I have a plan, and I feel pretty good about it.

[rwleonard]

I use my track packed '13 for driving fun, both on the street and at HPDE's. No commuting or road trips with the wife. So far, I have FRPP L springs, FRPP front sway bar, BMR front a arms, LCA/re-lo brackets and Watts Link, Griggs Torque Arm, stainless brake and clutch lines, Dot 5.1 fluid, Shelby Venice wheels with Nitto 555 G2's, 285/35 front, 305/35 rears. I will drive it through this HPDE season in this configuration unless something breaks or wears out.

The next off-season I plan to add a VMP Stage 2 kit, MM k member, ARH headers, upgraded heat exchanger and radiator, tstat, oil separator and a brake cooling kit.

When the 555 G2's are shot, I will get a set of Vorshlag 19x11 wheels and wrap them in NT01's, either 305 square or 305 front 325 rear. When the OEM rotors are shot, I will upgrade to either Eradispeeds or RB 2 piece rotors. When OEM dampers get squishy, I will go with JRi or KW V3's, with a chance I'll do Vorshalg's Trackpro kit instead.

The next round will be to add a KB Bigun IC under a VMP G3 and perhaps upgrade to the MM SLA system if/when that comes out.

Should be a nice, progressive build, coupling things that go together (k member/header install, VMP G3/IC install) that will give me a very capable car that I hope to get enough seat time in to grow into.

I welcome thoughts/suggestions.

 

[tones_RS3]

Sounds good man.
I assume you're talking about at the drag strip, correct?

 

[rwleonard]

No, road course. The idea behind the VMP G3 and KB IC (if that's what makes you think drag strip) is to make around 730-ish while staying as cool as possible. It is also way down the list. I might never get there.

 

[PhoenixM3]

I use my track packed '13 for driving fun, both on the street and at HPDE's. No commuting or road trips with the wife. So far, I have FRPP L springs, FRPP front sway bar, BMR front a arms, LCA/re-lo brackets and Watts Link, Griggs Torque Arm, stainless brake and clutch lines, Dot 5.1 fluid, Shelby Venice wheels with Nitto 555 G2's, 285/35 front, 305/35 rears. I will drive it through this HPDE season in this configuration unless something breaks or wears out.

The next off-season I plan to add a VMP Stage 2 kit, MM k member, ARH headers, upgraded heat exchanger and radiator, tstat, oil separator and a brake cooling kit.

When the 555 G2's are shot, I will get a set of Vorshlag 19x11 wheels and wrap them in NT01's, either 305 square or 305 front 325 rear. When the OEM rotors are shot, I will upgrade to either Eradispeeds or RB 2 piece rotors. When OEM dampers get squishy, I will go with JRi or KW V3's, with a chance I'll do Vorshalg's Trackpro kit instead.

The next round will be to add a KB Bigun IC under a VMP G3 and perhaps upgrade to the MM SLA system if/when that comes out.

Should be a nice, progressive build, coupling things that go together (k member/header install, VMP G3/IC install) that will give me a very capable car that I hope to get enough seat time in to grow into.

I welcome thoughts/suggestions.

Do the k member before the headers. Trust me.

 

[rwleonard]

I was thinking doing them at the same time. No?

 

[PhoenixM3]

I was thinking doing them at the same time. No?

Removal of the stock manifolds and subsequent installation of the ARH headers will be much easier with the k member removed. Buy the engine support bar from MM too.

 

[Black Cobra '99]

Nice build man!

I recently started doing HPDE and while I didn't plan to, I already done suspension mods that would help me on the track.

My current set up is, stock blower with 2.5 pulley and JLT 123 intake and xforce mufflers, Mcleod RXT, MGW gen 2 shifter, 170 tstat, triple pass HE and 13/14 IC pump. Suspension wise, BMR LCA and MM relo brackets, BMR UCA and bracket, Whitline watts link, Eibach R1 coilovers and MM CC plates. Running stock wheels with Nitto INVOs stock size. Latest mod I did was JLT brake ducts and I'm running Carbotech XP10 pads.

I'm taking this year off but stocking parts as well, so far I got Stoptech cryo slotted rotors, Racingbrakes caliper rebuild kit, MM front a-arm bushings and bump steer kit, FRPP Boss brake lines, Steeda X5 balljoints. On the way, Apex EC-7 wheels 19x10 w/ Nitto 555 G2 275/40/19 square, and an oil cooler. I also plan on adding aero but still not decided on what parts exactly.

 

[Black Cobra '99]

I also got Racelogic Vbox sport, its a vey handy tool. Its basically a data logger for the track, they have built into it maps of race tracks around the world and so it knows if you are in one. Through their app, it'll log your time but more importantly, it will tell you in real time if you are going faster or slower through a corner compared to the last lap. It can also show acceleration graphs and whatnot.

 

[rwleonard]

The addiction is strong, is it not, Black Cobra? I am going to have to check out that data logger. That sort of thing scares me though; it's what leads you to push just a little harder...

 

[CobraBob]

I also got Racelogic Vbox sport, its a very handy tool. Its basically a data logger for the track, they have built into it maps of race tracks around the world and so it knows if you are in one. Through their app, it'll log your time but more importantly, it will tell you in real time if you are going faster or slower through a corner compared to the last lap. It can also show acceleration graphs and whatnot.

That's a pretty awesome app there. Your mods list is very well thought out, and longer term than most. Much less chance for error when you plan that far ahead vs. launching into a set of mods that might be popular or recommended by someone else. Not that people don't have good recommendations. But deciding on mods based more solely on your driving needs/plans makes more sense.

So I've got to ask the question. Has your wife ever rode in your GT-500? I assume so, but it sounded like maybe she doesn't ride in it. Or did you mean that you just don't use the car for longer drives/trips.

 

[rwleonard]

She has, but my wife has a hard time riding in anything without getting motion sickness. She is fine if she is driving, but she has no desire to drive the GT500.

 

[03kbredfire]

I was thinking doing them at the same time. No?

Yep. If you are doing headers and are planning to replace K member, definitely do them at the same time. Look at K member options carefully. Harbor Freight has an effective engine brace which is quite cost effective.

 

[rwleonard]

Thanks. Do you have any insight into K Members? I am leaning toward the MM unit for a few reasons, strength to hold up to potholes and such on a street/HPDE car, "corrected" roll center (kenny brown talks about this, too, but I don't read much good about it, and BMR doesn't even talk about it), and the potential to add a SLA kit to it at a later date. I would be open to considering the Kenny Brown K member and lower control arms if I could find some folks who were happy with them. No future SLA potential with that though.

I would consider a full-on Griggs GR40ST or GR40TT, but two big Griggs dealers/installers have both recommended sticking with the GR40SS for a dual purpose car, and I am pretty much there with my current set up. The addition of the MM K member strikes me as a good intermediate step up from the GR40SS (adding purportedly improved geometry to the front), without shelling out thousands more for a Griggs SLA, for a guy who is, after all, just trying to have fun.

 

[Black Cobra '99]

The addiction is strong, is it not, Black Cobra? I am going to have to check out that data logger. That sort of thing scares me though; it's what leads you to push just a little harder...

Ohhh don't I know it. My whole plan changed after one event, by the second event I wanted an all out race car lol.

 

[Black Cobra '99]

That's a pretty awesome app there. Your mods list is very well thought out, and longer term than most. Much less chance for error when you plan that far ahead vs. launching into a set of mods that might be popular or recommended by someone else. Not that people don't have good recommendations. But deciding on mods based more solely on your driving needs/plans makes more sense.

Well, it started out with fixing the issues the car had, like wheel hop and heat soak. But then I wanted more power, and needed better suspension to handle the power... you get the idea, lol.
I have to give credit to the community, they do have good recommendations. But when it comes my car, I have to get what suits me.

 

[Black Cobra '99]

Thanks. Do you have any insight into K Members? I am leaning toward the MM unit for a few reasons, strength to hold up to potholes and such on a street/HPDE car, "corrected" roll center (kenny brown talks about this, too, but I don't read much good about it, and BMR doesn't even talk about it), and the potential to add a SLA kit to it at a later date. I would be open to considering the Kenny Brown K member and lower control arms if I could find some folks who were happy with them. No future SLA potential with that though.

I would consider a full-on Griggs GR40ST or GR40TT, but two big Griggs dealers/installers have both recommended sticking with the GR40SS for a dual purpose car, and I am pretty much there with my current set up. The addition of the MM K member strikes me as a good intermediate step up from the GR40SS (adding purportedly improved geometry to the front), without shelling out thousands more for a Griggs SLA, for a guy who is, after all, just trying to have fun.

I also plan on getting the MM k-member, mainly because of price and its modular nature, and the details on it on MM website is quite insightful. Like you said, we're only trying to have fun, so breaking the bank doesn't make sense. And one thing to consider is how you grow with your car, the reason I started with a lesser tire is to know how the car behaves at the limit, same goes for power. With each mod you'll have to learn the car again, I like to do it in steps.

 

[rwleonard]

Yeah, I started with all seasons last year and stepped up a little this year, and will make another step up when I wear these out. I wouldn't bother upping the power at all (yet) except that it makes sense to do the headers with the k member, which I am given to understand goes better with a tune, and I have 3.73's in the rear so my speedo is off, AND I would like to hear the S/C better, so just as well throw a stage 2 kit on while I'm at it. That might well be all I ever do, power-wise.

I thought shooting was an expensive hobby.

 

[Bad Company]

Stay away from the Kenny Brown K-Member and front control arms. They're junk in my opinion as the front K-Member is known to bend under hard braking. I had the Kenny Brown parts and removed them to reinstall the stock pieces after seeing a campaigned American Iron car fold up the Kenny Brown parts. I installed the Maximum Motorsports K-Member recently with the stock front control arms and bushings. I installed BMR Adjustable Motor Mounts to lower the engine 1/2". These surprisingly didn't add a lot of NVH from the engine. In fact I have the solid aluminum pieces from BMR to make a solid mount and if the bushing of the current mounts show any degradation from heat they'll go in place of the poly.

My car is very similar to your build list

CorteX Racing Watts Link, Torque Arm, Relocation Brackets with the lower control arms in the rear with all spherical bearings, Ford M-5300-L springs, stock Bilstein adjustable dampers, MM Camber Caster plates, MM Bump Steer kit, Eibach adjustable front sway bar, stock rear sway bar. I've thought about going with the FRPP bushing kit for the front control arms, but haven't made up my mind about this yet.

The car handles with a very light feel and no understeer with this combo of parts. The MM K-Member made a significant difference in how light the car feels compared to the stock one. I don't think you'll be disappointed with this combo

 

[Bad Company]

I thought shooting was an expensive hobby.

LOL

It doesn't take long for the shooting hobby to add up to as much as modifying one of these cars real quick. If you enjoy shooting pistols with a lot of speed and low split times between shots, look at Infinity Firearms. The pistols they build can't be matched for low recoil and flat shooting, unfortunately they aren't cheap. A lot of the top competition action pistol shooters run these if they aren't sponsored by a major gun manufacturer and are required to shoot the sponsors firearms during competitions

 

[Black Cobra '99]

I'm still getting the hang of this, I only started recently. So far I wanted to make the car more reliable on the track in terms of heat management while learning about suspension tuning and how it affects the car.

So for now, it'll be as is. Next step for me will be NT05s, torque arm, sway bars and a little bump in power.

So how is your oil temps on the track? I noticed mine would shoot up by the end of the second session and will stay high for the third one. I need an oil cooler but the only one I've seen is from MMR, but there is the option of DIY.