Anyone ever try Granatelli Hot Street Coil packs? They are rated for 45K volts stock is 20k volts. My car has 50k miles on the stock coils so I can't imagine I am anywhere near 20k volts. My car has all of your typical bolt-ons.
Cheers
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Ford Coil Packs
- Thread starter 1999marg
- Start date
I will never use Granatelli/UPR parts on any of my Mustangs or the Mustangs that I work on.
Granatelli is a company run by an individual that has no morals. He will rip off and copy any product on the market, then slap his name on it and sell it as his own.
Everyone looks at the other guys product and then builds something similar but not Granatelli, theyll take a part, send it to China and get a boat load of exact replicas shipped back over here.
Dont beleive me?
Newsflash: Granatelli was the first with all the mustang goodies, all others copied - Corner-Carvers Forums
Granatelli is a company run by an individual that has no morals. He will rip off and copy any product on the market, then slap his name on it and sell it as his own.
Everyone looks at the other guys product and then builds something similar but not Granatelli, theyll take a part, send it to China and get a boat load of exact replicas shipped back over here.
Dont beleive me?
Newsflash: Granatelli was the first with all the mustang goodies, all others copied - Corner-Carvers Forums
does a N/A stock car with bolt ons need high output coils?
my Kenne Bell blown doesn't sooooooo...
This topic has ben discussed 12,285,863.000 times! OEM Stock Ford!
Yup.. weekly post about it it seems....
And at 50K i doubt they are bad/weak.
I have 150,000miles on mine and I'm thinking abotu swapping them out soon. I originally wanted MSD COP's, but research keeps saying to run stock. I've read even Ford GT's run best with stock COP's even after doing Twin Turbo upgrades/etc...
I have them on my car and I am very happy. The cars runs smoother, starts better and feels strong everywhere in the RPM range. My take on this is simple. There are a ton of guys now making performance coils. Granatelli seems to have been the first to really offer a high performance part. - the BS spring inside the boot is what holds back the max energy from going point A (the coil head) to points B (the plug)
The GMS stuff comes with the stainless ropes that replaces the dinky springs. I have read it all and seen a ton of good and bad posts on just about every coil. While the stock coils seem to get credit for not failing - they are the baseline for the test. I do not recall ever seeing a dyno test shown where the GMS coils did not make power. Sure we have all read the speculation that the XYZ coils made no difference but no one has posted a back to back dyno test that shows they do nothing. Conversely, many talk about the magazines being bias towards the advertisers. When is the last time you saw a dyno test in the magazine with Accel or MSD Ford coils that made power? NEVER - Reason? Because the magazine won't knowing lie for the advertisers they just refrain from posting (telling) the truth about the stuff not making power. Now GMS: I have read in MM&FF, 5.0 and NMRA Magazine articles over the years that all reported power gains with GMS coils and stainless ropes. I don't profess to be the expert but I also read an article years back where a dyno shop tested a 2006 3v Stang stock and made 255hp (+/-) then they installed the MSD coils and made 254 to 256 basically showing the coils were worth nothing. Then they put the GMS ropes on the MSD coils and made a 5hp gain back to back. When I read that I was sold. Now combine the GMS coils with GMS Ropes and we have a winner. Talk about parts failing? GMS has a lifetime warranty – the factory stuff has 90 days. If the GMS stuff did not work and kept failing they would be out of business. Lifetime warranty speaks volumes to me
You need to get rid of the BS springs - even if you run a stock coil, you owe it to yourself to use the Granatelli ropes.
SVTperf is about NO HATERS. Your post adds nothing to the subject - It is widely know that the Corral Corner Carvers hate Granatelli for all the wrong reasons. Granatelli is his own worse enemy. If he would ignore all the slander and BS the threads would die. Poor sap tries to help and those guys just dog pile on him. It is easy to say Granatelli has product that looks like MM but how can Maximum justify charging 3 times what Granatelli does for what they admit is the same product. The CHINA thing is old news as well. Granatelli has already proven their K-members are made in house. Plus who cares if the K-member is made offshore – I have not seen a single GMS K-member fail and they even have a $500 challenge. If their K-member, A-arm set up fails they replace it and send $500. Does MM do that…NOPE. I have read guys say, “if I had the money, I would buy MM but I can’t afford it, so I purchased GMS” That’s like saying I want to stroke my ego so I will pay more money for the same product to impress my friends. Talk of engineering and intellectual property – PLEAZZZZ. It is not rocket science.
At the Texas Mile last year the guys from Big Stuff 3 had 2 twin turbo’d GT’s there and both had Big Stuff 3 coils in them. Big Stuff buys the coils from Granatelli
I was thinking the same thing.
OP..FWIW, I'm running my original COP. They have 102k on them now. Even with a 9:1 A/F on the dyno they didn't skip a beat. I have thought about upgrading the springs to the "ropes", but never got around to it.
5 posts, ********** OFF TROLL :fm::bash::kaboom:
Old news?? Not really, it looks like the Granatelli copy machine is still up and running.
There's a reason that Corral and C-C.com HATE GMS. They know the truth about the company.
Granatelli COPIES parts that other people did the R&D on, did the testing on then they Granatelli sell the copied parts as their own. They'll even go so far as to incorporate part of the original Manufacturers name into the name of their copycat part.
Hell no a GMS K member has never failed thats BECAUSE ITS A ****ING COPY OF MAXIMUM MOTORSPORTS K MEMBER.
So put that chinese shit on your car, Ill stick to the parts that are "Made in the USA." by honest companies.
This guy just signs up and and leaves THAT POST? Perfect reply 99COBRA2881! And OP don't listen to him oem Ford since Granatelli's have had issues with plenty of people regardless of what this Newbie says!
I haven't been here long and haven't been buying much either but my resent experience is tousley is not practicle in that you have to order and wait. O'reilly's , autozone are more convienent and even offer motorcraft. Plus i tore up my Debit card to save money, and Tousley doesn't COD. Bottom line is IMO most parts will work fine, if like me on a budget then getting the most out of less expensive parts is an option. You find that some OEM parts better and some aftermarket parts better. The main thing is your doing maintenance and asking questions...
Ford Racing has the Motorcraft coil set pretty cheap.
Just get those.
Listed as Shelby coils, but all the 4V since 99 use them. (until the new 5.0)
Just get those.
Listed as Shelby coils, but all the 4V since 99 use them. (until the new 5.0)
Thanks for the feedback
Based on my plug readings I am pretty sure that my coils are not up to spec. I have a house full of Saabs (if you have ever owned a Saab you know exactly what I mean) so plug reading comes natural. My car lays down 325 rwhp (Concord Dyno Concord NH) using NGK TR-6’s gapped at .052”. I replace the copper plugs every spring and usually have the car baselined at the dyno to insure that everything is working properly. The runs are always very consistent.
Cutting to the chase I pulled the plugs in November (to drop a couple tablespoons of oil in the cylinders before I put the car away for the winter). It was at that point that I noticed that the TR-6’s insulators where 2 to three shades of brown darker. I have seen this before in my cars and motorcycles and it has usually been attributed to the coil(s) showing their age, DI cassette (in the case of a Saab), or aging plug leads. I had several sets of old plugs so it was easy for me to reference them. Except for the most recent set, they all have the identical ground strap timing mark, insulator color, and heat range. (Ya I know I have a problem am I the only one who saves their old plugs for reference?)
Funny thing is the spark slowly continues to degrade until your engine starts to misfire or appear flat on throttle tip in. Most of the time you do not even get a "check engine" code when this happens. But you can feel that you are down on power.
Hence the question about the COP’s. My suspicion is all eight of my COP's are aging (they are original to the car). Would they last another 75,000 miles? Who knows, I will replace them and let you know if the money was well spent. It will not be until May still a lot of snow on the ground.
Based on the replies I may be able to sell the old set on eBay :lol1:
Cheers
Mike
Based on my plug readings I am pretty sure that my coils are not up to spec. I have a house full of Saabs (if you have ever owned a Saab you know exactly what I mean) so plug reading comes natural. My car lays down 325 rwhp (Concord Dyno Concord NH) using NGK TR-6’s gapped at .052”. I replace the copper plugs every spring and usually have the car baselined at the dyno to insure that everything is working properly. The runs are always very consistent.
Cutting to the chase I pulled the plugs in November (to drop a couple tablespoons of oil in the cylinders before I put the car away for the winter). It was at that point that I noticed that the TR-6’s insulators where 2 to three shades of brown darker. I have seen this before in my cars and motorcycles and it has usually been attributed to the coil(s) showing their age, DI cassette (in the case of a Saab), or aging plug leads. I had several sets of old plugs so it was easy for me to reference them. Except for the most recent set, they all have the identical ground strap timing mark, insulator color, and heat range. (Ya I know I have a problem am I the only one who saves their old plugs for reference?)
Funny thing is the spark slowly continues to degrade until your engine starts to misfire or appear flat on throttle tip in. Most of the time you do not even get a "check engine" code when this happens. But you can feel that you are down on power.
Hence the question about the COP’s. My suspicion is all eight of my COP's are aging (they are original to the car). Would they last another 75,000 miles? Who knows, I will replace them and let you know if the money was well spent. It will not be until May still a lot of snow on the ground.
Based on the replies I may be able to sell the old set on eBay :lol1:
Cheers
Mike
Computers, mills, welders, stock, and engineers all cost money. Time is money. It is always cheaper to copy than to produce. What the hell do you do for a living? I'm sure you want to get paid. This particular post is insulting to engineers everywhere.
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