Help with taking off lower pulley and cage.
- Thread starter j-tan
- Start date
Heat becareful you dont melt the rubber bushings.. You can do it with a propane hand held torch heat the balancer if you can for about five min. Done it a few times with out melting any seals.
I used a long breaker bar and used a floor jack to put pressure on bar .
^ This use a breaker bar with the floor jack putting pressure on the handle. Sometimes this is not even enough. To remove mine I had to use the jack to put pressure on the breaker bar, and at the same time I took a 2ft pipe and a 2 pound hammer and hit the spokes to break it loose.
Just be really careful when doing it this way because the breaker bar will be releasing a ton of pressure when it finally comes loose. I broke mine loose by doing this on the first try after trying about an hr with only the breaker bar and the floor jack.
Just be really careful when doing it this way because the breaker bar will be releasing a ton of pressure when it finally comes loose. I broke mine loose by doing this on the first try after trying about an hr with only the breaker bar and the floor jack.
Remember, it threads out clock wise. Just the opposite of normal threads.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/582428-removing-stock-lower-pulley.html
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/582428-removing-stock-lower-pulley.html
ive found that locking drivetrain at trans yoke makes this a lot easier than what most suggestion have been.
a pipe wrench on trans yoke/bar thru yoke will hold ....
the other way all your doing is twisting the driveline back to the tires un till car stops moving than the force starts to loosen that nut...it take to much torque to do that this is why your tool broke....
a 2ft breaker bar is all thats needed....
i have bad bushings on mine and i have to take pulley off every couple of months to install new rubber..im ready for a new/used 1..
what im trying to say is ive had mine off alot and found this to be the easiest working alone....
a pipe wrench on trans yoke/bar thru yoke will hold ....
the other way all your doing is twisting the driveline back to the tires un till car stops moving than the force starts to loosen that nut...it take to much torque to do that this is why your tool broke....
a 2ft breaker bar is all thats needed....
i have bad bushings on mine and i have to take pulley off every couple of months to install new rubber..im ready for a new/used 1..
what im trying to say is ive had mine off alot and found this to be the easiest working alone....
I just took one off of an engine that was on a stand.
I heated the center of the allen socket with a small propane torch until it was reading 350 degrees with my temp gun and it came loose with surprisingly little effort. I doubt if it took more than 75 pounds of force to break it loose.
The heat is what made the difference.
And very little heat spread out into the pulley or the "spider" that has the bearing. Hottest temp I measured anywhere near the rubber (actually a harder plastic) bushings was 137 degrees. I bet it gets hotter than that while you are driving the car.
I heated the center of the allen socket with a small propane torch until it was reading 350 degrees with my temp gun and it came loose with surprisingly little effort. I doubt if it took more than 75 pounds of force to break it loose.
The heat is what made the difference.
And very little heat spread out into the pulley or the "spider" that has the bearing. Hottest temp I measured anywhere near the rubber (actually a harder plastic) bushings was 137 degrees. I bet it gets hotter than that while you are driving the car.
that write-up kicks ass
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