IRS differential bushing change, how long?

10sec89

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Curious as to what kind of time frame it takes to change out the two front bushing's and the rear bushing. I am a mechanic by trade, working on industrial equipment(fork lift's and such) so the job don't scare me just wondering how much time I need to allow.
 
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Bruha

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A Lift helps a ton. Without, plan a weekend. Second set of hands is huge too.
 

xXSnakeBiteXx

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If your just doing the diff bushings and your good with a wrench you can knock it out in one day no problem lift or not. It doesn't require you to drop the whole sub frame but you will need access to a press for the rear mount
 

anvrsy red vert

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Just buy this kit from Maximum Motorsports. IRS differential mounts, urethane, complete kit, 1999-04 Cobra [MMIRSB-45] : Maximum Motorsports, the Latemodel Mustang Performance Suspension Leader! Have to drop the diff. after removing the half shafts but no big deal. I would replace the cover with either an LPW one or the new Ford Racing IRS cover while you have it out though too. Recommend a lube locker gasket as well instead of RTV sealant. If it's your first time removing the diff. I would plan on two days at least!
 

TRBO VNM

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It all depends on what else you are doing. I have had the diff out in 45min before. when I am resealing them I usually take 3hrs. I spend a lot of time cleaning the surfaces to make sure they are spotless and like new. And that 3hrs includes changing the rear bushing as well.

If it takes you 2 days, you should not be working on the car unless it is take a bolt out, drink a beer, take another bolt out, drink a beer and so on.
 

greengt88

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I used a kit from Full Tilt Boogie Racing, took me and 2 other guys 2.5 days to complete the job and that was with having a spare set of upper/lower control arms pre-assembled and a whole new center section ready to rock.. It was an enourmous undertaking with jackstands. i don't think a lift would have mattered that much. i also used air tools.it's a giant pain ithe ass. u will absolutely need an alignment and make sure u do everything all at once. Did HD Toe-links, Adj. Sway-Bar Endlinks, and Aluminum rear diff support.
 

Brutal Metal

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Curious as to what kind of time frame it takes to change out the two front bushing's and the rear bushing. I am a mechanic by trade, working on industrial equipment(fork lift's and such) so the job don't scare me just wondering how much time I need to allow.

Bring it down to FordSpeed Joe will bust it out for you:beer:
 

v3lzie

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I did mine in a day. The fronts are piece of cake, but the rear is a pita because you have to lower the diff which means a lot of disassembly. Make sure you use a bushing removal tool like MM's and you can get the rear bushing out of the mount in like 2 minutes.
 

10sec89

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wow, wild range in times, I was figuring 3-4 hrs. I already have the MM kit with the tool to press out the rear bushing, what a PITA set up just to do a bushing change.
 

TRBO VNM

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10sec89, the longer timeframes gotta be for all bushings. Just the diff bushings should be no more than 6hrs for your first time. That assumes you have the proper tools.
 

jrgoffin

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10sec89, the longer timeframes gotta be for all bushings. Just the diff bushings should be no more than 6hrs for your first time. That assumes you have the proper tools.

^ This.

Really not a bad job, it's just a matter of getting everything out of the way first. If you don't have this already, here's the step-by-step from MM:

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/content/install/pdf/tools/MMT-5.pdf

The bushings are great - I was surprised how solid the diff is held in now. Not one bit of movement despite what all the poly bashers will tell you.
 

10sec89

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^ This.

Really not a bad job, it's just a matter of getting everything out of the way first. If you don't have this already, here's the step-by-step from MM:

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/content/install/pdf/tools/MMT-5.pdf

The bushings are great - I was surprised how solid the diff is held in now. Not one bit of movement despite what all the poly bashers will tell you.

I have the direction's but thank you, when I first looked at them I was like are you serious lol.:dw:
Glad to hear you had good result's with the poly. I am hoping these and some larger IRS bolt's help the clunk a little.
I will also be doing steering rack poly replacement too, car should feel better.
:shrug:
 

Quagmire

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just drop the sub frame if you got a tranny jack. Roll it on out and replace everything. Shouldn't need a 2nd set of hands, but they always help. Take a weekend maybe bleed into monday.
 

Mystic-SVT

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OP, if you're a mechanic by trade then this shouldn't take you more then 6hrs to do, thats about what it would take me to do the bushings you're going to do with the car on jack stands.

Bodge323, its not too hard of a job to drop the IRS assembly;

-remove exhaust
-unbolt driveshaft
-remove lower rear seat and unplug ABS sensors and push through bottom of floor
-remove emergency brake cable and unbolt from control arm
-remove caliper from knuckle
-mark upper control arm camber adjustment bolt and remove
-swing caliper and brake hose between knuckle and control arm so it doesn't bind when lowering cradle
-unbolt shocks from control arms
-support irs assembly with jack
-remove rear cradle bolts
-lower jack slowly to where the springs are loose enough to remove
-remove front cradle bolts (might have to use crow bar/large screw driver to get cradle to come out of front pockets.
-lower irs assembly carefully watching to make sure you don't catch the calipers and bind the brake hoses.

You will have to have the car high enough to be able to slide/roll the IRS assembly out the back or side.

Here is a shot of the 03 I just finished installing a complete FTBR bushing kit. I removed/installed the whole assembly by myself so its not impossible to do on your own.
Photo1736.jpg
 

jrgoffin

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I have the direction's but thank you, when I first looked at them I was like are you serious lol.:dw:
Glad to hear you had good result's with the poly. I am hoping these and some larger IRS bolt's help the clunk a little.
I will also be doing steering rack poly replacement too, car should feel better.
:shrug:

I also have the MM poly in the UCA's & LCA's along with the subframe (& the Ford 14mm front bolts). Absolutely no problems and VERY solid. There is no play in the control arms and they also articulate smoothly. The Prothane grease is kind of a nightmare, but works well too.

As for the rack, I added the Prothane bushings as well and a Flaming River shaft - big improvement! Not only is the rear planted, the front feels quite solid too.

The whole IRS job isn't too complicated, just time consuming. I did mine by myself with the aid of a Harbor Freight tranny jack and it was really no big deal. Hopefully you should have it easy as well!!
 

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