Mine made 444 rwhp with boss manifold, jlt intake, and off road x pipe on the BBR dyno. Peak power came in at about 6500 rpm also it just held it all the way to redline. I thought it was kinda high so I dynoed it at another shop and it made 438.
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Mine made 444 rwhp with boss manifold, jlt intake, and off road x pipe on the BBR dyno. Peak power came in at about 6500 rpm also it just held it all the way to redline. I thought it was kinda high so I dynoed it at another shop and it made 438.
Thats some really good numbers, I talked to a bama guy since thats going to be my tune till I get my nitrous kit and he said it will be at arpu d 405 or so no more then that which got me thinking a bit. But once I get the nitrous set up ill be getting the car tuned hoping for mid to high 500s.
You are basically going the same route as me. I'll be doing a 150 shot using an NX Plate kit with all the bells and whistles….Shooting for 440 NA and 590-600 on the juice.
Good luck.
Good luck.
450 or higher if you port the boss and/or run e85
Thanks bud ill make sure I update this once I do all the upgrades. Im going to post a dyne before the Boss IM
then after then after the full exhaust and then after the shot so everyone can see the gain through the hole process.
Dont I need bigger injectors for that? Also I dont know anything about e85 or how it works or where to get it.
Cool! Yes, larger injectors and a tune are needed.
Eventually I will then but as of now I doubt it.
Shaun@AED says its all in the tune.
Auto ? Where is AED that everyone keeps talking about them ? Do they do mail tunes ?
Custom Dyno Tuning | Advanced Engine Development - AED
$250 buys you a starter tune….You data log and send the files for review and adjustment. Then you will receive a revised tune.
$250 buys you a starter tune….You data log and send the files for review and adjustment. Then you will receive a revised tune.
I have similar set up, I ran 424 rwhp on JPC Dyno, NA trim, 555rwhp on a 100 wet shot.
Just contacted them waiting on an email
Just talked to Sean at AED and he doesnt recommend a 150 shot unless I do a direct port on my boss manifold, I do t have the tools for that and im guessing the cost to do that is quite a bit
Shaun@AED says its all in the tune.
M6 mods in sig. Shingle Springs near Sacramento, CA. yes they do
What are your goals ?
You say 600 is nice. In most folks experience when you starting flirting with that 600-620WHP Range it's not a matter of If you blow it's a matter of when. If your goals are truly 600+ I would certainly recommend doing a built motor 1st or having the money to buy an alumminator on standby.
If it were me, and you were trying to squeeze every ounce of usable power out of the car before you step into bolting on a nitrous kit. I would maximize the setup as N/A First(Which will cost you more)
Ultimately it depends on if you want to pay someone to go into the top end and do cams/headwork. You can get close to that 550-575 Mark N/A while it won't be as cheap as the initial nitrous kit, it's prob safer long term, and you have to factor in how many times you're going to have to fill a bottle? a 10lb bottle is roughly $40 to fill on average. Have you had nitrous before ? If not you're going to go through a couple 10lb'ers pretty quick. Before you know it you've dumped $500-750 on nitrous fills in a season's time.
In my mind these cars can handle 550 WHP N/A for 100k+ miles. I personally wouldn't take it much past that unless you're ready to be able to fork out thousands like I said.
You say 600 is nice. In most folks experience when you starting flirting with that 600-620WHP Range it's not a matter of If you blow it's a matter of when. If your goals are truly 600+ I would certainly recommend doing a built motor 1st or having the money to buy an alumminator on standby.
If it were me, and you were trying to squeeze every ounce of usable power out of the car before you step into bolting on a nitrous kit. I would maximize the setup as N/A First(Which will cost you more)
Ultimately it depends on if you want to pay someone to go into the top end and do cams/headwork. You can get close to that 550-575 Mark N/A while it won't be as cheap as the initial nitrous kit, it's prob safer long term, and you have to factor in how many times you're going to have to fill a bottle? a 10lb bottle is roughly $40 to fill on average. Have you had nitrous before ? If not you're going to go through a couple 10lb'ers pretty quick. Before you know it you've dumped $500-750 on nitrous fills in a season's time.
In my mind these cars can handle 550 WHP N/A for 100k+ miles. I personally wouldn't take it much past that unless you're ready to be able to fork out thousands like I said.
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Shaun@AED says its all in the tune.
That's a great number especially making it below 7k
Seems like the cars with pypes longtubes make about 12 more HP than the other longtubes. Do you have the "buzzing" or rattling noise I keep hearing about?
When I first got the headers installed they sat on the steering shaft and it was hard to steer when I turned left. And the over the axle pipes rattles on the frame cuz they say a little low. Blazer707 air hammered the header a little bit and that fixed the steering. I switched from pypes pype bomb axle back to gt500's and that pushed the ota pipe upwards and it doesn't rattle on the frame anymore.
Not trying to surpass 600 by all means just looking for 550 maybe 570 max, and for the times im going to hit the nitrous im not worrying abour filling the bottle up too many times. I just want ro have the extra power there in case of an emergency lol. I know once you get that high youre pushing your luck.
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