Head Gasket is dead.. What to do while the motor is open ?

[MaxSimoneau]

So I will change my head gaskets...
I know I need to get new head bolts, check the heads and the valves.
I Won'T buy ARP Head Studs because I think it isn't worth it since I won't go higher than 18-19 PSI.

I will powdercoat the valve covers at the same time and I am still arguing if I buy Longtube headers or not..
I will do the head cooling mod also.

Any other things I Should do/change while the motor is in parts ?
Are porting the heads worth it ?

Any tips to remove the engine from the car? (I don't have a lift)

Thanks a lot for all your answers!
:banana::banana:

 

[Juiced46]

Buy the head studs. If it ever has to come apart again, they are re useable. Its not that much more $$$.

How do you know your headgaskets are bad?

I would upgrade to the metal primary chain tensioners and ditch the plastic ones. They came on 96-98 Cobras.

I always pull the engine from the top with the transmission attached.

What mods are on the car now? If you are considering porting the heads and doing nothing else (valve train, cams proper cam degreeing) you may not see much of a gain.

 

[NastyNate420]

HEAD STUDS!
and Degree the cams

 

[hotcobra03]

I pulled mine engine only straight up with a come a long on a tree branch..

trans stayed in car..

I did have to buy a large engine stand and modify bracket to fit bolt pattern..


I have bbk long tubes..last time I did head in car..was able to leave header attached to head.


Also what issues are you having that says head gasket?

 

[cj428mach]

I agree to go with studs as well, I believe the difference in cost is only about $100. I've had to loosen my studs 3 times since installation, that would have been 3 sets of TTY bolts.

 

[SID297]

Oil pump gears.

 

[MaxSimoneau]

Buy the head studs. If it ever has to come apart again, they are re useable. Its not that much more $$$.

How do you know your headgaskets are bad?

I would upgrade to the metal primary chain tensioners and ditch the plastic ones. They came on 96-98 Cobras.

I always pull the engine from the top with the transmission attached.

What mods are on the car now? If you are considering porting the heads and doing nothing else (valve train, cams proper cam degreeing) you may not see much of a gain.

I did a LeakDown Test and coolant was leaking out of the expansion tank.
There is enough room to pull engine from top with headers and trans ?
I am running a TVS with 3.0'' Pulley on 91 octane

 

[MaxSimoneau]

I pulled mine engine only straight up with a come a long on a tree branch..

trans stayed in car..

I did have to buy a large engine stand and modify bracket to fit bolt pattern..


I have bbk long tubes..last time I did head in car..was able to leave header attached to head.


Also what issues are you having that says head gasket?

Is it easy to unbolt the trans to the engine ?
When in boost, coolant was leaking from the expansion tank cap. I replace the cap and burped and still leaked. So I did a compression and leak down test.

I agree to go with studs as well, I believe the difference in cost is only about $100. I've had to loosen my studs 3 times since installation, that would have been 3 sets of TTY bolts.

Please help me. I don't see the 100$ difference. Maybe I am not looking at the right head bolts/studs sets. I can get Felpro TTY Bolts for like 120$ for both sides. ARP are around 400$..

 

[R.D.P.]

No way I would skip doing head studs. I would do the MMR rear head cooling mod if the engine is going to be out. Cleaner install and look.

 

[01yellercobra]

This is the stud kit I used on my last engine.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-156-4101/overview/make/ford

There's enough room to pull from the top. When I had a 3650 in my 01 I would pull the engine and trans together. But with the T-56 I unbolt the engine from the bellhousing and drop the trans. Then I pull the engine with the bellhousing still attached.

 

[NastyNate420]

I prefer dropping the engine and trans out the bottom. this is on my Mach so no blower. drop it on a few rolling dollys and come out the wheel well. get the rear on some jack stands and use a cherry picker to lift the stang from the front.

 

[cj428mach]

This is the stud kit I used on my last engine.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-156-4101/overview/make/ford

There's enough room to pull from the top. When I had a 3650 in my 01 I would pull the engine and trans together. But with the T-56 I unbolt the engine from the bellhousing and drop the trans. Then I pull the engine with the bellhousing still attached.

Thats what I got and about what I spent. American Muscle carries them and you get free shipping and a 6% discount.

 

[SinisterMustang]

So I will change my head gaskets...
I know I need to get new head bolts, check the heads and the valves.
I Won'T buy ARP Head Studs because I think it isn't worth it since I won't go higher than 18-19 PSI.

I will powdercoat the valve covers at the same time and I am still arguing if I buy Longtube headers or not..
I will do the head cooling mod also.

Any other things I Should do/change while the motor is in parts ?
Are porting the heads worth it ?

Any tips to remove the engine from the car? (I don't have a lift)

Thanks a lot for all your answers!
:banana::banana:

Shoot me a PM for a price on the ARP head studs. I'd be more than happy to give you a competitive price on it.

Longtubes are convenient to add while the motor is out, so is a tubular k-member.

Thanks,

 

[badcobra]

Autoplicity has the best price I've ever seen on ARP Head studs and I took advantage of it last year. ARP 256-4201 2000 series bolts are about $360. Use the coupon code 2offtotal.

http://autoplicity.com/338403-arp-head-studs

 

[hotcobra03]

Is it easy to unbolt the trans to the engine ?
When in boost, coolant was leaking from the expansion tank cap. I replace the cap and burped and still leaked. So I did a compression and leak down test.


Coolant leak only when in boost?

Small tank toward left?


What about normal driving?

 

[MaxSimoneau]

Is it easy to unbolt the trans to the engine ?
When in boost, coolant was leaking from the expansion tank cap. I replace the cap and burped and still leaked. So I did a compression and leak down test.


Coolant leak only when in boost?

Small tank toward left?


What about normal driving?

It is really a bad headgasket. When i did a leakdown on cylinder no5 , coolant was coming out of the expansion tank (the big one , to the right)

 

[holiks03cobra]

My car was doing the same thing and it was a head gasket. I pulled my motor by myself from the top with the headers attached. There is plenty of room to do it this way. I did remove the fan for extra room. I'm in the process of doing a Teksid build. At the very least do head studs, Boundary oil pump gears, Cobra Engineering tensioner.

 

[Juiced46]

I did a LeakDown Test and coolant was leaking out of the expansion tank.
There is enough room to pull engine from top with headers and trans ?
I am running a TVS with 3.0'' Pulley on 91 octane

Depending on what headers are installed, yes you can pull it from the top. A good engine load leveler is a must to get it out when doing this or it will fight you.

If you want to pull the trans first, its not bad at all. Only a few extra bolts. Remove the trans from the bell housing. Leave the bell housing bolted to the engine and you can pull the bell housing & starter off once the engine is out of the car.

Before you slam headgaskets in it. Check the cylinder walls very carefully for cracks. Do you have any pictures of the plugs you pulled out when doing the leakdown?

 

[MaxSimoneau]

Depending on what headers are installed, yes you can pull it from the top. A good engine load leveler is a must to get it out when doing this or it will fight you.

If you want to pull the trans first, its not bad at all. Only a few extra bolts. Remove the trans from the bell housing. Leave the bell housing bolted to the engine and you can pull the bell housing & starter off once the engine is out of the car.

Before you slam headgaskets in it. Check the cylinder walls very carefully for cracks. Do you have any pictures of the plugs you pulled out when doing the leakdown?

Yes I do.

 

[Juiced46]

Hard to tell from the pictures.

Is this a stock untouched engine? Or has it been apart before?