Anabolic
Banned
engine's overbore'd .010, arp studs, aftermarket bearings, manly 8.5 pistons, whipple blower. stock crank/rods
just wanted to try a different viscosity. lol
no issues with it yet
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how much oil and what weight are you using
- Thread starter trickability
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engine's overbore'd .010, arp studs, aftermarket bearings, manly 8.5 pistons, whipple blower. stock crank/rods
just wanted to try a different viscosity. lol
no issues with it yet
01cobravortech
Banned
7qts and Amsoil filter.
Amsoil 0W-30 in the winter and Amsoil 10W-30 in the summer. Cobra at 78K and just getting better and better with age.
Amsoil 0W-30 in the winter and Amsoil 10W-30 in the summer. Cobra at 78K and just getting better and better with age.
Ford says 6 quarts of 5W-20.
These engines originally took and were designed for a 5W30, prior to CAFE penalties that prompted Ford to start using 5W20.
Most of us know this and have been using 5W30, and because 6.5 is more centered on the fill mark of the stick, most of us use 6.5 quarts.
Cars under a factory warranty need to use an API licensed oil.
Cars NOT UNDER WARRANTY would benefit greatly from the higher protection available from a "non-API performance oil" that has more anti wear protection than what is currently allowed.
Many oil companies now offer non-API performance oils or racing oils, that our exhaust valve guides would live longer with.
Open Track, HPDE, Time Trials, and auto crossers should be using a 7 quart fill, due to known drain back issues, sustained high rpm and oil pickup starvation issues.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...ra-terminator-oil-fluids-recommendations.html
Thanks for the info helps a lot....
4 and 1/2 quarts Mobil 1 0W-30, and 2 quarts Mobil 1 0W-30 racing oil.
Ford Racing Oil Filter
Ford Racing Oil Filter
Same here, along with a Motorcraft filter.
5w20 Full Synthetic Motorcraft, 6 quarts
ahh I use to be here to on my 97 cobra with my moroso t-pan and oil filter location with larger filter. man was that a expensive change LOL but did it every 4500miles LOL.
im 5w-30 mobile1 with 6qt about to switch to ams-oil
The OEM lash adjusters are NOT designed to work with that heavy of an oil. Not to mention the tight bearing clearences on these engines. Deviating too much from what the engine is designed for could cause lash adjusters to pump up, causing valvetrain instability.
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9qts of JGR HR-2 conventional oil as still part of the on-going break-in process, but I too have Canton road race oil pan. If I flush/vacuum pump the oil system it's about 10.5qts due to the cooler. My filter is a Canton specific filter in a machined housing.
7 quarts 5W30 Valv Synpower
I agree 10W30 is the MAX I'd go Anabolic, 20W50 is the wrong weight plus the heads hold a lot of oil during WOT pulls..
Motor craft 5w-30 synthetic blend for the win!!!!!!!!
6 quarts 0-30 full synthetic on the last change.
Ive broken the motor in the last 6k miles on 5w30 Pennsoil, and just this past weekend switched it over to 5w30 Royal Purple. It cranks over much much easier now. Since I have a relocated oil filter it takes 8 quarts at the full line. I'm using -10 hoses and a K&N replacement for a FL1A, but I plan to change my oil filter boss as it keeps leaking and upgrade to -12 in the process
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6 quarts of Royal Purple 5w-20
8.8 qt. 5w20 mobil 1 synthetic motorcraft filter (moroso deep sump,twin turbo, scavenger pump) changed about every 2k miles.
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Putting in 7qts of Amsoil 5W-30 Signature Series in this weekend with their EA filter. Can anyone shed some light on being able to go 15k without a change? It says 25k for n/a cars and 15 for boosted and hard driven ones but I really doubt that we could go that long given the abuse most of these cars get.
01cobravortech
Banned
Send a pm to Unleashed Beast. I'm too lazy to search his posts for your answer but he's covered it before. He'll gladly answer you. Real nice guy and knows his oil.
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