i give up, what does a person have to do to make a 03 cobra fast?
- Thread starter shanezt
- Start date
i love the idea, funds will take a while for that.
When you figure this out let the rest of us know please.
650 actual rwhp with a 2.3 or 2.2 kb isn't common, maybe with cams and full exhaust it's close with 21+ pounds but 700 isn't happening homie. These dyno numbers don't mean shit.. it's the track times and mph that tell the cars speed... remember that. If you're racing at the same altitude that jesus christ sleeps at it might not be the most ideal to compare to people at or below sea level da's
Next track night run your best times then wait.
Find a friend and have him drive your car. Then you will see if a driver Mod is needed?
Please don't feed the Supra Troll either
Find a friend and have him drive your car. Then you will see if a driver Mod is needed?
Please don't feed the Supra Troll either
Damn that piston looks pissed off :lol1:
Dude if you're as pro of a racer as you say you are, but have never heard of a turbo setup getting heatsoaked, you are crazy.
There is NO chance of making 650+ on 21#s and only 19* of timing... IAT2s in 170 is HOT, so your car is going to be down on power... What kind of fuel are you running?
Ice your junk down between runs, the heat is killing you... You expect to run 130+ when it is 98*'s out side?? Are you kidding me?
Everyone is giving you solid advice, but your only contribution is "no I want to run bikes when its 110 out". Yeah hot lap your turbo car, that'll work better..
You are either a troll, or not nearly as seasoned of a racer that you make yourself out to be.
there is a guy making just short of 700 with a whipple 2.3 @ 23psi he is who i was thinking of when i made that comment. i am running 23* of timing not 19. i ran a 240z turbo for years at bandimere, big turbo, 25psi and it would run 116mph day or night, never had a heat soak issue.
i had no idea the KB was such a heat generator, my only solution is to install a killer chiller.
the problem with ice is that it is UPHILL from the staging lanes to the starting line so all that ice becomes a waste idleing in the lanes
The key is all in the 60ft. A well prepped track is essential. Practice is the other key. Knowing what your car likes and dislikes. Below you will see my old 91GT. Eibach race springs and lakewood 70/30 struts. Hoosier quicktime pros. A efi 408 that only put down 389rwhp through a C4. In that picture I launched at idle, notice the front tire is off the ground! That run was a 7.2@96mph in the 1/8 with a 1.59 60ft.
Dude, you said it was pulling 5* from IAT2s, so you were running 18*s... The total timing the tune wants, and what it gets aren't always the same.. If your IAT2s are 170, then there is no way in hell you are making close to 650.
What fuel is the 2.3L Whipple running making that kind of power? Not pump that's for sure.. Most 2.3 Whipples running pump tunes are making mid 500s to a little over 6 at the wheels on average.. You can't compare pump gas and race gas/E85 tunes because you can run a shit ton more timing on race/corn.
What cooling mods do you have? Getting a larger IC reservoir and FILLING it with ICE, while priming the pump will lower your temps regardless of how up hill the staging lanes are..
Even a turbo car with a 100% efficient IC will only lower the temps down to ambient, so yes turbo cars are just as affected by the ambient air temps. A 100% efficient IC is an impossibility.
You need to get temps down, your car running 125 mph in 98* weather is not that bad, neither are you HP numbers considering how high your IAT2 temps were on the dyno.
So getting a killer chiller, or a fogger for your heat exchanger are really your best options for wanting to run in the heat like you are trying to do.
okay we have some confusion, i said it was pulling 5* on the dyno, that was with 19* commanded in the tune. we never dynoed with 23*. at the track i installed a 23* tune, i dont know what my iat2 temp is going down the track. i run e-85 which is why i run so much timing.
i want to try putting ice in the i/c res, i just have to figure out how to remove the damn fuel cell like cap. it always has to pried off with a screwdriver, i am scared it will damage the seal.
Ok, I'm getting what you did there.. But what else do you have done to support E85? You didn't mention anything else like 80# injectors, or what your pump set up is or anything..
Are you sure you have enough fuel to support what you are trying to do?? The E85 is going to require a more serious fuel system than gas..
twin gt's, bap, 80's, -8 feed, kinda the standard e-85 set up. what sucks is the first time on the dyno the car did 603 but the pumps were maxed. by the time i upgraded the fuel line and made it back, the car would only do 570. it was about 10* hotter when i went back.
things are starting to add up, it makes sense now why a cts-v can only traps at 103. also saw a pullied terminator trap 103. never have seen a c6 z06 trap over 118. i always thought it was the drivers, but i guess we must have some of the worst air here.
I would have to severly dissagree, the difference between me and my GF driving my cobra the same day at the track is 6-10 MPH different "Im faster thank god" Drag racing is not easy or simple, it takes alot of time, practice, and adapting to get the most out of your car. Try not to get frustrated, get all the weight out of it as possible and just practice.. To keep your MPH up try icing down as much as possible between runs, ice the blower, IC resevoir, heat exchanger. I always jump the IC pump relay and keep ice around resevoir and HE even in the staging lanes to get as much heat out as possible. Hot lapping your car will certainly loose alot of MPH
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