Hit another brick wall in my rebuild...

[captthunderpnts]

looks like an SAI plug possibly. That is in the right area too

It's SAI. Mines deleted and the plugs laying to the side. I removed it out of a friends 98 cobra termi swap car.

Alright - I like the decisive suggestions here.

Now, onto my no fuel issue...

Which wire at the inertia switch can I jump with 12v to test my fuel pump? Just trying to avoid going into a parts buying spiral, because the nickel and diming will turn into hundreds and fiftys pretty quick.

 

[lastdeployment]

I went through a similar issue when I put the first engine in my 97. The pump would prime when I turned the key to on (and then stop as it should). It would not pump at all when I tried starting the car though (PATS in action). It's easy enough to have a tuner turn it off in the tune. Verify your fuses are good for the pump as well.
Even if it turns out to be your CCRM, that's a pretty easy fix as well. It just bolts up under the passenger side front fender.

 

[captthunderpnts]

I went through a similar issue when I put the first engine in my 97. The pump would prime when I turned the key to on (and then stop as it should). It would not pump at all when I tried starting the car though (PATS in action). It's easy enough to have a tuner turn it off in the tune. Verify your fuses are good for the pump as well.
Even if it turns out to be your CCRM, that's a pretty easy fix as well. It just bolts up under the passenger side front fender.

Is the theft light blinking at all during cranking?

I verified that the Theft light does blink while I try to crank it. By the by, I have replaced the fuel pump with an Aviator pump (definitely was not drop in, for those interested in doing that swap), and tonight I replaced the CCRM just for fun.

So at this point, it's either the PATS system has forgotten about my keys, or there is a fabled second fuel pump relay that's supposedly behind the glove box that has gone bad.

1. Does anyone have an easy way to disable PATS, or am I stuck towing this thing to the stealership and getting my pants pulled down over the price of a key reprogram?

I did find this while scouring the interwebs:

http://www.fordf150.net/howto/patskey.php

Can anyone vouch for Method B, and tell me if I fall into that category (Build was March 1998)

2. Let's say it is the other relay...WHERE IS IT?

As always, thank you in advance.

 

[mwolson]

That relay is hard to find, behind the glove box. But that relay can't be causing your problem. All that relay does is short out the resistor in series with the fuel pump when the engine is at high RPMs. If that relay were not working the car would start and run fine. It just wouldn't get enough fuel at high RPMs. The PCM monitors the fuel pump voltage and, if the relay isn't working, it sets a DTC.

Bottom line, nothing about that relay could cause the car not to start.

 

[Blackbox19]

I can not help you on most of what you asked. But you can verify the pump is working by going to rear of car and looking up at the rear bumper area and you will see the connector going to the pump. Its just 2 wires. Disconnect it and using the harness going into the tank, I took a battery and some small wires and jumper-ed the pump there.

I have a return system on mine and ran it both ways to clean the lines. Just reverse polarity. But either way you do it, you should hear it run.

 

[IronSnake]

A simple test light will enlighten you as to whether you're picking up voltage at the pump or not. I would start there, and work your way back. Work in the most constructive and consistent way possible, that way you can check off whats good. It may even be a break in a wire (never throw that possibility out). You just need to figure out where.

 

[captthunderpnts]

Allllright. I got the pump situation figured out - ended up being the CCRM.

Now, I got the car cranked for the first time and tried to take it out on its maiden voyage, but as it turns out, it will not idle when cold, and it backfires like mad when warm and cruising at 40mph.

Do I need some kind of base tune for the break-in procedure? The following changes were made to the stock engine during my build:

4.6l to 4.75 @ .020 overbore
EGR delete
SAI delete
IMRC delete
Aviator fuel pump

I'm fairly certain that it's running pig rich right now, as a plume of black smoke fills my garage when it finally fires.

 

[bergz22]

I had to get my car tuned before I actually ran it down the road. It wouldn't idle at all until I got it warmed up. I deleted the emissions stuff just like you did, only I put in big cams too. I was told it was ok to run and drive it without a tune, but to drive it gently until I got it tuned.

 

[Communistwookie]

Dyno results or bust!