Had a Bendpak XPR-10AXLS lift installed today (pics and process)
- Thread starter Goose17
- Start date
Man that's pretty!
Bad ass!!! Congrats Goose.
A couple of items you will want to purchase early on.
High Lift Jack Stand. Believe it or not, Harbor Freight has a very well-reviewed jack stand. Do a little reading on their website. There are two versions, with one being beefier. They cost the same price. My local store had the weaker version and none of the other. A town 30 miles away had the good one and not the wimpy one. Cost was $70 with coupon.
Oil Change Station. Northern Tools has a really nice unit that has a telescoping height with a metal Funnel/Strainer. Best part is it drains into a container of your choice. I used an old racing fuel can which has a 3" opening and is easy to carry to the auto parts store to empty. That way I don't have to transfer from the catch container to the one I carry. Cost was about $80.
Tom
High Lift Jack Stand. Believe it or not, Harbor Freight has a very well-reviewed jack stand. Do a little reading on their website. There are two versions, with one being beefier. They cost the same price. My local store had the weaker version and none of the other. A town 30 miles away had the good one and not the wimpy one. Cost was $70 with coupon.
Oil Change Station. Northern Tools has a really nice unit that has a telescoping height with a metal Funnel/Strainer. Best part is it drains into a container of your choice. I used an old racing fuel can which has a 3" opening and is easy to carry to the auto parts store to empty. That way I don't have to transfer from the catch container to the one I carry. Cost was about $80.
Tom
Good stuff Tom... I had already ordered both. The stand has a foot lever to jack up and make it snug.
I just checked Northern Tools and the unit is no longer available.
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200379218_200379218?isSearch=141225
It was a good design. Too bad they no longer offer it.
Tom
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200379218_200379218?isSearch=141225
It was a good design. Too bad they no longer offer it.
Tom
https://zl1addons.com/collections/jackpads-magpads/products/mustang-6th-gen-lift-pads-bolt-on
I run these on my car, I went back and forth on whether or not they were worth the money. Installed them once and left them on. I'm going to order another set for my fiancees fiesta ST.
I did bang one on a speed bump I hit too fast after lowering my car. Better than crushing the pinch weld, as it seems to have not made contact anywhere else.
I run these on my car, I went back and forth on whether or not they were worth the money. Installed them once and left them on. I'm going to order another set for my fiancees fiesta ST.
I did bang one on a speed bump I hit too fast after lowering my car. Better than crushing the pinch weld, as it seems to have not made contact anywhere else.
Goose17 said:
In a previous life I worked commercial/heavy construction and concrete was my specialty. I ran into embedded rebar frequently. I'm a bit surprised your at how your installers handled this. I get their point about drilling through in case they have a problem but this isn't the recommended method. The problem is that many times the wedge won't grab as you can spall or "blow out" the base of the slab when drilling through and then pounding the wedge anchor in. The method you saw employed works great for the installers but isn't the best way to do it from a strength perspective.
As for hitting bar in concrete, there are tools to address this quickly and easily. A rebar cutting bit is used in industry for this exact issue. You simply drill with a standard hammer drill bit in the requisite diameter until you hit bar. You then switch to a rebar cutting bit which drills through the steel. Once past the rebar you switch back to the standard concrete bit.
http://www.bamanufacturing.com/page_45.htm
The bar cutting bits are fairly expensive and you will destroy them in short order if you try to drill through concrete with them.
My first set of pucks are the True Forged versions, but I couldn’t get them to respond, so I went with these for my second set:
http://www.vmpperformance.com/ZL1Addons-Premium-Mustang-or-Charger-MagPad-p/zl1-magpad-2.htm
@Tob, the installers had drill bits with a “plus” pattern of teeth that had 2 metal teeth and 2 concrete teeth. I didn’t question them, because they have been installing lifts for a long, long time and haven’t had any problems. I’m sure my lift will outlast me.
The "plus" bits are merely a 4 carbide cutter tipped bit such as this.
The linked bits above can drill through concrete faster than a typical twin cutting bit such as this. You would never mix the steel cutting bit heads with concrete ones on the same drill bit as the steel cutting heads get destroyed in short order when exposed to concrete in a typical rotary hammer.
On Edit...
Interesting, I stand corrected. I see a new offering that is just as you described.
https://www.shop.toolguy.com/9-16-x-12-PENETRATOR-DRILL-BIT-FOR-CONCRETE-AND-STEEL-RD-021087.htm
I can only say that these wouldn't last long in commercial construction and I suspect that is why it took so long to drill through the steel as you mentioned. A bit of a compromise but hey, you use what you have when it's all you have!
The linked bits above can drill through concrete faster than a typical twin cutting bit such as this. You would never mix the steel cutting bit heads with concrete ones on the same drill bit as the steel cutting heads get destroyed in short order when exposed to concrete in a typical rotary hammer.
On Edit...
Interesting, I stand corrected. I see a new offering that is just as you described.
https://www.shop.toolguy.com/9-16-x-12-PENETRATOR-DRILL-BIT-FOR-CONCRETE-AND-STEEL-RD-021087.htm
I can only say that these wouldn't last long in commercial construction and I suspect that is why it took so long to drill through the steel as you mentioned. A bit of a compromise but hey, you use what you have when it's all you have!
Users who are viewing this thread
