Thanks for the write up.:beer:
H&R Race spring install was a breeze...
- Thread starter boosted2000si
- Start date
2 beers and a prybar!!!! thanks for the write up. just did mine in a couple of hours . very easy installation.
I just ordered a set of H&R Race Springs - Thanks for all the write ups and Pics! I think I will retain the org. ISO's. Is anything else necessary to do the job, like installing a CC plate, or is that not needed. I will be sure to get an alignment when I am finshed.
I didnt use my iso's and still to this day do not have CC plates. Still havent even gotten an alingment yet, car pulls perfectly straight and no tire wear on the inside.
how does it ride with the race springs? I'm debating between the H&R race and the H&R sports for my 03, ultimately i want a better ride quality while still getting the drop
my race springs feel great. wanted performance with mine so i got race
I am new to this forum and found it very informative. I had just installed H&R race springs on my '03 Cobra which was a breeze as well. I found this thread pretty helpful, but there are a couple additional items I would suggest.
REARS
1) Don't forget to either remove rear exhast or at least remove bolts holding up the exhaust at the tips and disconnect exhaust hangers. This will allow you to lower the rear IRS. (if it is still pretty hard the swing down, just loosen the two front IRS bolts)
FRONTS
2) Pull the ABS sensor wire from the bracket that is bolted to the frame to allow some slack to the wire to prevent from possibly being yanked out.
3) Don't forget to disconnect the tie rod to eliminate possibly damaging the rack and pinion. This will allow the control arm to swing all the way down with the spring basically just dropping. You can just put the spring right in without any prybars if you are going without ISOs and maybe only about 5-10 lbs of pressure to get the springs in with ISOs.
REARS
1) Don't forget to either remove rear exhast or at least remove bolts holding up the exhaust at the tips and disconnect exhaust hangers. This will allow you to lower the rear IRS. (if it is still pretty hard the swing down, just loosen the two front IRS bolts)
FRONTS
2) Pull the ABS sensor wire from the bracket that is bolted to the frame to allow some slack to the wire to prevent from possibly being yanked out.
3) Don't forget to disconnect the tie rod to eliminate possibly damaging the rack and pinion. This will allow the control arm to swing all the way down with the spring basically just dropping. You can just put the spring right in without any prybars if you are going without ISOs and maybe only about 5-10 lbs of pressure to get the springs in with ISOs.
boosted2000si said:After reading all these horror stories, I was very hesitant to get my springs installed. After a few mention how easy it was, and a few mentioned it was a big PITA, I said what the hell and tackled it.
There is hope out there guys, if you can change your brakes, you can change your springs.
It was more of a PITA to install my H/E, that it was to put these springs on. No need for a spring compressor, special tools, a friend or anything. I complete this job on my garage floor, by myself, with normal tools.
I left the rear ISO's on for that slight rake look, but I still have to go hang my exhaust and put it on the ground and Ill take some pics. I was going to take pics of the process, but dont have a shitty camera.
My quick method for those that search and find this thread.
1. Get the car on 4 jack stands (if you only have 2, then do the front and then the rear.) Get all the tires off
FRONT
2. starting in the front, get the calipers off. That little pin in the back with the c clip will do the trick. I tucked them up behind the struts and set them on that ledge up there. Then take the abs line and under it from the double hook, so it has slack.
3. Take the sway bar off, remove it from the top of the rod.
4. Jack up the side your working on with your jack under the spring perch
5. using an allen key and an open box wrench, take the struts off from the top under the hood. Take the bolt, metal plate, and bushing and set it all to the side so it doesnt get lost.
6. Lower the jack
7. Pry a little bit to get the springs out, but it will pop right out. Its not under extreme pressure any more so you dont have to worry about it flying out.
8. Now it was slightly tricky to pry the new springs in, but I just used a pry bar on the boot of the spring and used the hole in the middle of the perch to pry it in. Didn’t take a lot of effort but its not going to jump in itself. Defiantly not a big deal though.
9. Once you get the springs in, jack the lower a arm back up into place watching the top of the strut and making sure it goes back in the hole up top.
Reverse the removal process to get it back together.
Back
The car should already be up on 4 stands, or now have the rear in the air at least.
Youll defiantly need 2 jacks.
1. Support the diff with your jack.
2. Remove the struts from the lower arms. I used another jack and jacked up the arm, just enough to take the pressure of the strut bolt, near the connecting ball joint.
3. Remove the IRS bolt in the tire well near the strut. Release the jack holding the lower arm
4. Complete same on opposite side.
5. Lower the jack supporting the diff
The springs will fall out, may need to help it some but they defiantly come out with ease. Dont remove the jack completely from the diff, just lower it enough to get the springs out.
Put your new springs in, reverse the steps, and make sure to use the 2nd jack to get the strut bolt in there.
:beer:
Before
After
You can adjust the angle of your tires with loosening the UCA bolts. The UCA bolt slot allows for camber adjustment.
Trmin8r said:Better pic
Pic of the UCA bolt I removed:
Hey good write up.... well it was a little difficult for me .... the front was a breeze when i did mine. the rear sucked i never messed with the irs. i ltook out the shock bolts and then i pried the springs out to put them in i compressed them with loaner spring compressors from a parts store and i tied wire clothes hangers in 4 different places and tied them up real tight on the coils, Then i placed the springs tightened up everything and cut the hanger wire with wire cutters and bam the springs were on.. Anyone else done this trick?
Great info guys, Im glad this thread was able to help.
As for the hanger trick, if you would have just remove the rear upper irs bolts as mentions they would actually just fall out onto the floor. Whatever works though, your car looks good in your sig.
As for the hanger trick, if you would have just remove the rear upper irs bolts as mentions they would actually just fall out onto the floor. Whatever works though, your car looks good in your sig.
I get a little noise if I hit a bump or something, but its not major. I wouldnt let the noise factor prevent me from taking them off, as its not that big of a deal.
userob2002
Banned
Trmin8r said:Better pic
Pic of the UCA bolt I removed:
Evidence of driving in rain.
oke:
old post but a great write up!!
userob2002 said:Evidence of driving in rain.
Real men don't fear the rain : )
Back up, try to help em all out.
Still has to be some out there lower cobras still...
Very easy method!
Still has to be some out there lower cobras still...
Very easy method!
wish i saw this before i paid a shop 285$ to do this. Great write up. I am going to be adding MM isos in the rear and this has pretty much assured me i could do this.
nice write up
Would someone be willing to take pic by pic instructions? Also, how relevant are these to a 98 cobra spring install with eibachs or something similar? Is everyone on here settled with H&R?
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