GMS vs Stock COP experiment...

TermiN8er

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Just wanted to let you all know, I am gonna do an experiment to compare the GMS to stock coil packs on the dyno. I already did the STOCK dyno run and the car seems to break up above 6300 RPM.

Background:
I ran MSD's and made 774HP on stock engine, E85, 3.4L Whipple @ 23# and it powered all the way through 6500 rpm no break up and no back fire.

04 Cobra E85 3.4L Whipple Cobra JLT intake (774HP, 731TQ) - YouTube

JLT Next Gen 12" CAI test - YouTube


NOW:
I recently put a MMR Boss 9.5:1 stock heads/ stock cam (1mm over exaust valve),and stage 3 port, same 3.4L whipple, E85, and STOCK COPS!! (because tuner insisted on them...) the car started breaking up and missing at 6300. @24-25#'s. Tuner says my gap is too large.... re-gap to .24 and same thing! Tuner says my valve springs are not closing all the way at higher RPM ?!?! ( :dw: ) made 800HP and 772Tq.

E85 MMR BOSS Stroked, 3.4L Whipple COBRA, Dyno Run #2 - YouTube

E85 MMR BOSS Stroked, 3.4L Whipple COBRA, Dyno Run #3 - YouTube


note dyno sheet:
null-1.gif

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My buddy had same whipple with Teksid bored over and cam. with STOCK COPS... his breaks up at the same rpm and makes 824hp with 780tq @ 27#'s of boost. (same day, same tuner).


SO, I am gonna put in GMS (and maybe my old MSD's) and see if it will do the same. My hypothesis is that the GMS will not break up at high RPM. I think the BOOST is blowing the spark out regardless of the gap because the OEM COPS are not STRONG enough to sustain the 25#'s of boost and compression. (not heat related, Voltage potential to sustain the spark).

I will update you all as to what I find out.

Any opinions( preferably with some data) are encouraged.

Last note: the OEM FORD COPS were 'made in China' from Ford :nonono: but they were OEM!!! :bored:


:beer:
 

Sagittaria

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Boost a spark would be my choice if it is indeed blowout. But I'd check your voltages during your runs just to be sure.. alternators can be funky on these cars to where it'd drop voltage at the top of a run.

I haven't heard any good things about aftermarket coils. Still interested in seeing test results!
 

TermiN8er

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Boost a spark would be my choice if it is indeed blowout. But I'd check your voltages during your runs just to be sure.. alternators can be funky on these cars to where it'd drop voltage at the top of a run.

I haven't heard any good things about aftermarket coils. Still interested in seeing test results!

Yea, I had that issue on my other engine and I put a 200amp alternator with a larger pulley to compensate for the 6.55" lower and 3" SC pulley speed combo.

I will data log the voltage though. And check it.
 

04cobradude

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i hope you realize that e85 requires 35% more fuel which means the spark needs to be that much more powerful... when i do an e85 car that makes north of 700rwhp, we gap the plugs .016-.018...
 

jblood37

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i hope you realize that e85 requires 35% more fuel which means the spark needs to be that much more powerful... when i do an e85 car that makes north of 700rwhp, we gap the plugs .016-.018...

Are you gapping the that close to avoid spark blowout? I thought making the gap smaller actually decreased the chances that the fuel would be completely ignited?
 

ctgreddy

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I'm interested in this as well. I dont need any upgrades, but all these reputable tuners(my boss included) insists on only oem coils. Yet people who use aftermarkets seem to think they "felt a difference". would be nice to see results from someone who is more than likely getting high rpm spark blowout and see if any change is found.
 

ctgreddy

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my guess, he spent all that money and realized it got worse with anything other than stock coils.
 

Goon Slider

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When i had granatelli's they didn't miss a beat. @26 psi and e85 with a voltage drop to about 11.3v on a OEM 105 amp that was dying and zero spark blow out.

I changed from GMS to OEM because one of my GMS coils died, they had about 40k of hard miles on them. So i did what everyone said to do.... go oem....


NOW....Im having spark blow out at about 5500 rpms with a new 160 amp alternator and a BAS @ .21 gap

I really want to know some results. Getting pretty damn tired of messing with something that is supposed to "work".
 
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