Help with gears???

[MADGREEK]

I have both and the 03 irs ,is better then the 07 solid rear.

 

[ON D BIT]

i just have one question for all those stock 99-04 irs fanatics!

if the irs so good why does bruce have this in his sig??????:shrug: :idea: ;-)

Greetings Fellow Stangers:

I'm not sure what happened to the original post I had here? Must have been a victim of the reconfiguration? I figured I would post this up in here to see if there was any interest?

I have just finished the latest production run of the newly redesigned bushing set. Just in time for racing season!! There is a link to the complete thread (over in the "R" section) at the bottom of this post.

The price of the set is $595.00 delivery included. We are not going to try and hold the sales to complete sets like previously. Any and everything you want is not a problem.

I can tell you two things. #1 if you are changing your car from completely stock to this set-up, you will be astounded with the difference. #2 if you ever had to deal with bushings from brand "N" supplier you will be doing cartwheels installing these. I guarantee it.

Here is a photo of the new Delrin Upper Control Arm Bushing set with the new inner sleeves showing the Hardcoat anti-wear coating.

This is the newly redesigned Delrin Lower Control Arm Bushing set complete with Hardcoated aluminum inner sleeves and stainless steel shimming washers:

This the the UHMW subframe set with four .125" aluminum shimming washers and four .048" stainless steel shimming washers:

Here are the diff mounts. The front aluminum diff mounts with aluminum washers to set the pinion angle and the rear Delrin diff mount that utilizes the OEM bracket once the rubber is removed:

Here is the breakdown on the individual pricing. These prices include destination freight to your door:

$50.00 Aluminum Front diff supports w/Aluminum shimming washers to set pinion angle

$60.00 Delrin Rear Diff support

$99.00 Complete UHMW IRS Cradle support set including four thick aluminum and four thin stainless steel shimming washers

$399.00 Complete Delrin control arm set including hardcoated aluminum inner sleeves. Uppers only $125.00 - lowers only $284.00 (You get a $10.00 price break buying the complete control arm set)

This pricing is including destination freight via UPS or Fed-Ex ground service.

***Also now available***

3-16-07 EDIT****

9/16" bolts substitute for the Ford 14mm bolts saves half the price!

I now have a Grade 8, 9/16" bolt, nylock nut and two washers. These are $9.00 a pair for everything you need. A much more affordable alternative.

END 3-16-07 EDIT *****


***EDIT 4-8-07****

Removal tools now available to rent!

These removal tools will make this job INFINITELY easier! epper: These tools are available for the paltry rental fee of $5.00 with a $30.00 deposit to make sure I get them back. I have two sets available. I am also working on a set of tools for purchase. Most likely the purchase price of the tools will be approximately $35.00 for the set.

If you have any questions, I'll be happy to answer them.


****Added 5-13-07****

Hey Guys:

I'd like to post a few quick comments here. I seem to be answering a lot of the same questions regarding the kit so I'm going to try and address a few of them here.

Q: "Why does my car wheel hop?"
A: The reason your car wheel hops is because of all of the rubber in the differential mounts, control arm bushings and the subframe mounts. It oscillates between traction and slip when it hops. If you remove the "give" (rubber) it can no longer do that. Some tires can increase and or decrease hop to a certain extent.


Q: "Why does the ass end of my car feel so squirrelly when I mash on the fun pedal?"
A: Mainly from all of the rubber in the entire IRS assembly. Your wheels are mounted to the rear knuckles and the knuckles are mounted to the subframe via control arms with rubber bushings in four places. (two places on the upper control arm and two places on the lower control arm) When you mash the gas, this pushes the lower control arms forward and compresses the rubber bushings. The upper control arms are along for the ride. Keep in mind the whole subframe assembly is also mounted to the chassis in rubber and who knows what direction the tires are pointing at this point. By removing the all of the rubber, your rear tires will gain control of their direction and you will feel the ass end plant in a much more controlled manner.


Q: "What does NVH stand for?"
A: NVH is Noise, Vibration and Harsness. It's a key design criteria for new cars these days. Americans like nice cushy quiet rides. But us "Car Guys" want our power to get to the pavement in the most efficient manner possible. So, bye-bye rubber!!!


Q: "How much increase in NVH will I see with this kit?"
A: The change in NVH will hardly be noticeable with the exception of the aluminum front differential mounts. They are a tad on the noisy side. Worse if you have 4:10 gears. If you have an aftermarket exhaust that's loud, it will help mask the noise from the diff mounts. Some have used the sound deadening matting available at car stereo shops to minimize the sound. It's a self adhesive matting you put down on the floor pan right above the differential.


Q: "How bad will the noise level be with 4:10's?"
A: 4:10's are definitely going to raise the noise level particularly with the Aluminum front diff mounts. If you have loud aftermarket exhaust, that will help. Some people put down Dynomat on the floorpan above the differential and that seems to help a lot. Some say it's noisy, and others have said it's not bad. It's like asking what the best beer is. You won't get the same answer from any two people. :beer:


Q: Do I need level 5 halfshafts?"
A: Most likely not. Have you broken any of the Ford halfshafts? If you answered yes, then possibly?


Q: Do I need sub frame connectors?"
A: Yes, an SN-95 chassis needs a good Maximum Motorsports Full Length Sub Frame Connector. Commonly known as MMFLSFC's. They make the best one IMHO. You just won't be able to do a side exhaust if you ever want to. These are absolutely necessary with a convertible,


Q: Why do I need the 9/16" bolts and where do they go?"
A: Your car came from the factory with a 12mm bolt holding the front portion of the subframe into the chassis. This attachment point has the capability of accepting a 14mm bolt or a 9/16" bolt. The 14mm bolts are insanely expensive from Ford and that is why I have substituted the 9/16" grade 8 bolt in it's place. This kit is all about getting the job done as economically as possibly without sacrificing quaility or integrity in any way shape or form.


Q: "What am I not getting with your kit?"
A: There is NOTHING you're not getting with this kit. I don't offer bump steer kits at this time. Those are included in some of the more expensive MM Grip Box packages.


Q: "What does your kit offer that I'm not getting from the MM kit?"
A: #1 This kit has an anti-wear Hardcoat on the aluminum inner sleeves. You don't get that with the MM kit. #2 The MM kit only has a polyurethane (poly) subframe bushings. Poly is only marginally better than the OEM rubber that originally came in the car from the factory. The UHMW pieces you get with this kit will hold your subframe infinitely more firmly than a poly bushing. This is important for the elimination of wheel hop.


Q: "What is UHMW?"
A: UHMW is Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethelene. It's a great material and there are certain reasons I chose it for the subframe bushings. I could tell you but then I'd have to ..................... Oh nevermind! ;-)


Q: "How hard is this job? I'm comfortable doing a clutch job."
A: If you can do a clutch, you can do this. The more tools you have at your disposal the better. Get a competent friend to help. Supply the food and beer. It will be worth it.


Q: "How long will the job take?"
A: This job is a considerable undertaking. It requires some car wrenching skills and an assistant. An assistant will make the job go much better. Two heads are always better than one. If you start on a Friday after work, you should have the IRS out of the car in a couple of hours. You can finish the night taking apart the IRS for the bushing install. Saturday you will spend installing the bushings, reassembling the IRS and hopfully getting the IRS assembly back in the car. Speed depends a LOT on the people doing the job and the amount of tools/equipment at your disposal. You always have Sunday to finish up in case you run into some snags. If you can locate someone that's done the job once or twice before you might be able to knock the job out in 6-8 hours.


Q: "How important is bumpsteering the IRS?"
A: Bumpsteering the IRS after this bushing install is like putting icing on a cake. It's not critical for drag racing but if you like to Corner Carve it will help quite a bit. It's more for the efficiency of cornering and having your ass end planted.


Q: "Are there instructions included?"
A: Yes. The kit now comes with FOUR pages of VERY comprehensive detailed installation instructions. I'm working on getting some photos up but that's going to be a while.



Take the savings you'd save by buying this kit and put it towards a rear bump steer kit. MM makes a good one.

I will be adding to this from time to time so stay tuned and check back if you're still in the deciding mode.

:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:

Bruce

 

[ac427cobra]

i just have one question for all those stock 99-04 irs fanatics!

if the irs so good why does bruce have this in his sig??????:shrug: :idea: ;-)

Thanks for the additional exposure! :thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:

 

[Stripe Delete]

I run 4.10s with a 28.7 inch tire which equates to about a 3.90 gear and I think it is perfect on the street and strip. Any smaller (shorter) tire and I would go 3.90 or 3.73s. Im at 2200 rpms @ 70mph now.
I was surprized at how much the jiggly bouncey crap went away with just the lower control arms and upper 3rd link replaced.
I personally love the solid axle. Breaking halfshafts doesnt appeal to me.

 

[ac427cobra]

I run 4.10s with a 28.7 inch tire which equates to about a 3.90 gear and I think it is perfect on the street and strip. Any smaller (shorter) tire and I would go 3.90 or 3.73s. Im at 2200 rpms @ 70mph now.
I was surprized at how much the jiggly bouncey crap went away with just the lower control arms and upper 3rd link replaced.
I personally love the solid axle. Breaking halfshafts doesnt appeal to me.

I am toying with the idea of experimenting with my Shelby SRA by making some Delrin for the LCA's and UCA utilizing the Ford components. :idea:

 

[Stripe Delete]

I am toying with the idea of experimenting with my Shelby SRA by making some Delrin for the LCA's and UCA utilizing the Ford components. :idea:

The bushing seem to be the only real issue. If you could "box" the factory lower control arms to prevent any flex they would probably suffice as well.:shrug:

 

[eichisama]

Didn't Evo try harder bushings and say they actually harmed performance? I know _someone_ said this about the GT500... Then again, I know you've got solid experience with this, Bruce! :beer:

 

[ac427cobra]

The bushing seem to be the only real issue. If you could "box" the factory lower control arms to prevent any flex they would probably suffice as well.:shrug:

IMHO right now the arms flex so much because of the mushy bushings! :fart: I think if you had a decent bushing, the arm might possibly be ok!!?? We shall see? :-D

 

[chuckstang]

I was trying to tell people on stangsunleashed to try simple things first like just replacing the LCA or even just the bushings first if that is even available. Get on that Bruce!
Sometimes people over mod because their brain is turned to mush by all the parts available for the Mustang.

 

[jayiii]

Great thread. I'm a newbie to the mustang world, and just so happened that I fell in love with the 2007 GT500, and decided on it for my first mustang. I know, crazy, but I am a quick learner and I've taken to the mustang world somethin fierce. I've decided on the 3.90 gears. That gives me the best of both worlds I believe. I'm planning on running with the BFG G-Force KDW tires on the street, and the MT ET Streets for the track. Great explanation on the whole gear ratio effect guys; yall have helped me a bunch.