K Member

[SVT_Troy]

^^^This.



Ok, buy the MM kit, for example - it's just shy of $700. For the mathematically challenged out there...

...add the required A-arms, oil cooler relocation kit, C/C plates (if you don't have them already), bump-steer kit, coil-over kit, etc. Do the math: that's going to make the whole package come in close to $2,000.

Buying the Steeda kit around the holidays means most guys get them for $700ish as well. If you want to trust the front structure of your car to one the cheap kits, knock yourself out. Again, you get what you pay for.

Noticed you did mention coilovers

 

[mark23svt]

Funny how I’m looking for the same thing. Was shopping for arh 1 7/8 longtubes and my mechanic said to buy a good k kmember since he’s taking it off for headers even if I’m staying with stock a arms. Only prob I got in steedas website and the k member is 1k I guess it went back up. I have to wait for another sale.

 

[mark23svt]

And not trying to hijack thread just wondering if anyone knows if the arh come with gaskets and bolts?

 

[whitedevil95]

I run the upr kmember and a arms with Viking coilovers and it works great imo

Same set up here. UPR K, UPR A-arms, Viking coil overs, ARH 1 3/4 headers. Everything fits like a champ, drives great.

 

[D-MANN]

And not trying to hijack thread just wondering if anyone knows if the arh come with gaskets and bolts?

You will want to trash the gaskets they come with and use oem gaskets and oem studs


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[mark23svt]

You will want to trash the gaskets they come with and use oem gaskets and oem studs


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Ok cool sounds good then new oem gaskets and studs . Thanks.

 

[roy_1031]

Ok cool sounds good then new oem gaskets and studs . Thanks.

You can reuse the oem gaskets as long as they’re in good shape and the studs as well. I just used new lock nuts from a local hardware store, the kind without nylon tho.


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[D-MANN]

Gaskets aren’t a huge investment. Get new ones please so you don’t end up doing your header install twice. You can use reuse your studs if they pass your inspection. You can also get stage 8 hardware but I prefer the stock stud hardware.


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[Bdubbs]

I went through this same dilemma a couple years ago when I added headers. My car is driven 100% on the street.

I ended up keeping the stock one, mainly because of what I use the car for and safety. The only other one I would consider is steeda.

I think some people forget to consider that the stock k member is beefy for added safety. I think the only one in that area that comes close is the steeda.

Just my take on it.

 

[D-MANN]

The two best out there. Don’t let the price of the Steeda alarm you as others have stated you won’t need coil overs and new A-arms with the Steeda. I had both but changed directions with my car and went turbo so had to sell this Steeda and get the MM. I snapped these pictures tho while I had both.


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[thatdude305]

Ok I'll lean towards the Steeda unless my installer has another recommendation, but it will have to wait a little bit longer then

 

[Deceptive]

I have two Steeda units waiting for install. I had a UPR setup that came with the car I bought last and I sold it. Put the Steeda against any other one except MM and you will quickly see the difference and think that $1k is cheap in comparison to what others charge.


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[BO TY KLR]

I've had upr in mine for probably 10 yrs without issue. The strange struts I had in the first few yrs had the "clunk" everyone talked about. Switched those out with agx adjustable and clunk went away

 

[MBoyle1]

that steeda one looks nice! any one have thoughts /experience on the Team Z ? ill be in the k member market soon as the SRA conversion is complete.

 

[SlowSVT]

I looked into an aftermarket K-member and the only one I thought was beefy enough that came close to the factory unit was MM. Most of the ones I saw just employed a single round tube which were kinda scary looking as they got closer to 25 lbs. If you add coilovers as well, that places the entire weight of the car (including the engine) on the shock towers which is a bit "iffy" in an SN95. I recall a post where a guy jumped a curve and the factory K-member ripped it right out of the ground and was able to drive away with just a bad scape on the skid plate. I recall another post on CC where the guys wife did the same thing with coilovers and the strut punched a hole thru one of the shock towers. It will be hard to beat the factory suspension for stiffness and robustness for some it may be worth the weigh penalty. Just something to consider.

 

[f2hatch]

Just save your money and reinstall the stock k member after you install the headers much better things to drop $500 + on especially on a Street car.

 

[roy_1031]

But it makes getting to that 3rd bolt way easier.


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[Deceptive]

I looked into an aftermarket K-member and the only one I thought was beefy enough that came close to the factory unit was MM. Most of the ones I saw just employed a single round tube which were kinda scary looking as they got closer to 25 lbs. If you add coilovers as well, that places the entire weight of the car (including the engine) on the shock towers which is a bit "iffy" in an SN95. I recall a post where a guy jumped a curve and the factory K-member ripped it right out of the ground and was able to drive away with just a bad scape on the skid plate. I recall another post on CC where the guys wife did the same thing with coilovers and the strut punched a hole thru one of the shock towers. It will be hard to beat the factory suspension for stiffness and robustness for some it may be worth the weigh penalty. Just something to consider.

Some have said that the front felt stiffer after the Steeda.


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[D-MANN]

Here’s the UPR compared to stock.


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[Bdubbs]

Just save your money and reinstall the stock k member after you install the headers much better things to drop $500 + on especially on a Street car.

That's what I did. I've got ARH 1 3/4 headers, told the shop to put stock k member back in.