i give up, what does a person have to do to make a 03 cobra fast?

shanezt

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I dont think you understand the concept of how heat and weather will effect a car. Especially a power adder vehicle like a twin screw. I will break it down for you. You need a cooldown between runs, with the hood up, 30-45 minutes, you need ice in the icebox. With that being said, a turbo car will still suffer, they heatsoak as well. Your the type of guy that makes me cringe at the track when I see you come back from a run, or setting in the lanes with your hood down, and hotlapping. I'll say a prayer for your motor in these coming days, and will probably say "i told you so" when you swap to a turbo and still run the same ET's and MPH.

Your at 2000ft elevation already in Vegas, with the heat and the density altitude calculation the calculator came up with 5000ft of Altitude. So this is what your car thinks your at, as the amount of oxygen in the air alot less which you cannot make alot of HP. This is also the same reason NHRA will not run a National Event there during the middle of the summer, only in the spring and fall, the times would be shit, and people would tear up parts. If your still reading this then Ive hope youve learned something.

I might be moving to Vegas in the next couple of years, my car traps 136 in decent weather, I wouldnt even be running my car in 100 degree weather, and if I did, I would be happy to trap 130. I did the same thing in FL, ran in the winter, and kept away from the track in the summer. This is also the same reason you see a shitload of new personal best threads in the fall and spring. I will guarantee you, if you take this car somewhere out east or closer to the coast in cooler weather you will see some serious gains. Even Vegas in Jan-March is alot better.

I think your best bet for intake temp is to back down boost to 17-18psi, and throw a 100 shot on it, cause with what your working including your mindset its not gonna happen EVER. If you want to get serious about runing your vehicle and running good ET and MPH, listen to what these people have to say.

see i had no idea about the DA. i knew it was 2000ft, which coming from denver is like sea level. i was just excited to be at a track with low elevation. i am listening and i am throwing around the idea of nitrous, i allready stated that my goal is not gonna happen with this set up. dont worry about my motor it has a very nice warranty.

i dont pop the hood in the pits cause this is vegas, my blower would walk away. you will see, its not the same class of people you would expect at a track. LOTS of gang activity and shady things going down at the track. rival car clubs getting into brawls, security searching your car and running a metal detector over you.
 

BlckBox04

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you really need to practice a lot and learn the shift points of that car, getting the suspension dialed in correctly, and knowing what the car does and doesn't like in the conditions you are presented with.

i went 10.9 on only 15#'s of boost at 125
last month i went 10.8 @ 128 in some hot weather and i also have a 2.2 making a bit more hp then you but i have slick and skinnys mounted on bogarts as well

and not trying to be an a$$ or anything but you are VERY foolish for not worrying about your 60ft and the temperature. those ARE the two most important aspect of getting a good time out of your car. the night i ran my 10.9 it was about 50 degrees out with an almost negative DA if i remember correctly and my 60' was a 1.54 on the irs. those two factors alone(along with my powershifting) is what powered this 3600# sled efficiently down the track.

you just need to understand the key elements of drag racing a little more, that's it. In due time if you keep with it you'll know a lot more and start picking up on little tricks here and there from guys with years of experience. and i want to add that being friendly and talking with other racers who know what they're doing is the best way to improve on your times.
 
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SvTDsG

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If the killer chiller works off the A/C compressor it would only cool the intercooler during idle and normal driving, the a/c cycling switch turns the a/c clutch off at WOT. So if you want it cool during the pull N2O is what you need.
 

Jimmysidecarr

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If the killer chiller works off the A/C compressor it would only cool the intercooler during idle and normal driving, the a/c cycling switch turns the a/c clutch off at WOT. So if you want it cool during the pull N2O is what you need.

This could not be more wrong! The mass of all that water is not going to allow the water temp to raise that quickly. It does not instantly turn all the water hot. Often on the return road temps are almost back sorta close for another run. Sitting in the lanes all that water gets cooled back down and it is pulling heat out of the blower and lower and intake ports of the heads, all connected by metal to the I/C.
There are guys running killer Chillers at open track events with overwhelming success. With 1/4 mile straights and entry speeds of 70 mph+.
The WOT cut off can be defeated in the tune.

Though I do agree with Broke7 about less boost and a 100 shot. A quick simple , inexpensive fix.

Meth was also mentioned and it was correctly described as being effective only post intercooler. When installed that way it does work well.

OP you may actually be an excellent candidate for a small adjustable boost turbo on a compound boost set up, because you are already set up with E85.

A lot of potential here.
 
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bigjohnson4.6gt

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my buddy ran an 11.8 with a tune, pulley, intake and exhaust, running on mt et streets, sounds like you need to work on that 60' big time
 

BIGGESTJOHNSON

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lol!, i havent seen that pic in a while, its from a ex-friends hellion turbo terminator that came to my shop with a "custom tune"...sad part is that i let the guy use my shop for 3 days to put another motor in and he was a retard and melted that one too on the first street hit because the tuner swore it wasnt the tune lol...some people are literally born stupid...you cant teach that:loser:

never mind, you're not worth the effort...
 
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harvboi05

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sell the KB and buy a big centri or run a turbo. if you sold your entire blower setup, you can switch power adders for probably no extra cost. run a big ass intercooler, keep ur fuel system, trap a lot faster. problems solved.
 
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Got Torque

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lol!, i havent seen that pic in a while, its from a ex-friends hellion turbo terminator that came to my shop with a "custom tune"...sad part is that i let the guy use my shop for 3 days to put another motor in and he was a retard and melted that one too on the first street hit because the tuner swore it wasnt the tune lol...some people are literally born stupid...you cant teach that:loser:

Sad part is you still know nothing and have to try to make yourself feel better about all the junk you have lying around because you can't make anything run but perhaps changing over to carbs will help you out.

Second motor didn't melt einstein, it had hypereutictic (sp) pistons in it, it was assembled wrong!

Last time that blue turd tried to go to the track it had to be pulled off the side of the highway and towed back. Keep making excuses, it's only been what 7 years or longer?

You are good at calling people names behind there back, that's about it.

The same car you tuned was retuned by this other tuner and made 100hp more, good job man.
 

mmustangsrus

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how is your driving?
it must suck :D

What are you 60fts?

Pratice driving?

it does take a lot of practice :-D
yesssssir exzckery !!



Appears that you have a heavy car that is not producing the horsepower on the track that it did on the dyno. And poor launching and slow shifting will definitely reduce your MPH.

If you put down your runs in this format, there are fellas on this site that can analyze it pretty thoroughly:

60'............1.584
330...........4.552
1/8...........7.061
1/8 MPH.....99.53
1,000.........9.21
1/4............10.987
MPH...........129.19
:beer:

Three words for ya man:

Spinnin' Aint Winnin.

You seriously need to learn to get the car to hook first. That will give you better ET's and MPH.
THATS So0o0o0 right !!!!!

and water box DR`s a line lock AND BEING A NON GRANNY SHIFTING ASS WILL HELP YOU :beer:



driving has everything to do with it. hell, i trap 129 in my ported eaton car with a da of 2300'.
:rockon:

12.0's @ 123 is what my 2.76 ported eaton vert ran with shitty 2+ 60` ft`s
 

jmstekguy

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Sad part is you still know nothing and have to try to make yourself feel better about all the junk you have lying around because you can't make anything run but perhaps changing over to carbs will help you out.

Second motor didn't melt einstein, it had hypereutictic (sp) pistons in it, it was assembled wrong!

Last time that blue turd tried to go to the track it had to be pulled off the side of the highway and towed back. Keep making excuses, it's only been what 7 years or longer?

You are good at calling people names behind there back, that's about it.

The same car you tuned was retuned by this other tuner and made 100hp more, good job man.

good luck with your car, hope it runs this year...
 
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IronTerp

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As if this thread wasn't ridiculous enough in the first place, you guys have taken it down to a whole new level with your bickering about a totally unrelated topic. Why don't you guys head over to Smack Down?
 
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jmstekguy

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As if this thread wasn't ridiculous enough in the first place, you guys have taken it down to a whole new level with your bickering about a totally unrelated topic. Why don't you guys head over to Smack Down?

its done anyways, sorry for the vent.
 

rwboring

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wow... i dont even know what to think....

easiest way to get your speed up if you are running at 5000ft...

correct your numbers!
 

onebadsvt

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see thats just it, i dont want a car that is fast ONLY when the air is right. this bitch needs to run the same day or night. and it was cool last night, 98* for my first run.




driving is not the problem, this is my second cobra been racing for many years. and driving dont explain 571hp. it should be closer to 650+, unless a 2.3 whipple is just alot better than a KB, they can touch 700. my last shot will be a killer chiller or a 50 shot to bring iat temps down, but i feel i should not have to, if the i/c would just do its damn job better.




okay please give me examples of these 700hp and 650hp cobras with pump gas tunes with a kb 2.2 or whipple 2.3

my cobra had a whipple 2.3. and every almost every bolt on possible and made 608/570 on 93octane
 
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