Getting ready to swap cams and degree them .. review my parts list please

[03bluemach]

Im going to be swapping to some custom grind bullet racing cams for my turbo setup in the near future( dont know what specs yet e-mailed them my build info yesterday ) and have been putting together a parts list of all the stuff i will need.

My PREVIOUS combo was with a Vortech T-trim with the cam specs below.. I was informed they had to much exh duration for my current turbo setup and would slow spool time and off boost power would suffer also, so its time for them to come out .
I thought about just leaving them in an go ahead and bring the car to get tuned and see what it made with them and then bringing it back after the cam swap to see what kind of gains i will pick up
but at this point i just want to change them out and be done with it while i have the time ..

Specs on the cams in the car right now that were for a Blower setup.

int. lift - 0.452
ext. lift- 0.452
int.-209
ext.-225




Am i forgetting anything ?? This what i have so far :

****Also wanted to mention i will be using the Intake Centerline Method when i degree the cams in . Which will actually be the exhaust centerline method in the 4v's case since the exhaust cams drive the intake cams . I think I said that right lol ..



I will also be buying a new 4v timing kit from ford that comes with new primary and secondary chains, sprockets , chain tensioners etc.

New ford lash adjusters : Let the lash adjusters and tensioners soak in oil for atleast 48 hours before installing them right.???

Im not sure on the cam follower arms if i should buy new ones or not ?? When i take everything apart i will check the condition of them ..

I will most likely be buying these Springs to go with the cams :.525" Lift Ford 4V Modular Springs - Brian Tooley Racing

On the Valve seals should i buy oem or will these FEL-PRO Viton # SS72888 ones be sufficient ?

This is the valve spring compressor that i will be using since im doing all this with the motor still in the car

Valve Spring Compressor 4 6 and 5 4 2 Valves Engine 1998

^ Says 2v but i saw a thread on the corral where a guy said it worked on his 4V and that he changed all 32 springs with the motor still in the car and didnt have any problems using it

Also some ARP cam bolts will be going on

And i was also told on the TFS adjustable crank gears to roll pin or have them welded after you get them setup where they need to be due to the stock keyway not being long enough if i recall and this is why ford went to a one piece design.

 

[encasedmetal]

looks good to me, and your prep notes seem solid. On the trick flow gears- I made the keyway go all the way to the oil pump by taking the stock keyway out and cutting some out and making a new key.

I would suggest having a 2nd pair of hands to help, as if you really pay attention you'll find that the secondary tensioners will give inconsistent results unless you have full tension on them by way of a holder of the cam.

 

[03bluemach]

^ i was thinking of doing this also for the crank keyway, Where did you get your keystock from if you dont mind me asking ? did you buy it already cut to stock dimensions if so do you remember the size ? I havent had time to look at it i work offshore and wont be in for few more weeks . how far did you end up cutting in the crank slot ?
Thanks ! :beer:


Also once James from Cobra Engineering gets feed back from his test subjects and everything is good to go i will be using one of his "Revised Secondary tensioners" that will help fix the Ford design flaw on the driver side secondary system. More can be read here : Cobra Engineering secondary timing tensioner fix


>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

 

[encasedmetal]

^ i was thinking of doing this also for the crank keyway, Where did you get your keystock from if you dont mind me asking ? did you buy it already cut to stock dimensions if so do you remember the size ? I havent had time to look at it i work offshore and wont be in for few more weeks . how far did you end up cutting in the crank slot ?
Thanks ! :beer:


Also once James from Cobra Engineering gets feed back from his test subjects and everything is good to go i will be using one of his "Revised Secondary tensioners" that will help fix the Ford design flaw on the driver side secondary system. More can be read here : Cobra Engineering secondary timing tensioner fix


>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

if you look in the pic you can see that I bought just a long piece of key stock and cut it to fit. I then pumpkin cut the crank up to the oil pump area as you can also see in the pic.

 

[mwolson]

if you look in the pic you can see that I bought just a long piece of key stock and cut it to fit. I then pumpkin cut the crank up to the oil pump area as you can also see in the pic.

I almost hate to ask, but did that cut in the crank cause you to have to re-balance it?

 

[encasedmetal]

I almost hate to ask, but did that cut in the crank cause you to have to re-balance it?

Nope. Balancing would not be effected as the cranks are factory internal balanced, and doing this would not effect my piston/rod/filet balance whatsoever

 

[03bluemach]

Encased : do you remember where you got the keyway stock from ? And what size it was ? Also what tools / cutting tools you used ?

 

[encasedmetal]

Encased : do you remember where you got the keyway stock from ? And what size it was ? Also what tools / cutting tools you used ?

Got it at a local machine shop, take your stock key out and have them give you some stock of the same measure. I cut the crank using a carbide bit and a very steady hand. Make sure the motor is sealed/blocked from any metal debris as you cut.

 

[03bluemach]

Thanks .. I haven't made up my mind yet if I'm going to key the crank like you did or just pin the TFS gears together ..

 

[Martin6107]

Yup - I am heading down this same path too. Will the Trick Flow degree wheel fit onto the Proform crankshaft socket?

 

[na svt]

The "revised secondary tensioner isn't needed. Also, the you have to degree both the into and exh cams separately. I have instructions on how to do so. To degree the cams you'll need:
Degree wheel
Dial indicator and extension
Solid lash adjuster
Tdc locator/piston stop
Crank socket
Clamp
Secondary tensioner tool

And a lot of patience, expect it to take you 8 hours or longer if you've never done it before.

 

[na svt]

If you're worried about the crank key failing use the Cloyes secondary years instead. They are reliable and will make decreeing the cams much easier.

I can email decreeing instruction to Antone that needs them.

 

[na svt]

Yup - I am heading down this same path too. Will the Trick Flow degree wheel fit onto the Proform crankshaft socket?

Yes

 

[03bluemach]

Would it be ok to reuse my cam followers if they look good upon tear down ? or should i just buy new ones ? Im not sure if they are the original or not i bought the car second hand ,Also would it be worth the cost of upgrading to the GT super car cam followers ?

 

[03bluemach]

Update...... I decided to just pick up a set of 96-98 Cobra cams instead of the custom bullet racing ones due to buying a new house the budget got a little tighter.

what should I degree the 96-98 cobra cams to ? 108,110 ?

mods are in sig I don't plan to rev the car past 7,000 4r70w swap with 3:55 rear gears im wondering how the SR lower intake will affect things with the turbo the one I have has 1.5'' removed and the bells weren't welded back on after.

 

[03bluemach]

Also does anyone have a degree wheel kit that they could rent out to me for a couple months ? I say months because of the line of work im in and I never know when im going to be gone or home ( oil field )

 

[na svt]

I would set them at 108 if the converter is tight (3200 and lower) and 114 if the stall is 3600 and higher.

 

[03bluemach]

The converter should be in the 3500-3800 stall range . So I should set both intake and exhaust cams @ 114 If im understanding you right ?

Also can you explain how the short runner intake I described in the post above will affect performance with the turbo ? would it be better to go back to stock runner length ?

basically the car has stock port B heads with a Short Runner intake ,IMRC deletes , 8.5:1 compression , 76M turbo, 4R70W swap with 3500-3800 stall and 3:55 rear gears

Street/Strip is the goal

 

[03bluemach]

ttt

 

[na svt]

Keep the exhaust in the stock position of 110. Shorter runners slow spooling are generally only good for autos if they see high RPMs.