Fired up the new build. 9:1 Teksid, Cams....

[broke7]

Fired up the new build. 9:1 Teksid, 2.8H, Cams, ARH 1-3/4 x 3"....

After lots of offtime, two back to back deployments in 13/14, and taking up a primary hobby of downhill mountain biking I was able to finally get my motor together over the past couple of weeks, and get it fired up. S

till waiting on the rest of my exhaust to show up. The tune needs some work after the new combo vs stock-ish motor. Wont idle correctly without some unmetered air. All in all, fairly straight forward.

Hoping to make around 775-825 once its all lined out. Then either upgrade from the 2.8H or throw a small dry shot on the car. We dont have e85 up here in AK so I will use the Sunoco 110 as its treated me good over the years. I might start playing with that IRS/6speed/blower record again or just enjoy the car after not having it for so long. The thought of going 9's on factory 17's has always been cool, and I have been 10.30's on the 17's and DR's before. 6 months of Alaska winter 1st :dancenana:

Nothing to special here.....

4.6L, stock bore/stroke, block from a 93 Mark VIII
9:1 Teksid, Custom Arias Pistons.
New OEM heads outa plastic
Comp 3's...
Tooley Racing Springs
ARP 2000 everything (heads at 95 ft/lb)
Felpro HG's 1141 L&R (performance version)
Melling Oil Pump (pulled apart and inspected for relief valve sticking)
ARH 1-3/4 x 3" Headers

Small longevity/reliability improvements.
Upgraded timing guide chain dowels (RTUSNAKE) 13/64th Pin size
Mini Cooper 12mm Cam Bolts (120 ft/lb)
ARP Custom Cam washers
Studded Crank Mod (160 ft/lb)
UPR Poly Motor Mounts
All new sensors on motor
New FRPP Timing kit
All new 8 COP's

Had the covers coated while they were out, and the waterpipe as well.


Some pics during/after the build, and fireup videos below.

ARP mini cooper bolt vs stock

ARP Washer vs stock

Finished deal...

First fireup.... 1-3/4 x 3" ARH Open headers, Xpipe and rest of system are on the way....
http://youtu.be/waR08g5aBOA

Outside video
http://youtu.be/qnnqeD-9vKo

 

[badblacklx]

Nice!!! Ready to see this beast in action again!

 

[MIDTNSVT]

That my friend is AWESOME!!!

 

[99cobrajn]

sick!!

 

[99cobra09]

That ARP bolt, is that the crank bolt/washer?

 

[broke7]

That ARP bolt, is that the crank bolt/washer?

That is the 12mm cam Bolt next to a stock 10mm bolt, and respective upgraded ARP washer.

You can see the crank stud in the very 1st pic, has a 12pt nut and 2 washers behind it.

The crank stud is 9/16 and you have to drill the crank via machine shop. Much better balancer retention, and it disperses the load on the snout greatly and reduces sheer force. Little bit of safeguard against the snapped crank snout ordeal that happens on some cars.

 

[PWORLDSTANG]

Nice! It's been a long time coming. You will pick up a good amount of power from where you were.

 

[kirks5oh]

Not many here may realize you are one of the first people to pave the way with these cars. Congrats on the new build. Looking forward to seeing some footage of this beast. I know the winter we are in for, here in Wisconsin. I can only imagine Alaska.

 

[CobraBob]

Excellent work, Allen, as always. You are indeed a Terminator pioneer in every sense of the word. The motor sounds really nice. I, too, look forward to seeing some street/track videos next Spring/Summer.

Those Mini Cooper 12mm cam bolts are actual factory Mini Cooper cam bolts? I own a '14 Mini Cooper S and was surprised to see "Mini Cooper" anything in your parts list. LOL.

 

[Lstruck03]

looks great!

And I like that you are rocking a old school Strictly inlet. I haven't seen one of those in a looonng time

 

[da5deuce]

Now THAT is a cammed terminator! Sounds BEAUTIFUL OP!

 

[Mentos]

No joke fo sho!

 

[spyder1337]

Sounds good man, always enjoy watching your stuff.

 

[Jamie R.]

Congrats on getting it back together and it sounds great!

Jamie R.

 

[sc4.6]

Your car sounds great with those cams. What did you degree them in at, the comp specs?

 

[oldmodman]

Great carrythrough with all your build plans. It's all come together perfectly.

I have a question about the crank snout drilling. How far down did you end up going? Just past the very front journal or almost all the way to the first rod journal?

I remember that Ed had quite an involved discussion about it a few years ago.

 

[broke7]

Sorry for the late reply everyone, I have been on the road in Japan with sketchy service.

looks great!

And I like that you are rocking a old school Strictly inlet. I haven't seen one of those in a looonng time

I will probably keep this inlet long after the blower is gone. Awesome piece, and I think its honestly better than what KB offers due to the radius on the inlet vs a boxed inlet like the mammoth. I was told there were only 4 made. I got mine from James aka Rattfink before he sold his car.

Not many here may realize you are one of the first people to pave the way with these cars. Congrats on the new build. Looking forward to seeing some footage of this beast. I know the winter we are in for, here in Wisconsin. I can only imagine Alaska.

Im just happy to be around and still share what I can with the community. I may not be as fast as some of the turbo guys and automatic guys, but I its still fun as hell!

Excellent work, Allen, as always. You are indeed a Terminator pioneer in every sense of the word. The motor sounds really nice. I, too, look forward to seeing some street/track videos next Spring/Summer.

Those Mini Cooper 12mm cam bolts are actual factory Mini Cooper cam bolts? I own a '14 Mini Cooper S and was surprised to see "Mini Cooper" anything in your parts list. LOL.

Thanks Bob! I will snagging some gaskets from you soon, I have had your orginal deal since you offered them and one finally let go, and I reverted back to RTV. Those are ARP bolts.....not the factory ones.

Now THAT is a cammed terminator! Sounds BEAUTIFUL OP!

Thanks!

Your car sounds great with those cams. What did you degree them in at, the comp specs?

I did them straight up....did not degree. 1/2 ass? Maybe

Great carrythrough with all your build plans. It's all come together perfectly.

I have a question about the crank snout drilling. How far down did you end up going? Just past the very front journal or almost all the way to the first rod journal?

I remember that Ed had quite an involved discussion about it a few years ago.

I cant remember the thread, but I had some stuff printed out that I gave to the shop. You can run the stud fairly deep almost all the way to the #1 (obviously not putting it thru), but deeper is better. I tq'd mine to 160 ft/lb's with no issues. I dont think its really addresses the issue of a smaller crank snout, but its sure as hell will disperse the load alot better.

 

[Brutal Metal]

Congrats! One of the fast IRS cars I've admired for many years....

 

[stangfreak]

The legend is back!

 

[broke7]

Spent some time on the road since I last updated. Car is ready for the dyno now, and I have exhaust on it. I also upgraded to 80lb Injectors.


Had some issues with the idle at 1st, and come to find out the IAC was extremely lazy or pretty dead. Replaced IAC, then Had to go back and do a base idle reset via adjusting the TB screw until the motor would idle without the IAC connected. Lastly, I adjusted TPSv until it was within range. This new motor wanted alot more idle air than the previous combo.

Eric @ Brooksspeed worked his magic thru the email and datlogging and car idle perfect at 775-800rpm with no issues, no stalling etc.

Cold start has a little surge, but this is an overnight cold start at 20 degrees in Alaska setting overnight. Only does this on a true overnight cold start... Not bad...and clears up really quickly.
http://youtu.be/RGbrdNwEwbQ


Warm Idle, pulling -10 Vac, and 775rpm idle
http://youtu.be/ymzNvpf9iJw