not as easy as it sounds
Just blew My Engine
- Thread starter saleenmuscle18
- Start date
not as easy as it sounds
They had some good dealson e-bay last night for 4.6 shortblocks. Also there is a shop here in macon and someone has advertised on here before. They are seeling 4.6 longrods, forged for a really, really good price.
For built long block minus labor you looking @ 7K MINIMUM, I know because I am going through it now, I am doing ported intake, ported heads, comp cams spec'd for my motor, built mmr shortblock.....
I dont think ill need a whole new long block, Ill prob just end up with a new SB. For those of you with Shortblocks how much did you pay for install, labor and tuning?
Yes its intercooled.
I'm going with mmr most likely. You should check out what they have, great stuff for very reasonable prices, www.modularmustangracing.com I'm probably going with this shortblock: MMR 4.6 Street Mod 900 (up to 900HP) $2899
*Brand New Cast Iron 2004 Cobra Block, torque plate bored and honed
*New 4340 Forged 3.543 stroke Cobra Crankshaft w/micro polished journals at no extra charge
*New 4340 5.933 Manley H-beam Rods w/ARP rod bolts ( These US made rods are shotpeened, magnafluxed and weight matched to bring you the finest H-beam rod available for your 4.6)
*New Forged Manley pistons 3.552 Bore size (High or low compression)
*Speed Pro file fit rings (precision file fit to your application, nitrous, blower, turbo or N/A)
*Speed Pro/Federal Mogul tri-metal Rod and Main bearings
*Complete Pro Assembly and Balancing for the smoothest, highest revving shortblock available.
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damn :nonono:
Man I hope that does not happen to me anytime soon! I dont even have the money for a shortblock right now. Did you not just buy that 1.7KB from MPH this spring? I remember you snagged it from me when I wanted to buy it. LOL Too bad though man.
Hey ponyboyisaac, when you are ready to sell that 1.7 let me know. I would love to lose the vortech and jump and a cheap KB.
Hey ponyboyisaac, when you are ready to sell that 1.7 let me know. I would love to lose the vortech and jump and a cheap KB.
is there a common reason i see these cars blowing up a lot... im trying to learn more about them... but i recently keep finding stories of engines blowing and my friend has a termi and somethign happened to where his stock super blew or something in that arena and he is now n/a untill he can afford the helion kit... i own an fbody as you may notice and i dont see these blowing up very often granted they dont come stock fi... so is that the reason?
Well the gt motor does not come stock with a forged bottom end, while the terminator does. I have never heard of a 03-04 cobra blowing a motor on a stock eaton. But you never know... with FI its all in the tune. I bet a bolt on LS1 or whatever does not really depend on a proper tune as much, does it?
I dont think (correct me if im wrong) that his Saleen is supercharged from the factory. Its probably the s-281 version, which is basicaly a GT motor.
I dont think (correct me if im wrong) that his Saleen is supercharged from the factory. Its probably the s-281 version, which is basicaly a GT motor.
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ok that would make sense... and no we do not require much tuning untill you do a lot of stuff... for ex... im about 20-30rwhp above a stock rated of my year... 353 to the wheels with 366 ft lbs according to a dynojet... and i have no tune what so ever on almost full bolt ons.. missing like one thing... a tune in MY case dont think its for all f bodys wont help me much due to the fact im running slightly lean... like 11.5 when its supposed to be 13... and that creats more hp... with a tune i will be safer abotu the same hp... so no risk of blowing motor whatsoever... now with fi... i see them get blown all the time but i assume its not only the tune but our engines unlike the termis are not forged as you very well know with the other mustangs... just a "quick" theory i suppose
pm sent
Just bought this motor should be here in Two weeks! Im going to run it with the 1.7 and the 14psi pulley, untill i can afford a bigger blower
MMR 4.6 Street Mod 600 (up to 600HP)
(The perfect replacement for your forced induction or NOS GT)
*Brand New Cast Iron 2004 Cobra Block, torque plate bored and honed
*New Ford Racing Cast Iron 6 Bolt Crankshaft rated up to 600HP
*New 4340 5.933 MMR (Modular Mustang Racing H-beam Rods, these rods are
shotpeened, magnafluxed and weight matched w/ ARP rod bolts
*New Forged Manley pistons 3.552 Bore size
*Speed Pro file fit rings (precision file fit to your application,
nitrous, blower, turbo or N/A)
*Speed Pro/Federal Mogul Tri-metal Rod and Main bearings
*Complete Pro Assembly and Balancing for the smoothest, highest revving
shortblock available.
MMR 4.6 Street Mod 600 (up to 600HP)
(The perfect replacement for your forced induction or NOS GT)
*Brand New Cast Iron 2004 Cobra Block, torque plate bored and honed
*New Ford Racing Cast Iron 6 Bolt Crankshaft rated up to 600HP
*New 4340 5.933 MMR (Modular Mustang Racing H-beam Rods, these rods are
shotpeened, magnafluxed and weight matched w/ ARP rod bolts
*New Forged Manley pistons 3.552 Bore size
*Speed Pro file fit rings (precision file fit to your application,
nitrous, blower, turbo or N/A)
*Speed Pro/Federal Mogul Tri-metal Rod and Main bearings
*Complete Pro Assembly and Balancing for the smoothest, highest revving
shortblock available.
11.5 is richer than 13, n/a cars its normal to have an air fuel of 13.1
On a FI motor you don't want to go over 12.1, detination starts to play in. The lower the a/f the richer your running.
Hey nice choice man! the 600 should be enough for your 1.7! Weakest part of it is probably the cast crank but honestley ive never heard of anyone breaking a crank on these cars. I'm just getting the 900 for peace of mind i guess. Keep us posted on how everything turns out :beer:
k then i meant 14.5 lol.. basically they said lean... and when i looked it was about 1.5 under 13... i guess on the dyno the number goes up when the bar goes down on a/f? im not totally sure...
Cost was 2500.00 shipped, My tuner said this engine should be good for the 1.7 and 2.6 once i plan to upgrade down the road
It could be that the high incidense of destroyed FI engines is a result of the tune not being properly done to allow for the dynamic change in air temps. Colder, denser air will most times increase an engines output because of the greater a/f by volume and decreasing the amount of timing pulled up top. This extra energy/heat and timing can be a double-edge sword if the tune is not pulling enough timing to keep the heat range out of detonation. Exa: My car was tuned with an ambient temp of 93*. At 70*-80* ambient, the car accellerated much stronger. At 60*-70* ambient it started feeling sluggish up top. At around 50*-60* I was getting detonation at partial boost and it was nasty at wot. Tweaking the timing a bit associated with the Air Charge Temps got rid of the detonation and the accelleration was back.
sweet... i had a 240sx turbo'd and it had bad detonation... i didnt know how to fix it... turning the boost down helped it go away so i left it alone and it didnt come back luckily... that was back when i def. didnt know shit about fi... still dont know much but more then i used to
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