JPC Turbo kit

Benchracer

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You rocking stock manifolds or JBA Benchracer? If stock, did you port them? The first thing I noticed when I pulled mine off was the large amount of welding slag present in each primary. Looks like a good amount of power could be had by port matching.

Did you coat your headers/hot side piping? Any signs of extra heat in engine bay? Did you notice a power increase from removing the filter?

Stock untouched headers. No coatings. The engine bay temps are ridiculously cool. The turbo blanket and titanium exhaust wrap seem to help tremendously. I have a buddy with a tvs on his coyote and you can fry an egg under the hood, even after 2 hours of sitting. I can pop the hood on minr right after I shut it off and can keep my hand on the turbo hotside or the downpipe either one. Not taking away from the rest of the set up but the engine bay temps are probably the most impressive part of the kit IMO. The filter didnt seem to restrict too much til the car started making around 900rwhp. I havent had the filter off since it was on the dyno and when the boost comes in it feels like a big truck with a chain connected to my front bumper flies past me going 30-40mph faster than me and all of a sudden all of the slack gets taken out. Its a neck breaker. :beer:
 

turbosha

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It's actually the new May 5.0 Magazine King of the Streets article with the JPC Boss 302 in there :)



Mine still runs the Stock manifolds. We pull the filter off at the track but I run the filter on the street normally.

does the filter removal make any difference?
do you have different tunes for street and track?
 

poof100

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does the filter removal make any difference?
do you have different tunes for street and track?

Helps a little at the track with the spool, nothing major, but any Turbo will benefit a little without the filter.

No, run the same tune regardless of where I am. I do have 2 tunes, but they are strictly based on which fuel I run. I normally run the car on E85 and have that tune and then another tune for 93 when I don't have E85 around.

We also adjust the boost at the track and by gear and use the same tune. The MAF/tune adjusts for the increase in boost along with the boost referenced FPR.
 

Aaron@JPCRacing

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using the factory mass airflow sensor?
how can it read boost?

Yes we still use the factory MAF sensor.

All it does is meter the airflow going into the engine. It doesnt read pressure it just reads the volume of air traveling to the engine which allows you to correctly measure the amount of fuel required
 

92fiveohfox

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Is there anyway to run cats with this kit? Or at least swap some cats on for emissions time?
 

Aaron@JPCRacing

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Is there anyway to run cats with this kit? Or at least swap some cats on for emissions time?

Currently no we don't offer a way to run cat's with this system. Not saying it would be impossible to fab a set of cat's up but it would be a fairly restrictive. You could probably run a cutout on the downpipe to alleviate that though.
 

JUIC3D

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I snapped a few photos and took some measurements. What do you guys think? Seems like a good amount of flow could be gained from port matching the flange to the runner(assuming the exhaust port in the head is the bigger 1.8" measurement)

Doing the math it would equate to an extra 2.432" of diameter gained for all 8 cylinders. I'm a noob with turbos, but just common sense says that might improve on the efficiency of a turbo kit, no?

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Fabbed5.0

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The headers are stepped Justin so 1.54 ID will actually speed up the velocity and then it steps to a bigger size to accommodate more power. But yes at a certain power level that 1.54ID will become a restriction.
 

Aaron@JPCRacing

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To be honest porting the manifolds won't do you much good. The main issue with the factory manifolds is the design themselves. If you look at how the tubes are layed out a few of them intersect at 90" angles which is hard on flow.

By keeping the inside volume of the manifold low and by having a free flowing design (similar to the JBA or Kooks shorties) you can minimize spool time and increase flow.

The factory manifolds work fine for the most part we've just seen some improvements by going with the JBA shorties. We've made over 1000rwhp with the stock manifolds on a few cars here at the shop, so I'd say that work alright for what they are.
 

JUIC3D

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The headers are stepped Justin so 1.54 ID will actually speed up the velocity and then it steps to a bigger size to accommodate more power. But yes at a certain power level that 1.54ID will become a restriction.

To be honest porting the manifolds won't do you much good. The main issue with the factory manifolds is the design themselves. If you look at how the tubes are layed out a few of them intersect at 90" angles which is hard on flow.

By keeping the inside volume of the manifold low and by having a free flowing design (similar to the JBA or Kooks shorties) you can minimize spool time and increase flow.

The factory manifolds work fine for the most part we've just seen some improvements by going with the JBA shorties. We've made over 1000rwhp with the stock manifolds on a few cars here at the shop, so I'd say that work alright for what they are.

Awesome, thanks guys. Great info. So what you're saying is, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"? What about having the stock headers coated? Worth it or no
 

Aaron@JPCRacing

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Awesome, thanks guys. Great info. So what you're saying is, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"? What about having the stock headers coated? Worth it or no

I mean if you can afford to upgrade to the JBA's I would, otherwise I wouldn't worry about it. As far as coating we haven't coated one yet but I feel like for the money it would cost to have the stock manifolds coated you could just go with a set of JBA's and get better results for the money spent.
 

JUIC3D

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Do you guys happen to have a comparison showing the gain, ceteris paribus, of the JBA over the stockers?
 

Aaron@JPCRacing

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Do you guys happen to have a comparison showing the gain, ceteris paribus, of the JBA over the stockers?

I do not. We've noticed slightly lower back pressure readings in testing when going with the JBA's on a few cars. So from that we can tell it was flowing a good amount better and the spool time seemed to be slightly less.
 
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Boostfan

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I am getting ready to make a turbo purchase. Wanting to go twins but this JPC single kit is looking good. I really dont like the idea of having to remove the front swaybar. I know everyone says you cant really tell, but my wife will be driving the car as well so thats precious cargo. I'm hearing the Hellion twin kit is giving some people trouble with drivability problems. So I'm trying to get as much information as i can to make the best educated decision. Love reading everyone's input keep it coming guys.
 

SignalZero

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I am getting ready to make a turbo purchase. Wanting to go twins but this JPC single kit is looking good. I really dont like the idea of having to remove the front swaybar. I know everyone says you cant really tell, but my wife will be driving the car as well so thats precious cargo. I'm hearing the Hellion twin kit is giving some people trouble with drivability problems. So I'm trying to get as much information as i can to make the best educated decision. Love reading everyone's input keep it coming guys.

I tossed around the same idea for over a year. The reason I went single is because I never plan on taking my street car faster than what the jpc car has ran. If a single could do it, I'd be overly satisfied with the results. Plus with a single there's less plumbing, less worry with one turbo going out rather than both, one oil line but, twins have that wow appeal.

And I think a big single is just as damn sexy!!! :dancenana:
 

Aaron@JPCRacing

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I am getting ready to make a turbo purchase. Wanting to go twins but this JPC single kit is looking good. I really dont like the idea of having to remove the front swaybar. I know everyone says you cant really tell, but my wife will be driving the car as well so thats precious cargo. I'm hearing the Hellion twin kit is giving some people trouble with drivability problems. So I'm trying to get as much information as i can to make the best educated decision. Love reading everyone's input keep it coming guys.

What I recommend for you is this.

Disconnect the front sway bar and take it for a spin around the block. You honestly wont feel that much of a change from stock. But that will let you know right off the bat if you'd be ok with driving without it.

I wouldnt be afraid to put my wife/gf in a 2011+ car without a front sway bar.

A SN95 or a fox would be a different story entirely.
 

JUIC3D

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Aaron, do you guys require a special radiator support or will the bmr one clear the kit?
 

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