Yes, combo of Pep Boys and Auto Zone. Pep Boys should have had all of it, but they where out of the large caps for the intake pipe.
How to, The Correct Boost Bypass Mod
- Thread starter metaman
- Start date
Yes, combo of Pep Boys and Auto Zone. Pep Boys should have had all of it, but they where out of the large caps for the intake pipe.
Yep, got mine from Harbor Freight the other day for $8.99. I had seen them before in a thread over on modularfords a few years back. It works awesome. You just get the tie strap finger tight. Then you slide the tail into the end of the gun. When you squeeze the trigger it pulls the tie strap super tight. When it gets to maximum tightness it automatically cuts it off right at the buckle.
Now I am thinking about cleaning it up a bit by removing and capping all of these lines that go into the boost bypass solenoid where I drew the red arrows.
Looks good! Cant wait to hear more results from other guys trying this and if any ill effects come of it.
Vacume Lines I Plan on Eliminating
Ok, so I snooped around to see where the lines going into the boost bypass solenoid route to so that I can get rid of them. Here is what I found, I labled the lines I traced number 1 and 2.
Line number 1 turns back and ends up here at the top pre-boost vacume port on the back of the blower. Since this line will never see boost, I plan on just clipping it, leaving about an inch of red line sticking out and capping it.
Line number 2 attaches to a long larger diameter formed plastic line that goes back behind the blower, past the blower, and emerges over near the firewall and front right fender. Attached to the end of it is what looks like an air relief canister. That is the only thing that I can guess that it is. I will be getting rid of all of this crap.
Finally, just for the noobs out there, a while back I hose clamped the main post-boost vacuum feed. It had backed its way off about .25 of an inch due to the boost pushing it off. I recommend that everyone slap a hose clamp or tie strap on this fitting.
Ok, so I snooped around to see where the lines going into the boost bypass solenoid route to so that I can get rid of them. Here is what I found, I labled the lines I traced number 1 and 2.
Line number 1 turns back and ends up here at the top pre-boost vacume port on the back of the blower. Since this line will never see boost, I plan on just clipping it, leaving about an inch of red line sticking out and capping it.
Line number 2 attaches to a long larger diameter formed plastic line that goes back behind the blower, past the blower, and emerges over near the firewall and front right fender. Attached to the end of it is what looks like an air relief canister. That is the only thing that I can guess that it is. I will be getting rid of all of this crap.
Finally, just for the noobs out there, a while back I hose clamped the main post-boost vacuum feed. It had backed its way off about .25 of an inch due to the boost pushing it off. I recommend that everyone slap a hose clamp or tie strap on this fitting.
Off it goes
Line Capped
Done, all that is left is to pick up some of the right sized caps to seal off the boost solenoid to moisture. Maby one day I will have a custom tune done where it is turned off in the tune and I can just remove it completely. For now this is fine, until I get board again.
Line Capped
Done, all that is left is to pick up some of the right sized caps to seal off the boost solenoid to moisture. Maby one day I will have a custom tune done where it is turned off in the tune and I can just remove it completely. For now this is fine, until I get board again.
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I know what I will be doing this weekend! Thanks for all the detail man!!
More so if you are running above stock boost levels. It made a huge difference in how responsive my car felt with only a 2.8 pulley.
Version 1.3
Ok, so I got board again and decided that I wanted to splice into the boost line earlier up near where the line crosses in front of the boost bypass actuator. The way I had it, even though it works great, looked to rigged. I wanted it to look more OEM because I don't have a job and I have to do something all day. LOL
So I went back to the auto parts store to get what I needed to T into the hard line. This is what I came up with. I got all of this stuff from Advance Auto Parts.
I then took apart the custom hard line that I had made before and shortened it and installed it. Then I tie strapped all of the lines with the tie strap gun.
Next I removed the two hard lines that go into the EGR solenoid (green and red), pulled the fitting off of the end of them, and put a couple off small sections of the small OD vacuum conduit on them to cover them up. I then tie strapped the vacuum lines together in a couple of places. I DID NOT USE THE TIE STRAP GUN WHEN SECURING THE HARD LINES TOGETHER. That would be way to tight.
I also got some 1/2 inch conduit while I was as the store. The factory conduit that had gone over the vacuum lines was now way to big because I had removed that large diameter plastic hard line from inside of it. I then installed this new conduit over the vacuum lines. The spot where I T'd into the hard line was a little to big for the 1/2 inch conduit. So I trimmed a little piece of the 3/4 conduit that had come off of the car to fit over that section. It turned out nice and clean and OEM looking. It is more effort than the other way, does not make any difference functionally, but it looks one hell of a lot nicer. Before I stated that I could care less how the engine looks, I guess I changed my mind.
Finally, I am satisfied. This the final product of version 1.3. I guess the only thing left to do is wrap some electric tape around where the 3/4" conduit intersects with the 1/2" conduit. I have to go buy some electrical tape now. Also I guess you could use black tie straps so they don't show as much. I had the white, so I used white. I am ok with it.
Ok, so I got board again and decided that I wanted to splice into the boost line earlier up near where the line crosses in front of the boost bypass actuator. The way I had it, even though it works great, looked to rigged. I wanted it to look more OEM because I don't have a job and I have to do something all day. LOL
So I went back to the auto parts store to get what I needed to T into the hard line. This is what I came up with. I got all of this stuff from Advance Auto Parts.
I then took apart the custom hard line that I had made before and shortened it and installed it. Then I tie strapped all of the lines with the tie strap gun.
Next I removed the two hard lines that go into the EGR solenoid (green and red), pulled the fitting off of the end of them, and put a couple off small sections of the small OD vacuum conduit on them to cover them up. I then tie strapped the vacuum lines together in a couple of places. I DID NOT USE THE TIE STRAP GUN WHEN SECURING THE HARD LINES TOGETHER. That would be way to tight.
I also got some 1/2 inch conduit while I was as the store. The factory conduit that had gone over the vacuum lines was now way to big because I had removed that large diameter plastic hard line from inside of it. I then installed this new conduit over the vacuum lines. The spot where I T'd into the hard line was a little to big for the 1/2 inch conduit. So I trimmed a little piece of the 3/4 conduit that had come off of the car to fit over that section. It turned out nice and clean and OEM looking. It is more effort than the other way, does not make any difference functionally, but it looks one hell of a lot nicer. Before I stated that I could care less how the engine looks, I guess I changed my mind.
Finally, I am satisfied. This the final product of version 1.3. I guess the only thing left to do is wrap some electric tape around where the 3/4" conduit intersects with the 1/2" conduit. I have to go buy some electrical tape now. Also I guess you could use black tie straps so they don't show as much. I had the white, so I used white. I am ok with it.
Because I don't want boost at 1,200 rpm under 12% throttle on a 95* day. :shrug:
As I previously stated in my case boost came on VERY early and I take it easy on the car during the hot months. It see's very little if any boost and is used mainly to cruise, no racing, no track. When it gets back to the low 70* mark I'll mod. it again.
FYI..........keep a eye on your 02's if your boost curve has changed your tune MAY be affected. I know I picked up nearly 3 psi up top!!
I was thinking that you could calibrate the actuator. If you could hook up a pressure gage between the top port on the actuator and a low volume pump of some sort, bicycle pump or something, then pressurize the diaphram inside the actuator to your boost level. After this you could loosen the two bolts on the actuator and reset it so that it is not closed until you have reached your maximum boost level.
So the way that this is set up above in the pictures, does this work good and not cause any problems around town or long term issues?
I actually got on the car this morning in 2nd at a pretty low RPM and it spun hard where it would never spin before. So this mod made a big difference from what I can see so far. Going to the track tomorrow.
All this mod is doing is taking away the computers ability to regulate the bypass valve/actuator. The post boost line that is going to the top of the actuator in these pics has vacuum when not in boost. I call it post boost because it routes to the vacuum fitting on the bottom rear of the blower below the rotors. Vacuum causes the plunger (metal rod) on the bottom of the actuator to pull up which is the way it is supposed to work. This prevents cavitation and excess heat build up which makes it good around town and does not cause any short or long term issues.
Then when you take the vacuum away (boost) it pushes the plunger down and prevents boost loss under hard throttle. So the only difference between the way I have it set up and the factory way is that now the plunger stays all the way down when in boost. Where as before, the plunger had a tendency to come up slightly when at above stock boost levels which sucks.
My air intake temps are the same driving around town as they where before which is the only factor which would cause a problem.
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