~ Gen 1 Killer Chiller~ installed/tested *Review inside*

mark007

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My roommate and i just finished installing a 1st generation Killer Chiller on my Kenne Bell Cobra. I wasn't 100% sold on the Killer Chiller but when the Cobra he purchased a few months ago already had one on it and i saw what it did, i began looking. I picked up a 1st Gen Killer Chiller from a guy in Dallas who never got around to installing it. I didn't get a chance to install it before my KB setup got tuned so that should be beneficial to give ya'll some before/after numbers. The install is very straight forward, as long as you have patience it's something anyone can do. We started by taking the front bumper off and the hardest part was carving out the bumper support so the core would fit and be well hidden. The supplied hose for the A/C line was the EXACT length needed. It is an extremely clean kit and plumbing the lines was very easy and anyone looking in the engine bay wouldn't notice anything different. I've got an LFP intercooler fluid reservoir and the drain plug isn't going to be used anymore so i took the temperature sensor probe and installed it there. Some recommend getting your reading from the line just before the fluid enters the intercooler so you can see just how cold the Killer Chiller gets the fluid but after 3 trips to hardware stores trying to find a pvc piece that we could accomplish that and then i decided that getting the readings after the fluid had gone through the intercooler where it would be at it's highest temperature would be better so i could monitor that after highway pulls. I'm getting the wires for the gauge lengthened tomorrow so i can hook it up and see exact temperatures. so after that is hooked up i'll be able to report back with exact temperatures.

Here's the review after some highway pulls.
My Cobra has a 2.6KB @ 22psi so it generates some heat after WOT pulls. We took the car out and turned the A/C on and started cruising. once the car got up to operating temperature we got to the highway and let her rip! The car is even more violent on the hit, the blower screams louder than before, and what's most important is on the big end it pulls harder than ever! We immediately pulled over to feel the fluid and it was ice cold and the heat exchanger felt like ice.

really looking forward to seeing how much of a temperature change the fluid is seeing once i get the gauge hooked up! but it's extremely cold, even after ripping through the gears....should really be nice in the summer

This Killer Chiller is something that i wasn't sold on when i first heard about it, but i'm a believer! For all of you with high boost applications, this is really something you'll benefit from greatly! My roommate's car has one and he's got a built motor and an eaton that's seeing 16-17psi and the difference is extremely noticeable even on his setup and on mine it's night and day, ESPECIALLY on the big end. I'd say if you are considering one, quit waiting and just buy one!
Joe spent about 45min on the phone with me walking me through what the install was going to entail, he didn't leave out one step and has a quality kit. thanks joe!

very nice. if this is the same one that was forsale awhile back here you got a good deal. i was trying to get it for my build im doing. even more reason to do what im planning.
 

03mgtermi

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Got this off their website. Looks like it retains the H/E and Reservoir, but I can see how you could hook it up without them. Leaving them in would take some of the heat off before it entered the killerchiller so it wouldn't have to work as hard though.

ADVANCED20KC20SYSTEM.jpg
 

forcefedcobra

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If they see water drip from your car, you wont be able to make a pass (and when you run A/C, there will be water). This is the only reason I haven't put one on my cars.

insulating the lines and rigging up a catch can setup wont be an issue.

Plus on my car the LT's catch and vaporize any drips while it is running.
 

SVT GI

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insulating the lines and rigging up a catch can setup wont be an issue.

Plus on my car the LT's catch and vaporize any drips while it is running.

Hmmmm....If you can get this to work with zero dripping I'd be interested to see your set up. I'd probably give the Killer Chiller a try then.
 

forcefedcobra

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Hmmmm....If you can get this to work with zero dripping I'd be interested to see your set up. I'd probably give the Killer Chiller a try then.

hopefully I'll have something done with a KC or True forged icey res in about a month.
 

thomas91169

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i still wanna see real-world testing, IAT2 temps at WOT, then time it takes to cool down (meaning after a WOT run, the faster you can get back on the throttle) and time it takes to reach full temp during a pull. All those tests with the KC on and off. Dyno numbers are not what im interested in, as any gains in the above will obviously translate to dyno numbers.

The biggest benefit i see is the time it takes to kill heat-soak after a run being cut in half, if not more. I hope but dont think it will make much difference in IAT2 during a pull or track session, but would help scrub off some heat in the turns during decel and off-throttle times and gain a little power back (since we all know the ECU bases so much off the IAT2's).

I remember with my upgraded HE core my IAT2's would peak at 180ish during a WOT pull (middle of summer btw), and once i was off-throttle and coasting they would instantly start to drop and would be back to the 110ish level (ambient) before i even coasted down to 80. Of course though the faster you are going, the more efficient your HE is, and a bigger HE will do even better. My point in that matter is that even with a KC setup, a upgraded HE will always be a benefit.
 

2bscrewed

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i My point in that matter is that even with a KC setup, a upgraded HE will always be a benefit.

Not really, my friend has one on his Shelby, and one on his 03, and the HE actually heated the fluid back up, making the killer chiller have to work even harder. As long as the air temps outside are above the IC fluid temps, the HE is counter productive. You wouldn't believe how cold it gets the fluid temps, even after a pull in the summer.
 

LTHL VNM

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yes, i'm considering a diverter valve so that when i'm racing, the fluid never goes to the HE. i'll only use the HE for street driving, the temperature drop really is incredible, and it's cold all the time, not just right before a run like when you pack your reservoir with ice.
 

2bscrewed

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so you are sayin that a H/e (aftermarket or stock) is counterproductive in this application?
Yep. The bigger the worse it is.
yes, i'm considering a diverter valve so that when i'm racing, the fluid never goes to the HE. i'll only use the HE for street driving, the temperature drop really is incredible, and it's cold all the time, not just right before a run like when you pack your reservoir with ice.
+1 My friend runs a switch in his glove box.
 

thomas91169

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Not really, my friend has one on his Shelby, and one on his 03, and the HE actually heated the fluid back up, making the killer chiller have to work even harder. As long as the air temps outside are above the IC fluid temps, the HE is counter productive. You wouldn't believe how cold it gets the fluid temps, even after a pull in the summer.

so after a WOT pull the larger HE was detrimental?

im not talking about during cruising during 100* summer days. A larger HE will be beneficial in lowering HE system temps after a WOT pull, especially when coupled with a KC like setup.

is your buddy running the KC full time? if so, then yes, the HE will heat the fluid back up, but really what the hell is the point of running one full time?
 

2bscrewed

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so after a WOT pull the larger HE was detrimental?

im not talking about during cruising during 100* summer days. A larger HE will be beneficial in lowering HE system temps after a WOT pull, especially when coupled with a KC like setup.

is your buddy running the KC full time? if so, then yes, the HE will heat the fluid back up, but really what the hell is the point of running one full time?

Yes, after a WOT pull in the summer, the IC fluid coming out of the IC is cooler than the ambient air, so the HE actually heats the fluid up.

He has a diverter switch in the glove box that controls how much freon goes to the KC and how much goes to the HVAC system. So it's probably on all the time. Both of his cars are toys, so if he takes them out, he wants the fluid already cooled off, just in case it's needed! haha
 

03dsgsnake

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Awesome info! Very interested in this for my 2.8, 1 question do you have to drive with the ac on all the time then? Isnt that drawing power away:shrug: Thanks!!!:beer:
 

CobraBob

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I am in the process of advertising the Kincaid Performance Killer Chiller on my website. Great product!
 

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