FMIC options??

2003GTIZZLE

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^^^ But there again you are turning the blower harder than it needs to be turned. Some people are willing to sacrifice that to safe a dollar, I am not. I just can't see how saving $200 now is worth shortening the life of a $2000 blower. Plus, by the time you bye the cheap intercooler and purchase a new pulley to make up for the pressure loss you are only saving $100 or so. I will pay the $100 now just for the efficiency alone. Also, with a decent cooler now, you have plenty of room to grow in the future if you decide to go bigger without having to purchase the same parts twice and end up spending more money in the end than you needed to.

But in the end OP, it all comes down to what you think is best for you. There isn't really a right or wrong way to do this, just what makes the most sense to you. Obviously there is a bunch of different opinions when it comes to these things.

Listen I totally agree with your statement, however alot of people are missing a very good point that needs to be made with this brand of intercooler. Regardless of its construction in comparison to some of the other styles of intercoolers out there, these things have a great track record of making power and more importantly keeping the air very cool. I have not heard one story of poor quality, these blowing out, or not working as they should. Kurgan just tuned a 3" core CX racing unit on a SBF 363 motor that made just over 800hp with a YSI. Did the boost get robbed in the cooler yes, however the IAT temps were what was important.

I can drive my car anywhere anytime and the IATs are usually less then 7 to 10 degrees hotter then the ambient air temp. Not bad at all for a cooler that cost me less then 300bucks. Alot of people swear by how good these things cool, maybe its in the design and thats part of why they rob more pressure. Id rather have cooler air, I can always turn up the boost.

JTR
 

CPRsm

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And what were the temp differentials on the YSI? Since it's a pushrod I'm guessing no one knows because of the software those cars use unless it's stand alone.
The inlets you see when you drive around really mean absolutely nothing as to whether the IC is good enough for the job. The blower is not creating any boost, so no extra heat. The cfm is very low so it is in the IC longer, cooling it well.
They really don't work that well all things considered. They are over sized and too long in length for their rated HP. Which causes more pressure drop. The "1000hp" IC's usually only make it to about 500-600 hp before the inlets start to rise pretty bad. The procharger one I saw in a link will flow enough CFM to make a TON of power because the cores are so short, and the pressure drop will be little. But if you can get it to 1000hp, the inlets will be out of control. Op needs to decide on what he can fit, and what is more important. Inlets or pressure drop. Figure out how much room you have and you can get as close to both as possible.
 

98 Saleen Cobra

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ehh I would have stuck with the A/W setup and just did a powerpipe setup that works... You are getting maf wash due to the bypass valve.. trust me I went through this.. Here is the solution.. I have zero driveablilty issues at all. I mean zero!! and I have a mondo bypass valve that moves a ton of air.. Oh forgot to mention this is at 17psi, and over 650rwhp.. IAT's were in the 70 degrees with a 100 degree weather.. I don't even have a upgraded heat exchanger yet either..

2011-11-02_23-27-01_344.jpg
 
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Brutal Metal

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The inlets you see when you drive around really mean absolutely nothing as to whether the IC is good enough for the job. The blower is not creating any boost, so no extra heat. The cfm is very low so it is in the IC longer, cooling it well.
.


pose this question mid August to the guys in the deep south and you'll get Many who will disagree including myself! With this wording you mines well not even bother intercooling:shrug:
 
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2003GTIZZLE

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Before I go any further I will put on my flame suit and prepare for battle....

I drive a mustang, among millions out there and I built it on a budget. The chinese intercooler I bought has helped my car run almost into the 10s while still maintaining that budget. I just cannot justify spending any more money on another intercooler when this one works fine for what I need it for.

Second, I also agree with the above poster that if you engineer your drawthrough setup right and take care of how the bypassed air gets re introduced, you can have a perfectly driveable car with zero issues.

JTR
 

98 Saleen Cobra

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Yup yup.. Wait till I get the C&R heat exchanger.. Not that I ever had heatsoak before but it'll be gone in the summer months here in AL..
 

Brutal Metal

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^^ I agree you don't need to spend $800-$1000 on an Intercooler to make 600HP, my gauge has been hitting 15psi with a 3.1/ stock crank damper, I'm not losing Any Boost surely not 3lbs!
 

98 Saleen Cobra

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^^ yea pretty much.. You can make the A/W setup work and work very well. But on the flip side a A/A setup is good too.
 

CPRsm

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pose this question mid August to the guys in the deep south and you'll get Many who will disagree including myself! With this wording you mines well not even bother intercooling:shrug:
What I'm getting at is that a IC's worth cannot be measured by the inlets you see driving around. No matter the weather or time of year. You can see the same by putting on an IC off a Honda. WOT inlets are how you see if your IC is worth a damn. :beer:
 

JP_Stang

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Listen I totally agree with your statement, however alot of people are missing a very good point that needs to be made with this brand of intercooler. Regardless of its construction in comparison to some of the other styles of intercoolers out there, these things have a great track record of making power and more importantly keeping the air very cool. I have not heard one story of poor quality, these blowing out, or not working as they should. Kurgan just tuned a 3" core CX racing unit on a SBF 363 motor that made just over 800hp with a YSI. Did the boost get robbed in the cooler yes, however the IAT temps were what was important.

I can drive my car anywhere anytime and the IATs are usually less then 7 to 10 degrees hotter then the ambient air temp. Not bad at all for a cooler that cost me less then 300bucks. Alot of people swear by how good these things cool, maybe its in the design and thats part of why they rob more pressure. Id rather have cooler air, I can always turn up the boost.

JTR

This really doesn't apply to my point at all, so i am not sure why you used my quote when you posted this??:shrug:

You and I are on totally different pages. Not one time since I have been giving the OP my opinion about intercoolers have I mentioned anything about the how well they are built. And as a matter of fact, if you read everything I have posted on this thread you will see where I stated that they do cool the air well. I am only talking about efficiency. Also, just because he doesn't purchase a CXRacing unit doesn't mean he won't have any intercooler at all, so I am not sure what you mean you say you would rather have cooler air? He is still going to have just as cool of air as you are, he just won't have turn his blower as hard to get the same boost levels as you, which inturn will create less heat in the air because the blower isn't working as hard.

I did not intend to start a debate about which intercooler is better than the next, and surely didn't mean to offend anyone. I am only stating the facts that I know from what I have seen and heard. I never told the OP not to purchase one, I just said if you decide to go bigger down the road you might want to look into something a little better so your not spending more money in the long run when you have to replace the parts holding you back.
 

96snake719

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See the thing is I dont mind spendin $400 on a brand new treadstone unit when I can turn around and prolly sell my aftercooler for $900 lol. 98saleen I have my set up almost identical to yours so I dont know what Im doing wrong. My inlet to the powerpipe isnt quite as close to the blower as yours but not by much, I would like it to be a little closer but... the piece that attaches to the throttle body is different obviously on a C intake and a B intake and I just cant get the same angle/positioning as you have. Yours is able to be put a little closer to the fire wall so you can come out and bring the hose right down inbetween the cooler and the fender. Mine is burried right into the strut tower, because like i said that particular piece of pipe only lets me put it there!
 
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98 Saleen Cobra

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I have better pics and I'll post them when I get home.. As for the angle you can do it too. just bring it closer to the blower.. Can you post a picture of your setup?? Also I hate to break it to you but there is no way you are going to get 900 for the aftercooler setup :(. There just isn't a market for them when you can piece together a A/A setup for around the same price.

Post up a pic of your setup.. Or I'll try to find it as i think you posted it once before.
 

96snake719

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Yea I figured as much I was gonna ask $900 can always go down lol and I really cant get the same angle its all in the way the throttle body is facing and the bends and dips in the discharge pipe, C intake throttle body points directly towards the fender, On on a B its slightly angled towards the front of the car as Im sure you know. I got a couple of crappy pics on my phone if you wanna shoot me your number I can text them to you.
 

96snake719

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right... I have a couple pics on my phone i can text to you if you want... no idea how to get them off my phone on to here.
 

98 Saleen Cobra

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I'll shoot you a pm in the morning.. But to load them try shooting the pics from your phone to your email, then upload them to photobucket or another site like that to post.
 

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