Installing cams in a DOHC 99 Cobra

[98-LS1]

Would there be enough of a power gain to justify swapping in some larger custom grind cams in a 99 model cobra mustang? I never have heard a cammed cobra 4.6L or heard of anyone installing bigger cams to get more power and that nice lopey idle. First, how hard would it be to install a set? Second, what's the price tag on a common set-up, third, what kind or RWHP power gains could be achieved on a full bolt on 4V Cobra? Thanks,

98-LS1

 

[Quadcammer]

1. its not really "hard". Its time consuming, and tricky with the motor in the car. The cams should be degreed, which takes time and some special tools. The actual mechanics of it are not that difficult, but compared to an ls1 cam swap, it is much more challenging.

2. New billet cams are about 850. Anything above a 450 lift cam should have some new springs for 600. Add a tune, and you come about 1800, without labor.

3. Probably about 360rwhp with everything.

Now, you will not be getting a ton of lope out of the 4v. It takes a pretty wild cam to get it to lope. I have 475 lift, 242 duration 114center line cams, and my lope is pretty mild.

 

[01 Venom]

It should be added that if youre going to pay someone to do it, its a heavy bang, I have heard some shops charging like 12 hours to do it. So 12 X $100/hr on average is a tough nut.

 

[98-LS1]

1. its not really "hard". Its time consuming, and tricky with the motor in the car. The cams should be degreed, which takes time and some special tools. The actual mechanics of it are not that difficult, but compared to an ls1 cam swap, it is much more challenging.

2. New billet cams are about 850. Anything above a 450 lift cam should have some new springs for 600. Add a tune, and you come about 1800, without labor.

3. Probably about 360rwhp with everything.

Now, you will not be getting a ton of lope out of the 4v. It takes a pretty wild cam to get it to lope. I have 475 lift, 242 duration 114center line cams, and my lope is pretty mild.

Wow, thanks for the help. Is there any place on the internet where I can get a step by step write up on installing cams in one? I'm not familiar with the Ford Mod motors at all, especially the DOHC one's so I'd like to do a little reading into this before tackling such a project. I just installed a cam in my Z-28 a few weeks ago and it was easy, took a day to do on my LS1 but that's why I'm wanting to do some research. A buddy of mine is interested in a cam swap on his car so this is new territory for me. 360 rwhp is a pretty darn good amount of power for a N/A 4.6L, is there a certain cam grind that works well on these motors? I know on the LS1's most guys say to run close to a 600 lift, 112 LSA cam to make good streetable HP so I wasn't sure if the Ford's responded well with a large lift cam like the LS motors. Thanks for the help.

 

[98-LS1]

It should be added that if youre going to pay someone to do it, its a heavy bang, I have heard some shops charging like 12 hours to do it. So 12 X $100/hr on average is a tough nut.

Very true, labor costs are rediculous. I will most likely do the work myself saving him some money which is why I'm going to do a large amount of research before tackling such a project. Thanks

 

[Quadcammer]

Wow, thanks for the help. Is there any place on the internet where I can get a step by step write up on installing cams in one? I'm not familiar with the Ford Mod motors at all, especially the DOHC one's so I'd like to do a little reading into this before tackling such a project. I just installed a cam in my Z-28 a few weeks ago and it was easy, took a day to do on my LS1 but that's why I'm wanting to do some research. A buddy of mine is interested in a cam swap on his car so this is new territory for me. 360 rwhp is a pretty darn good amount of power for a N/A 4.6L, is there a certain cam grind that works well on these motors? I know on the LS1's most guys say to run close to a 600 lift, 112 LSA cam to make good streetable HP so I wasn't sure if the Ford's responded well with a large lift cam like the LS motors. Thanks for the help.

Id probably look to crower or comp for cams.

here are the basics.

1. unhook neg. batt cable
2. remove air intake
3. I would probably remove the intake lid, but you could do it with just pulling the throttle body probably.
4. remove valve covers (I believe its 8 bolts per)
5. Remove belt and crank pulley
6. unplug Crank position sensor
7. Unbolt timing cover and separate from oil pan.
8. slide trigger wheel off
9. remove all the followers when the cams are on the base circle and the piston is down in the hole.
10. lock the cams at cyl 1 TDC, compress the primary tensioner, and put pin in it, and remove Exhaust cam sprocket bolt.
11. Remove sprocket and timing chain.
12. Compress secondary tensioner and put pin in it, then remove intake cam sprocket bolt. Remove secondary chain.
13. In proper sequence, unbolt cam ladder caps and remove cams.

Install new cams with plenty of assembly lube.
reinstall caps and torque

the rest is the reverse.

keep in mind this was a 10 minute write up, and its a lot more difficult with the motor in the car.

Thats also not including degreeing.

 

[Torch10th]

The heads on the DOHC mod motors flow quite well at low cam lifts. Remember we've got 4 valves per cylinder rather than two like the LS1.

Our cars respond better to cams with higher amounts of overlap vs lift.

One of the reasons you don't see a lot of cammed cars is that for the price it takes to get them installed and dialed in you're really only looking at a 30-40rwhp gain. There's a lot better "bang for buck" mods out there for these cars.

 

[98-LS1]

What other kind of mods make good power on these motors? I'm not familiar with them at all so sorry for all the questons. The cam swap idea does seem a little much for such a limited gain. I know on the LS1's, which is the only FI motor I've ever fooled with, a cam alone can make big power even get in the 400 RWHP range with all supporting mods. Well, let me ask this then.. What would it take to get a good 350 RWHP N/A while still attaining good fuel mileage and driveability? Thanks for the help guys...

 

[Torch10th]

350rwhp is hard to acheive on the stock block without use of cams honestly. The compression needs bumped a bit. But with the following you can make a good dent into 350rwhp.

intake
long-tubes/mid-pipe/catback
March pullies
ported/polished lower intake (cut)
dyno tune

This is probably more on the order of a 320-330rwhp combination. Use of other lightweight driveline components such as aluminum flywheels and driveshafts will likely free up a few more ponies, but not a lot.

 

[01 Venom]

as Torch says, takes good coin to make decent power NA on these motors. They do struggle to make torq on the low end.

 

[4a7191a]

if you can make your way to houstonperformance i think with thier custom cam grinds, its like 1350 or 1450 installed cant remember the exact price, the grinds are slightly less than the comp stage 2's i think, and you dont have to replace the springs. i personally like that shop, the guys and owner are very up front, and know what they are doing. i was told for my headers the install price would be 450, thats not that bad for how hard that job is, when the machs paid off ill be doin the cams in it, by that time i might do the heads too.

 

[SSeatr]

id love to get an extra 30-45rwhp before i put a blower on..im at 300 right now with just cai o/r x and a catback

 

[REX-RACER]

Odd noone has mentioned the FR500 cams?

 

[na svt]

Odd noone has mentioned the FR500 cams?

No one has mentioned them because most people do the complete FR500 valve train which requires head removal.

 

[na svt]

Id probably look to crower or comp for cams.

here are the basics.

1. unhook neg. batt cable
2. remove air intake
3. I would probably remove the intake lid, but you could do it with just pulling the throttle body probably.
4. remove valve covers (I believe its 8 bolts per)
5. Remove belt and crank pulley
6. unplug Crank position sensor
7. Unbolt timing cover and separate from oil pan.
8. slide trigger wheel off
9. remove all the followers when the cams are on the base circle and the piston is down in the hole.
10. lock the cams at cyl 1 TDC, compress the primary tensioner, and put pin in it, and remove Exhaust cam sprocket bolt.
11. Remove sprocket and timing chain.
12. Compress secondary tensioner and put pin in it, then remove intake cam sprocket bolt. Remove secondary chain.
13. In proper sequence, unbolt cam ladder caps and remove cams.

Install new cams with plenty of assembly lube.
reinstall caps and torque

3.5 remove the clutch cable from the pedal and you may have to loosen the master cylinder

4.5 remove upper and lower coolant hose

Also, the "cam locks" may not work with aftermarket cams. I know they won't work with Comps. Just make sure you place the keyways toward the deck and have the #1 piston at TDC when you install them

Give yourself at least 4-6 hours if you have never degreed 4V cams.

If you choose to do it yourself make sure you have a solid adjustable lash adjuster and a cam degree kit. BTW, degreeing the driver's side exhaust cam is a biatch.

Here's a short tutorial on degreeing and stetting up the cams and chains. Also, the Hyland book on 4.6s has an excellent section on installing cams. BTW, I don't recommend any other Hyland products.

 

[droptopsnake01]

Odd noone has mentioned the FR500 cams?

B/c you will make more power with the comp/crower cams, if I were to do it again I would have went with comp stg 2 cams.

 

[slick4_6]

B/c you will make more power with the comp/crower cams, if I were to do it again I would have went with comp stg 2 cams.

Where did you get yours installed, or did you do them yourself?

 

[na svt]

B/c you will make more power with the comp/crower cams, if I were to do it again I would have went with comp stg 2 cams.

Not true. Show me somone who has made more power with a stock shortblock than Nazman did. He had FR500s and made 410rwhp and now makes over 450 rwhp n/a with those same cams.

 

[98-LS1]

Damn 450 at the wheels is impressive N/A, especially on a 4.6L
I bet it cost alot to get that kind of power though but holy shit I bet that car pulls like no other, traction is probably non existent though.

 

[98-LS1]

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