Ice Tank on a Street Car

[NotSatisfied]

I have a stock bottom end, 2.9 G4 Whipple, (25# boost) on E85. Stock Cams. I have a 6Gal PNR Tank with an EMP32 and 3/4" lines. I notice just cruising my Charge Air Temps will get up to the 140-150s. Just cruising. I just installed the Mark VIII fans to keep heat soak in check as best as possible. Running Distilled Only.

BEFORE My plumbing was Ice Tank -> VMP Intercooler -> Gords Ford HE -> Ice Tank

I dont run ice ever, i bought this car set up like this. I notice the charge temps are very hard to recover. Street Only Car.

AFTER I was told to route it Ice Tank -> Gords Ford HE -> VMP Intercooler -> Ice Tank

Will this make a difference? I am going BOTTOM/In and TOP/Out.

I know there are a ton of topics to search on this but there is never any concrete or conclusive data.

Thanks!

 

[OSU34]

Route the lines the way you were told. The way it’s routed now, it may be susceptible to air pockets as air obviously rises. Ditch the ice tank and get a KC if you are gravely concerned. That may be your best option.

 

[NotSatisfied]

Route the lines the way you were told. The way it’s routed now, it may be susceptible to air pockets as air obviously rises. Ditch the ice tank and get a KC if you are gravely concerned. That may be your best option.

What about it would create air pockets flowing water from the bottom and out the top?

 

[01yellercobra]

I thought you had this fixed in your old thread?

 

[NotSatisfied]

I thought you had this fixed in your old thread?

Not yet


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[01yellercobra]

So the pump is still a possible issue? At this point I would pick up a stock pump and source an under hood tank. Put everything back to stockish and see where you're at.

The Mark VIII fan isn't going to help your intercooler unless you have everything fenced in at the front.

I was in South Carolina a couple weeks ago and my cruising temps were 120-125. Engine temps were 180-200 depending on if I had the a/c on. I saw 150 after a couple hard pulls, but it came down decently quick.

 

[Soap]

Radiator fan has nothing to do with IAT2's. My bet is your 20 year old core is tired and flow is seriously reduced. Got a video of the return flow into the tank?

--Joe

 

[NotSatisfied]

Radiator fan has nothing to do with IAT2's. My bet is your 20 year old core is tired and flow is seriously reduced. Got a video of the return flow into the tank?

--Joe

I have a brand new VMP Intercooler unit installed. Return flow is good.

 

[NotSatisfied]

Fixing to list the car, i think im done. It probably needs further upgrades to bring the charge air temps down. I think im done.

 

[NotSatisfied]

So the pump is still a possible issue? At this point I would pick up a stock pump and source an under hood tank. Put everything back to stockish and see where you're at.

The Mark VIII fan isn't going to help your intercooler unless you have everything fenced in at the front.

I was in South Carolina a couple weeks ago and my cruising temps were 120-125. Engine temps were 180-200 depending on if I had the a/c on. I saw 150 after a couple hard pulls, but it came down decently quick.

Sounds like a dream. Im fixing to list the car for sale.

 

[Soap]

I have a brand new VMP Intercooler unit installed. Return flow is good.

"Good" is subjective. Oh well, good luck with the sale.

--Joe

 

[biminiLX]

You do NOT need to reroute it.
Your rear tank should go directly to the intercooler brick then to the heat exchanger then back to the tank; any other advice is incorrect.
Are you 100% confident you’re logging IAT2s after the intercooler brick?
Plus you’re running E85 so it’ll tolerate a fair amount of IAT2.
No offense but it sounds like you’ve bought a highly modified car and not willing to live with what that really means.
Or if you’ve confirmed those are true iat2 then what does VMP say? Whipple?
-J

 

[Soap]

Your rear tank should go directly to the intercooler brick then to the heat exchanger then back to the tank; any other advice is incorrect.

-J

If you are not using ice (like the OP) then the best routing is from tank to HE to IC core as that will put the coldest fluid directly into the core. When not using ice the coldest fluid temp are directly out of the HE.

The way you recommend to route the fluid will pickup a bunch of heat prior to entering the core by passing through the lines and tank.

--Joe

 

[biminiLX]

If you are not using ice (like the OP) then the best routing is from tank to HE to IC core as that will put the coldest fluid directly into the core. When not using ice the coldest fluid temp are directly out of the HE.

The way you recommend to route the fluid will pickup a bunch of heat prior to entering the core by passing through the lines and tank.

--Joe

And if he’s never taking it to the track or using ice then he bought the wrong car!
It would make zero difference to him yet eliminate the ability to use the system as designed for the next owner (meaning use ice for the track or fun street runs).
But simply rerouting it as you’re suggesting is pointless. OP just needs to sell and move on as he’s already stated.
-J

 

[CobraBob]

Well, you've spent a lot of time on that Cobra. Probably the best decision is to put it up for sale. Any plans for what will replace the Cobra?

 

[2003RedfireVert]

Well, you've spent a lot of time on that Cobra. Probably the best decision is to put it up for sale. Any plans for what will replace the Cobra?

Seems to be ZL1s on this site….everyone is buying ZL1s now lol

 

[NotSatisfied]

Put a blue blob on the plunger stick. A line on the screen as reference.

Video


Is this faulty bypass valve the culprit?


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[NotSatisfied]

VERY IMPORTANT for whipple crusher owners & installers

I recently installed a 2.9 Whipple Crusher on my car. I was having a lot of trouble getting the tune dialed in just sitting in my driveway idling and I was also noticing IAT2 temps of 150F. This is from cold start up just idling in the driveway. Very puzzling till I got a phone call from a...

www.svtperformance.com

Interesting... I have emailed Whipple.

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

Seems extremely plausible and would explain a lot. I’ve never seen a bypass not move when racking the throttle

 

[CobraBob]

Fixing to list the car, i think im done. It probably needs further upgrades to bring the charge air temps down. I think im done.

I see you put it up for sale. You mentioned in that thread that you thought the heat issue might be due to the bypass valve. Curious why you didn't just replace it. At least you'd know whether or not it fixed the issue, and a buyer at the price point you're at would feel a lot more confident that he is not going to have to continue to invest time and money. Not breaking your chops. It just seems to be a logical question. There's a ton of stuff in your past threads that might make a buyer a bit leery. Serious question.