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Discussion in 'The Distillery' started by 2k4Terminator, Apr 15, 2011.
Awesome! Keep the updates coming!
Oldish thread, but any more updates? You've given a bunch of great info that I didn't know.
This is awesome information, I feel like i learned alot from all of these posts in this thread. The flex fuel cars running the paper fuel filters as well is eye opening and makes me believe that their isn't as much required to change to E85 as i previously thought. I'm not driving a Ford product, but I love the idea of easily changing to E85 for that extra power and lower firing temps while still retaining a large percentage of longevity that gasoline has proven to have.
I pulled my injectors that have been in since january 2009 and they were clean. Not an issue. The car has been sitting a lot lately but everytime I go out there it fires right up with e85 in it. I havent had a single issue with any parts of my fuel system running E85 since september 2008. I have only switched back to 91oct twice. And both times were for road trips. For some reason you cant get E85 in nebraska. But still got 27mpgs goin to and from.
My overall MPG's have been 13.6 MPG on e85 over the last year. Thats a good mix of highway and city.
I'm curious as to what will be different in tuning a car on e85 vs regular pump gas. Obviously an advantage to e85 is the ability to run more timing and boost due to it one being race gas basically and the other part of it being overall cooler correct? My question is what would a tuner need to know that hasn't tuned on e85 before?
Not to be scared of detonation.
A good start is 30% more fuel. Put in some timing in the midrange and up the top side by about 3deg. Start there and adjust it from there to suit your needs. I personally would not have my car tuned by someone that hasn't done anything with E85. If they dont know where to start run away, far away. Find someone else out there that can do it. There are a lot of people that know what it takes to get it going.
Sludge and corrosion
What people get confused with E-85 and methanol. Methanol alcohol fuel is corrosive to rubber, E-85 is not. If you drink one it will give you brain damage. Drink the other alcohol and you get messed up. Moonshiners have knowledge of these alcohols many years ago. As far as the sludge goes, there is a article of this same issue and pictures over at a SRT-4 neon forum. Turns out the guy that had this same issue found out that the station that he was getting his E-85 from had previously had diesel fuel in the tank that was now holding E-85.
How often would you guys recommend changing these filters if lets say I were to be using the Aeromotive 10 Micron paper filters? Car is driven ~3000 miles a year these days.
this is what i run
Hey guys. Very good info here. I've just subbed to this thread. I have a question for you all.
I've been running E85 since last summer. Over time my performance started to drop off. Then one day the car just acted like my fuel system was going to quit altogether. I had this happen to the stock fuel pumps once so I remember very well the symptoms.
O4sleeper, Kevin Dunn, who is an awesome tuner and this forum's moderator and has helped me tremendously suggested I replace my inline filter (I'm running the Fore triple pump full return system) I did this (it's an Aeromotive 10 micron) and the problem seemed to get better but the car still fell on it's face after a few miles and a hard pull or two.
My question is this. Should I suspect the prefilters in the tank that attach to the three pumps as well and replace them? I'm about ready to do this and just wanted some opinions. I have installed a trap door in my trunk floor so I don't have to actually drop my tank to pull the Fore hat.
What do you guys think?
Thanks, Ray H.
That's a good question! Also waiting to hear feedback on this... Can we see some pics of your trap door?
I would not suspect your pre-filters having any issues clogging. Most pre-filters are 100 micron and are only there to filter out large debris to keep the pumps from being damaged. That's why you put a smaller micron filter after the pumps.
I have seen pumps mounted to close to the bottom of the tank or the tank being dented slightly from being jacked up from the center without support. This could cause the pumps from getting sufficient flow.
Kevin. You are my "go to" guy for this kind of question so I put a lot of stock in what you say. And I sure don't want to pull the hat if I don't need to.
I'm going to replace my inline filter again with a 10 micron and take another trip around the block. In my case "the block" is about a 4 to 5 mile square.
However this time out I have a remote mounted fuel pressure gauge running from the regulator that is taped to my windshield wiper on the drivers side so I can see it clearly as I drive.
I'll be watching for any drop as I put it through some regular driving and eventually make a first and second gear pull.
Kevin, I know you had suggested before when we spoke that you suspected a possible temperature related issue that may be causing my severe stumble. I'll be making a special note of that as well during the test drive.
To answer 2K4terminator's question about the trap door. It's really very simple. I cut a square hole in my trunk floor that allows full access to the hat. Then the "door" part is just an old moon hubcap disc I had laying around that I lay over the hole. It's diameter is bigger than the square hole. I use duct tape to seal it to the trunk floor. Works perfect, seals out any water that might splash up in there and when the trunk mat is laid over it, you never know it's there. This may sound crude to some but it works, doesn't show and cost me nothing.
I will post my findings when I test drive the car tomorrow.
I know my opinion probly dosent matter much but i would have to agree with 04sleeper I would think it would be hard for the filters by the pump to clog up just because the size of them 100 micron. The 10 micron seems like it would be the thing to clog up. Maybe there is another issue like low voltage or a pump going out.
Interesting setup on your car is similar to my buddys but he had a 2.6 pulley and a 4 pound lower. If i remember right as well the injectors are a pain to remove on the passenger side but i think they were easy to remove on the drivers side maybe pull the injectors off and see if they have any gunk in them if they do this could also be causing an issue.
Just the advice i could give.
Which fuel filter would you recommend for my setup? The car has 22,000 miles and still running the stock fuel filter. It has been basically stock up till now except for the mods in my sig.
My car will be tuned for E-85 and have the following:
Whipple 2.9 w/ JLT High Boost CAI
Lethal Budget Return Fuel System
The following will remain stock:
Stock feed line
Stock fuel rails
Stock fuel tank
your lethal budget return style system won't be enough for what you will most likely make on this set up HP wise . Upgrade to the lethal 850hp kit or 1000hp kit
I could add a BAP to support the two fuel pumps though...
I am aiming for 650-700. If 750 is achievable all the better! Isn't the budget fuel system capable of supporting that level?
I will be using a safe tuner so I don't think he will be pushing the PSI too high.
EDIT: I will be getting the 1200 HP Return Fuel System instead after talking to a few people. Thanks for the heads up bambinov8
703.3 rwhp and 608 tq.