If you drive it...you don't need to put it on the tender.
Many GT500s sit for a long time and need to be hooked up.
Many GT500s sit for a long time and need to be hooked up.
Help, my Shelby is not starting. I have a light on the dash with a little car and a lock that's flashing. What does that mean?
- Thread starter MustangSteve1965
- Start date
Truth. Bust it out once a week and you’ll not have any issues. If you got long winters… you’re gonna need a battery tender.
Then I wonder if I have some parasitic drain. I’ll have to check that out.
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Here's some helpful info for you since you're asking how and why the battery might drain to the point of needing replacement when it isn't that old.
thecarinvestor.com
Will Your Car Battery Die If you Don't Drive It?
When cars are driven regularly, the alternator keeps the battery charge topped up. But it’s not always practical or possible for some people to drive their
thecarinvestor.com
Here's some helpful info for you since you're asking how and why the battery might drain to the point of needing replacement when it isn't that old.
Will Your Car Battery Die If you Don't Drive It?
When cars are driven regularly, the alternator keeps the battery charge topped up. But it’s not always practical or possible for some people to drive their
Thank you Bob!
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As mentioned earlier, the newer vehicles have so much shit on that battery. It doesnt take that long to impact it. especially if its an older battery.
Batteries last 3 years here, then, poof. Heat flipping kills them. SOB's don't give any warning either, no slow cranking, just click, click...
Truth! If I get anymore than 3 years on a battery I’m happy. All my cars have a tender on them when not in use.
I only drove my Mustang on the weekends and the tender helped. It would be dead if I didn't sometimes. You can attach the quick connect on most tenders to make it an easier although not much easier process.
Yes, I tried going the recharging route on the existing battery because O'Reilly's said the cell was fine, and drove it Wednesday. Parked it and yesterday the battery was dead.
Just went and got a brand new battery and my CTEK tender arrived from Amazon so I'm just going to hook it up any time I'm not using it.
Also you are used to older mustangs, when you’re not driving this car do you leave the hood up? Small things like that kill the battery and as already stated these new cars are very sensitive to low voltage.
New battery and the tender you purchased should be the right answer.
-J
New battery and the tender you purchased should be the right answer.
-J
Thanks. No, I leave the hood closed. I’m also now making sure I turn off the audio and climate and I’m not setting the alarm. The car is locked in the garage anyway.
I’m also turning off the lights instead of leaving them on auto.
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The reality is that you shouldn’t have to do that but glad it’s working well.
-J
I know, right? You would think with a modern muscle car you wouldn’t have to worry about things like that, LOL.
I mean my 70 Mach1, yea, there were little gremlins all the time. But that was an old car even when I had it 18 years ago.
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I do and I also know you have a special car that’s worth keeping and struggling thru whatever it takes to keep running. At least that’s how I feel about my ‘14 when she is running right and I’m rowing gears or just cruising.
-J
You possible have a parasitic battery drain issue going on thats not allowing your modules to go into sleep mode once the car is turned off. A simple test would confirm if this exist. You should be drawing less than 50ma once the vehicle has been turned off and the modules go into sleep mode. Its roughly after 75 minutes.
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Without a doubt! It’s an incredible car!
Race red and white stripes was hard to find!
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Thank you.
Would that be with the battery or the car?
I did replace the battery.
If it’s the car, how would I check it?
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Here is how the test is performed: If you need help
Parasitic Battery Drain test
Check
NOTE: No factory-equipped vehicle should have more than a 25 mA (0.025 amp) – 50 mA (0.050) draw depending on the vehicle's accessories. Check for current drains on the battery in excess of 25 mA (0.025 amp) – 50 mA (0.050) with all the electrical accessories off and the vehicle at rest for at least 75 minutes (depending on region). Current drains can be tested with the following procedure.
NOTE: Many electronic modules draw 10 mA (0.010 amp) or more continuously.
NOTE: Typically, a drain of approximately 1 amp is attributed to an engine compartment lamp, glove compartment lamp or interior lamp staying on continually. Other component failures or wiring shorts are located by selectively pulling fuses to pinpoint the location of the current drain. When the current drain is found, the meter reading falls to an acceptable level.
NOTE: To accurately test the drain on a battery, use an in-line ammeter between the negative battery post and its respective cable. Use of a test lamp or voltmeter is not an accurate method.
- If equipped, disable the approach detection feature.
- Make sure the fuse box(es) are accessible without turning on the interior lights or the underhood lights.
- Drive the vehicle for at least 5 minutes over 48 km/h (30 mph) to activate the vehicle systems.
- NOTE: If equipped with an automatic transmission and the vehicle has an IPC PRNDL indicator, verify the gear selector lever is in the park position and is operating correctly. A fault in the park position indicator circuit can prevent modules from transitioning to sleep mode.
- Connect a fused jumper wire (30A) between the negative battery cable and the negative battery post to prevent modules from resetting.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable from the negative battery post without breaking the connection of the fused jumper wire.
- NOTE: It is important that continuity is not broken between the battery and the negative battery cable when connecting the meter. If this happens, repeat the time out/power down procedure.
Connect a meter between the negative battery cable terminal and the negative battery post.
- NOTE: If the meter settings need to be switched or the test leads need to be moved to another outlet, reinstall the fused jumper wire to avoid breaking continuity.
- If equipped with auxiliary battery(s), ensure that the auxiliary battery(s) are disconnected when measuring current draw at the primary battery, to ensure the meter or inductive amp probe measures all current draws present. Disconnect the auxiliary battery(s).
Refer to: Battery Disconnect and Connect (414-01) . - Note the amperage draw. Draw varies from vehicle to vehicle depending on the equipment package. Compare to a similar vehicle for reference.
- NOTE: If the vehicle sits for an extended period of time and the battery drains, there is the possibility of a control module staying alive and not going into sleep mode. If a control module stays alive, it can result in battery drain. If a control module is suspected, isolate individual modules by disconnecting them one at a time and note if the excessive draw goes away.
NOTE: Vehicles may be equipped with multiple fuse box locations.
If the current draw is excessive, remove the fuses from the main fuse box one at a time and note the current drop.
- When the current level drops to an acceptable level after removing a fuse, the circuit containing the excessive draw has been located. Reinstall the fuse and allow the vehicle to sit with the key out of the ignition for at least 75 minutes (depending on region) to allow the modules to time out/power down again.
- The excessive draw can be isolated by continuing to pull subsystem fuses and disconnecting components. Do not reinstall the fuses or connect components until testing is finished. To correctly isolate each of the circuits, all of the fuses may need to be removed, then install one fuse and note the amperage draw, remove the fuse and install the next fuse. Continue this process with each fuse.
- If excessive current draw is isolated to a specific module, verify if a module input is the cause of the concern. Refer to the corresponding workshop manual system operation and component description section to determine the inputs (hardwired or network messages) received by the module in question.
- Check the Wiring Diagrams manual for any circuits that run from the battery without passing through the main fuse box or other fuse box(es). If the current draw is still excessive, disconnect these circuits until the draw is found. Disconnect the generator(s) electrical connections and retest if the draw cannot be located. The generator(s) may be internally shorted, causing the current drain.
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Turn the radio off when you park.
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