I did this mod today, boost still leaking in the upper RPM's. I guess the heaton is still doing it's thing. Oh well, it was worth a shot.
How to, The Correct Boost Bypass Mod
- Thread starter metaman
- Start date
If your blower is unported like mine is then it will have some effeciency issures still in the upper RPM's. However, the boost drop off will no longer be contributed to by the bypass valve.
I did this mod today and just came back from a quick trial run. What a difference on top. I used to watch the boost gauge drop up top and it would drive me crazy. Now it stays pegged! You can def. FEEL a difference on the top end. No other drivability changes that I could see. Everyone should do this mod.
I did this as well. Drove around and IAC were same as they were. On the dyno the car peaked about 1.2 lbs more but it held 12.3 almost all the way through the pull. My dyno graph is in a video called 2001 Cobra Terminated.
Here are pics of my deleted crap on the side. Looks alot cleaner.
Finally, just for the noobs out there, a while back I hose clamped the main post-boost vacuum feed. It had backed its way off about .25 of an inch due to the boost pushing it off. I recommend that everyone slap a hose clamp or tie strap on this fitting.
Old post, but I can 2nd this.
I had this blow off on me 2x while running an open track event at Mid America Motorplex. I just happened to spot it disconnected back there.
Have run the car numerous times at the drag strip, never a problem.
10 Laps of road course racing... and "POP".
I know that this is an old thread but I'm bringing it back up cuz I'm having some issues and the info. in this thread really helped me. Somebody in another thread asked if this bypass method is ok for a 2.3 Whipple....is it?
i just read the link to the modford page. it works with the ts's too
Excellent!
You don't need a kit for anything, I got rid of all that crap on the side with the exception of the EGR vacuum regulator solenoid. I just have vacuum line running to the boost actuator and the fuel pressure sensor and mounted the Differential Pressure Feedback EGR system to the fire wall. Look at my pictures posted above. Everything still runs like a champ and pushing 13.6lbs of boost. All the kits are a waste of money.
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Has anyone experienced part throttle hesitation after this mod? I wouldn't even say it's hesitation but just a very slight studder, almost like the throttle is way too sensitive.
Idle and WOT are fine but in between seems a little touchy. I've double checked the configuration of all the lines and I'm certain they're correct. I had the car tuned as it currently sits and it made awesome power and wasn't lean. Maybe just a loose connection?
Idle and WOT are fine but in between seems a little touchy. I've double checked the configuration of all the lines and I'm certain they're correct. I had the car tuned as it currently sits and it made awesome power and wasn't lean. Maybe just a loose connection?
whats your set up? what kind of power are you making? need more info to help you out. when are you getting the hesitation? when you first get on it or between shifts? if its between shifts, it probably the pprv. if its when you firts get on it, its probably in your tune.
513rwhp 485rwtq
tb/plen, port, 2.8, mafia, bap, intake, cat-back and tune
I'm used to the pprv issue, this is just during part throttle. I'm going to re-check all of the zip ties to make sure everything is sealed properly before I look at the tune, but do you know specifically what needs to be adressed in the tune?
tb/plen, port, 2.8, mafia, bap, intake, cat-back and tune
I'm used to the pprv issue, this is just during part throttle. I'm going to re-check all of the zip ties to make sure everything is sealed properly before I look at the tune, but do you know specifically what needs to be adressed in the tune?
SciFiHiFi, try disconnecting the battery for about 30 seconds or so. Then restart the car. Let it idle with the AC off for about 60 seconds, then with the AC on for about 60 seconds. Next without shutting the car off, go out and drive around for about 10 miles normal driving.
If this does not help the situation then it was not embedded in the short and long term fuel trims. If it does fix the problem then it was. The above process gets the car to relearn these fuel trims for the current set up. There is a possibility that the old set up is slightly different at part throttle on the fuel and the car just needs to relearn it.
If this does not help the situation then it was not embedded in the short and long term fuel trims. If it does fix the problem then it was. The above process gets the car to relearn these fuel trims for the current set up. There is a possibility that the old set up is slightly different at part throttle on the fuel and the car just needs to relearn it.
No, all of those kits disable the actual bypass actuator and valve. What we are doing here with this mod is disabling the boost bypass solenoid and giving the bypass actuator a boost/vacuum line instead of a vacuum only line.
Once again, if you disable the bypass valve and actuator then the blower will run very high temperatures when out of boost because you need the bypass valve to get rid of the extra air when not boosting.
I just took a look at your delete work on the side of the blower. Looks great. However, I have one observation for you that is unrelated to the topic. The Intake set up you are running has got the MAF meter to close after the bend in the intake pipe. People figured out a while back that this causes turbulence in the air going into the meter and issues with accurate readings. This is why the only in fender set ups that work properly are the ones that either have the sensor in the fender right behind the filter, or they have the sensor way up in front of the throttle body so that the air has a chance to smooth out.
Planter
Banned
so I'm just wondering...does this still apply if you've done the EGR delete?
That set up you are referring to was just used to get the car running. I have recently changed that. I am now running a 14inch air K&N air filter that runs straight into the MAF, then into the stock intake tube. I do not have that bend into the fender any more. Thanks for your observation. :rockon:
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