Everyone else is trying HDR - why not me? *Lightning Warning*

Chili

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The effects aren't as exaggerated as some others, but I still like the result. This is true HDR, not the cheating photoshop way...

Comments welcome.


hdr1amj3.jpg


hdr2awt6.jpg
 
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4fit?

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1st pic FTW. Definitely a lot better than some of the other HDR stuff posted recently.
 

JasonSnake

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Ah OK. I used to roam on another forum, impalassforum.com when I used to have my Roadmaster LT1. There was a guy with the same screen name on there so I thought it was you. I believe he was a musician.
 

Chili

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and a couple more for the cause...

the second of these came out really dark, but I kind of like it...

hdr4wh8.jpg


hdr3zh0.jpg
 

CobraBob

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Great pics and an awesome Lightning. Can someone explain what the difference is between a Photoshop HDR and a "regular" HDR? I'm new at this and actually just found out last week what HDR was. I just assumed it was something obtained through a photo editor.
 

4fit?

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Great pics and an awesome Lightning. Can someone explain what the difference is between a Photoshop HDR and a "regular" HDR? I'm new at this and actually just found out last week what HDR was. I just assumed it was something obtained through a photo editor.


A True HDR is accomplished by taking 3 or more captures of the same scene at different exposure settings. This can be accomplished easily with most SLRs and some higher end P&S cameras by selecting the Bracketting setting on the camera. These seperate images are then merged or layered in PhotoShop or Photomatix. A few tone map adjustments here and there and you're done.

A Photoshop "HDR" is when someone takes one picture and adjust it's exposures in Photoshop to attain the 3+ different images to use for the merge. The problem with doing this is that anything that wasn't captured in the original image will still not show once the "HDR" is done.

The whole point of HDR is to attain a greater dynamic range so that more detail can be seen across the entire image. For example, a properly exposed picture of a car might have a slightly washed out sky. If another image of this exact scene is taken in an underexposed fashion, more detail will be brought back into the sky. So, by bracketting the shot to take one underexposed, one correctly exposed, and one overexposed shot, you can use one of the aformentioned programs to assemble these seperate exposures into one image with the correct exposure range over the whole scene.

The example I gave of the sky being washed out is exactly why I'm not keen on the Photoshop "HDR" stuff. If you started out with that image where the sky is washed out, no amount of adjustments in Photoshop is going to bring back the detail in the sky because the image sensor never saw that there was detail there. Thus negating the whole true purpose of HDR. Now, I'm not saying that some of those Photoshop "HDR"s don't come out looking really trick. But they are not HDRs image. They are more like tone-mapped images.

Anyways, I hope this helps provide a little insight Bob. And, just for kicks, I thought I'd post up this HDR image. This, IMO, is one of the best HDRs I have ever seen. I often find myself looking at it multiple times throughout the day. Simply amazing. Oh, there is also a group over at flickr.com dedicated to HDR shots of automobiles.
2277770487_d8373bb07f_b.jpg
 
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CobraBob

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A True HDR is accomplished by taking 3 or more captures of the same scene at different exposure settings. This can be accomplished easily with most SLRs and some higher end P&S cameras by selecting the Bracketting setting on the camera. These seperate images are then merged or layered in PhotoShop or Photomatix. A few tone map adjustments here and there and you're done.

A Photoshop "HDR" is when someone takes one picture and adjust it's exposures in Photoshop to attain the 3+ different images to use for the merge. The problem with doing this is that anything that wasn't captured in the original image will still not show once the "HDR" is done.

The whole point of HDR is to attain a greater dynamic range so that more detail can be seen across the entire image. For example, a properly exposed picture of a car might have a slightly washed out sky. If another image of this exact scene is taken in an underexposed fashion, more detail will be brought back into the sky. So, by bracketting the shot to take one underexposed, one correctly exposed, and one overexposed shot, you can use one of the aformentioned programs to assemble these seperate exposures into one image with the correct exposure range over the whole scene.

The example I gave of the sky being washed out is exactly why I'm not keen on the Photoshop "HDR" stuff. If you started out with that image where the sky is washed out, no amount of adjustments in Photoshop is going to bring back the detail in the sky because the image sensor never saw that there was detail there. Thus negating the whole true purpose of HDR. Now, I'm not saying that some of those Photoshop "HDR"s don't come out looking really trick. But they are not HDRs image. They are more like tone-mapped images.

Anyways, I hope this helps provide a little insight Bob. And, just for kicks, I thought I'd post up this HDR image. This, IMO, is one of the best HDRs I have ever seen. I often find myself looking at it multiple times throughout the day. Simply amazing. Oh, there is also a group over at flickr.com dedicated to HDR shots of automobiles.

Thanks for the GREAT explanation. You should be a teacher. LOL! Nice pic you posted, too. Thanks again! :thumbsup:
 
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CobraBob

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As I look at that picture again, I see what you mean. It's hard not to keep looking at it. Awesome!! :rockon:
 

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