I'd go with 60's personally. I think 80's are a bit overkill unless you're looking to run E85 at some point. If I didn't have dreams of stupid power numbers sometime in the future I'd trade my 80's for 60's.
Fuel question for a p1sc setup on an 01' Cobra
- Thread starter 2001cobravert
- Start date
When I first installed my P1SC years ago, I installed the Walbro 255LPH pump that came with the kit I bought. But only 10 minutes after we started the car up, the pump seized up while it was idling. THANK GOD it didn't happen during a dyno run, which was about to happen.
Anyway, we decided to reinstall the stock pump for the meantime until they sent out a replacement. Then we did a dyno run. On an entirely stock car, save for a cat back and the newly installed P1SC kit, using the same 42LB green injectors and a 90MM Lightning blow-through MAF, it made 461 RWHP on 10 LBS of boost. This was with no Boost-A-Pump, nothing
The A/F ratio was spot on, and there were no signs of fuel starvation, good fuel pressure, everything. However, I was starting to max out the MAF meter.
You can run the stock pump, but I'd say 450 HP is probably the limit to be safe. I have no experience with Boost a pumps or anything like that, so I can't say if those will help.
But I'd say just get a Walbro 255 and be done with it.
EDIT: Someone asked about the pulley size... My 10LB kit came with a 3.9" pulley, and that gave me right about 10LBS of boost with the stock setup with a cat back (which can reduce boost). I was working with a guy that was starting a business making power pipes to compete with AFM, so my car was the prototype. We installed a 4" power pipe and the boost increased to 12LBS, with the same pulley at 6750 RPM's.
Now, I've got an Aviator long block and off road X pipe. With the freer flowing 03-04 heads, plus the x pipe, boost decreased by 1-2 LBS throughout the RPM range and peak boost decreased by about 3-4 LBS at redline. The lower boost at redline is due to the aviator longblock that has the 03/04 cobra heads/cams, which are designed for power production in the lower RPM range instead of higher RPM peak power that the earlier 99-01 heads were designed for. The 99 motor had a redline of 6850 RPM, but this motor only pulls up to about 6000~6250 RPM. Being that there's 500 less RPM, there'll be less peak boost out of the centrifugal supercharger. Even still, the Aviator longblock made as much as 50 more HP and 80 more LB/FT of torque at 3000 RPM than the 99 motor. This can probably be attributed to the better flow of the 03/04 heads and lower RPM operating range of the cams, plus the higher compression ratio (10.3:1 vs. 9.85:1), despite the lower boost levels at any given RPM.
Nevertheless, I changed to a 3.7" pulley to bring the boost levels up to around 10-11 LBS of boost at redline, and so I could have a slightly higher amount of boost in the lower RPM range.
Homer
Anyway, we decided to reinstall the stock pump for the meantime until they sent out a replacement. Then we did a dyno run. On an entirely stock car, save for a cat back and the newly installed P1SC kit, using the same 42LB green injectors and a 90MM Lightning blow-through MAF, it made 461 RWHP on 10 LBS of boost. This was with no Boost-A-Pump, nothing
The A/F ratio was spot on, and there were no signs of fuel starvation, good fuel pressure, everything. However, I was starting to max out the MAF meter.
You can run the stock pump, but I'd say 450 HP is probably the limit to be safe. I have no experience with Boost a pumps or anything like that, so I can't say if those will help.
But I'd say just get a Walbro 255 and be done with it.
EDIT: Someone asked about the pulley size... My 10LB kit came with a 3.9" pulley, and that gave me right about 10LBS of boost with the stock setup with a cat back (which can reduce boost). I was working with a guy that was starting a business making power pipes to compete with AFM, so my car was the prototype. We installed a 4" power pipe and the boost increased to 12LBS, with the same pulley at 6750 RPM's.
Now, I've got an Aviator long block and off road X pipe. With the freer flowing 03-04 heads, plus the x pipe, boost decreased by 1-2 LBS throughout the RPM range and peak boost decreased by about 3-4 LBS at redline. The lower boost at redline is due to the aviator longblock that has the 03/04 cobra heads/cams, which are designed for power production in the lower RPM range instead of higher RPM peak power that the earlier 99-01 heads were designed for. The 99 motor had a redline of 6850 RPM, but this motor only pulls up to about 6000~6250 RPM. Being that there's 500 less RPM, there'll be less peak boost out of the centrifugal supercharger. Even still, the Aviator longblock made as much as 50 more HP and 80 more LB/FT of torque at 3000 RPM than the 99 motor. This can probably be attributed to the better flow of the 03/04 heads and lower RPM operating range of the cams, plus the higher compression ratio (10.3:1 vs. 9.85:1), despite the lower boost levels at any given RPM.
Nevertheless, I changed to a 3.7" pulley to bring the boost levels up to around 10-11 LBS of boost at redline, and so I could have a slightly higher amount of boost in the lower RPM range.
Homer
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With the help of a friend, we were able to install all of the piping, blower, and intercooler today. Tomorrow we will put the injectors in and tighten everything up. The hardest part honestly was mounting the blower. After it was mounted, we started it up to make sure all the pulleys were in line and no rubbing issues occured. I used the 4" pulley and a gates belt supplied from the previous owner.
I ordered a fuel pump for an Aviator, just waiting for it to arrive.
So far so good! :thumbsup:
I ordered a fuel pump for an Aviator, just waiting for it to arrive.
So far so good! :thumbsup:
Are you gonna have it dyno-tuned?
Definitely. Hopefully the week after Thanksgiving.
For the first time, I can see how the hardest part would have been installing the blower. But get used to it, you'll be pulling that off and reinstalling it every time you need to change a belt, or a pulley. I actually keep a specific box of stuff in my trunk with the tools to remove and reinstall, and the parts to bypass it if necessary, such as a short belt and an air filter that connects to the piping where the blower would have.
But soon enouh, you'll get pretty familiar with pulling off the blower and reinstalling it. Just remember the belt size and routing.
It helps to have a spare belt in your trunk, and even a short belt for a worst case scenario to get you home without the blower. I drove for a week with the short belt while I waited for a new pulley. Man, I missed that boost. It was like the top end was flat.
Anyway, enough ranting and raving. All I'm saying is you're going to get real familiar with the system as you work and tinker with it.
Also, what MAF are you using? A 90mm LMAF with an adapter on one side? If so , watch out because on the LMAF flange, there are some pretty thin areas that will blow out the gasket easily. I leaked 4 LBS of boost and still made a 12.99 run. Once I found out the leak, it was like a new car! No surging idle, no stalling, and most importantly, the proper amount of boost.
I'm using a pro-m maf that I bought with the kit. Later I will probably go draw thru but for now this will do.
Thanks for the heads up. I already have a spare belt and my almost new stock belt.
Stay with the blow through if you can.
Why's that?
Blow thru setups tend to respond a little better. Everyone I know who has converted to blow thru says the car acts just as good if not better than stock. I too would stay with the blow thru setup.
Aviator pump is in!
Need help wiring in the 20 amp bap. All write ups were done on 03/04 cobras.
Does anyone have info on 2001 cobra fpdm harnesses? Just need to know which wires I need to splice my bap in to. Colors would be great.
Need help wiring in the 20 amp bap. All write ups were done on 03/04 cobras.
Does anyone have info on 2001 cobra fpdm harnesses? Just need to know which wires I need to splice my bap in to. Colors would be great.
you splice into the inertia switch on the 99-01's not the fpdm...
I had links to this install but I'm on a new computer and don't have it saved
I had links to this install but I'm on a new computer and don't have it saved
Mine is spliced into the inertia switch. I had a write up that explained how to hook it up with the FPDM.
Inertia switch only has 2 wires. I splice the bap into the gr/bk wire, correct?
Here is how mine is wired up. I didnt install it. Tim Barth did it while my car was on the dyno. It gets the job done.
Here is how mine is wired up. I didnt install it. Tim Barth did it while my car was on the dyno. It gets the job done.
Thanks for the pics.
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Boost-a-pump is in!
Getting tuned mid-next week at performance evolution in Smyrna, De.
Wish me luck.
Getting tuned mid-next week at performance evolution in Smyrna, De.
Wish me luck.
My tuner had a cancellation today and was able to put my cobra on the dyno. Looks like I went too big with the pulley. The 4" only made 7psi. Luckily I had a 3.6" in the car as well. He will swap pulleys and do another run tomorrow or Monday.
Fingers crossed, I'm hoping for 450ish rwhp.
Fingers crossed, I'm hoping for 450ish rwhp.
What numbers did it make with the 4" pulley?
Mine made 414 with a 3.9" pulley and a leak in the system, so it was only making about 5-6 lbs of boost. Fixed the leak and it went up to 450. Put on the 3.7 and it went up another 15 HP or so. Peak torque was at 3300 RPM, but remember I've got the 03-04 heads and cams and a 10.3:1 compression.
If you really want to get saucy , throw on a 2.8 or 3.0" pulley and watch the boost build up early, like 10lbs at 3500 RPM. It'll make about 16 lbs at redline, but if that's too much boost your motor can handle, your tuner can always pull back the timing at the higher rpm to control detonation. That'll lower your overall peak number (compared to higher timing), but it'll give you a roots-like power curve. Down in the mid range when you need it. The only problem is that you might have more belt slip if you don't already.
I ran a 2.8 for a bit like that setup and we kept it capped at 450 HP with the timing and fuel to keep detonation at bay, but it made an extra 40 HP from 2500-5000
Good luck whichever way you decide to take it.
Oh, is your motor forged? From what Ive read on this thread already, it's probably not, otherwise you'd be going balls to the wall.
Just make sure, even with the smaller pulley, your tuner is real careful at the top end. Especially with the cylinder on the front drivers side. That's the one I blew in my original motor. See if he can pull just a "little" more timing and add just a "little" more fuel to that cylinder, just to keep it safe. I'm not sure if he has the capability to do timing and fuel on an individual cylinder basis. But do some research to see which cylinder is the most common to blow, and treat that one with some extra care if you know what I mean. It could have been a coincidence that the piston I blew was the piston I blew. But I do know there are some minor head cooling issues that make certain cylinders more succeptible to detonation.
Mine made 414 with a 3.9" pulley and a leak in the system, so it was only making about 5-6 lbs of boost. Fixed the leak and it went up to 450. Put on the 3.7 and it went up another 15 HP or so. Peak torque was at 3300 RPM, but remember I've got the 03-04 heads and cams and a 10.3:1 compression.
If you really want to get saucy , throw on a 2.8 or 3.0" pulley and watch the boost build up early, like 10lbs at 3500 RPM. It'll make about 16 lbs at redline, but if that's too much boost your motor can handle, your tuner can always pull back the timing at the higher rpm to control detonation. That'll lower your overall peak number (compared to higher timing), but it'll give you a roots-like power curve. Down in the mid range when you need it. The only problem is that you might have more belt slip if you don't already.
I ran a 2.8 for a bit like that setup and we kept it capped at 450 HP with the timing and fuel to keep detonation at bay, but it made an extra 40 HP from 2500-5000
Good luck whichever way you decide to take it.
Oh, is your motor forged? From what Ive read on this thread already, it's probably not, otherwise you'd be going balls to the wall.
Just make sure, even with the smaller pulley, your tuner is real careful at the top end. Especially with the cylinder on the front drivers side. That's the one I blew in my original motor. See if he can pull just a "little" more timing and add just a "little" more fuel to that cylinder, just to keep it safe. I'm not sure if he has the capability to do timing and fuel on an individual cylinder basis. But do some research to see which cylinder is the most common to blow, and treat that one with some extra care if you know what I mean. It could have been a coincidence that the piston I blew was the piston I blew. But I do know there are some minor head cooling issues that make certain cylinders more succeptible to detonation.
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