Cobra section one of the members swapped in a used 03 Cobra engine into his 98 Cobra. It cost him 8k. And he did all the work himself.

1000 for engine and trans? It must not be running and have a rod sticking out the bottom and the input shaft on the trans must be bent at a 90 degree angle for that price for both........
 

SonicStang03

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it had 180k on the clock. but hes going to rebuild it. im prob going to buy a 99-01 cobra or mach engine tho. just go straight to 4v. seems to be best and build that.
 

SonicStang03

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excuse my ignorance but i dont see what makes the difference if i have a modular engine going into a a car that HAD a non modular enigne. they are the same chasis? all i would need to change is th ECU, engine and trans then then small stuff.

what makes it suposivly soo expensive?? guys on 3.8 mustang do them all the time for 3-4k
 

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