Eagle internals max hp?

[Brutal Metal]

Ah, fair enough. Personally I think .020 is pretty large, considering .030 is about the max .020 is over half the useful life of a modular shortblock. While it's a common size and pistons are readily available for the bore I'd strongly suggest people not go straight to .020 over. On cars with higher cylinder pressures keeping the meat in the walls is very important. However, on a 500-600rwhp car it won't matter really.

Do you remember back a good number of years ago a shop on here was taking .060 out of the sleeves and having custom pistons made? STUPID!! We tried to do my Teksid block .010 but the score in cylinder 7 needed more so I had to go .020.

 

[Brutal Metal]

Thanks for all the help guys, I decided to re use my crank, but the thing I'm really confused about is how to get the compression I want, so I decided on 9.5:1 for my turbo setup, going with MMR for my internals, standard 3.525 Stroke, what does my dish have to be to get that ratio?

Nice I guess the OP reread my MMR post. Yeah we know they have a somewhat shading rep for THEIR shortblocks but they give great deals on pistons and rods that are quality pieces.
A high single digit cc dish will get you near where you wanna be, I wouldn't do a flat top.

 

[Brutal Metal]

.

Since most aftermarket piston manufacturers make a Flat Top (10.69:1 CR), -4 cc (10.08:1), -11 cc (9.19:1), or -18 cc (8.45:1) the choice will be yours.

there's -8 cc's floating around the market too.

 

[52merc]

JE makes 5 pistons at 9.5:1 CR.
PN 314629 is stock bore with a -6.6 cc dish.
PN 314630 is a 0.010" overbore with a -7.0 cc dish.
PM 314631 is a 0.020" overbore with a -7.3 cc dish.
PN 314632 is a 0.070" overbore with a -9.0 cc dish.
PN 314633 is a 0.149" overbore with a -11.8 cc dish.

These CRs are calculated by JE using a 53 cc Chamber Volume, 3.543" Stroke, 5.933" Rod Length, 1.220" Compression Ht, 8.925" Deck Ht, and JE Head Gasket with 3.630" Diameter and 0.039" Compressed Ht.

The .010" or 0.020" overbore are probably more in line with what you are looking for. Just letting you know what is available. I'm not making any recommendations here.

 

[Need 04 Wine]

So I need an engine rebuild and considering to Vortech supercharge afterwards for 500-550 WHP for my 01 Cobra.

I'm stuck on what compression ratio to get for my Eagle 302 Stroker kit. So what's recommended for that? I want to get 10.8:1 since the Coyotes has 11.1:1 I think? So why go any lower?

This is what I'm getting but no where does it say how much HP it can handle.

https://www.lethalperformance.com/e...w-forged-crankshaft-4cc-pistons-020-over.html

Thanks for all the help guys, I decided to re use my crank, but the thing I'm really confused about is how to get the compression I want, so I decided on 9.5:1 for my turbo setup, going with MMR for my internals, standard 3.525 Stroke, what does my dish have to be to get that ratio?

Might make a difference if the FI has changed, I'm nowhere near enough of any kind of expert to know though

 

[Nightmare302]

If you've switched to an intercooled turbo I'd run a flat top piston or flat top with valve reliefs. The added compression will help with off boost and spooling.

 

[Daryl Mozart]

so apparently the spun rod bearing is a common problem because at high revs the heads get more oil built up then the shortblock so the factory stated 6.2l of oil isn't enough, so for future purposes do I put 7 liters of oil? 5w-20 or 30? I had 30 in last time, maybe should be thinner.

 

[Brutal Metal]

I don't go by liters, I put 7 quarts of oil in my Cobra and most others do the same. The oem pan can easily hold that much.
And use 5W30.

 

[Daryl Mozart]

I don't go by liters, I put 7 quarts of oil in my Cobra and most others do the same. The oem pan can easily hold that much.
And use 5W30.

Sorry I meant quarts, yup, I'm guessing if I did put 7 quarts instead of 6.2 I wouldn't have this expensive problem right now... thanks ford.

 

[RX1Cobra]

I don't think putting in the 6 qts was your problem. It was it not being checked. I'd bet you were well under 6 qts when this happened. These cars use some oil and adding in 7 qts gives you a little more room for error and is what most people do.

 

[Daryl Mozart]

I don't think putting in the 6 qts was your problem. It was it not being checked. I'd bet you were well under 6 qts when this happened. These cars use some oil and adding in 7 qts gives you a little more room for error and is what most people do.

I changed the oil like 2 months ago, I put exactly 6.2

 

[01yellercobra]

Sorry I meant quarts, yup, I'm guessing if I did put 7 quarts instead of 6.2 I wouldn't have this expensive problem right now... thanks ford.

It's been a known issue for as long as I can remember. I've run 7 quarts in both of my Cobras.

 

[Daryl Mozart]

I feel like we have a responsibility to warn new Cobra owners about this when they make their first thread from now on haha

 

[01yellercobra]

I feel like we have a responsibility to warn new Cobra owners about this when they make their first thread from now on haha

Lol. I think we used to do that. But then there aren't as many "what oil should I run" threads anymore so we don't think about it as much.

 

[na svt]

Thanks for all the help guys, I decided to re use my crank, but the thing I'm really confused about is how to get the compression I want, so I decided on 9.5:1 for my turbo setup, going with MMR for my internals, standard 3.525 Stroke, what does my dish have to be to get that ratio?

flat tops are 10.4:1
7 cc are 9.5:1

 

[na svt]

My car has 130k miles you sure the stock crank is still good? It has no physical damage.

the crank will be good

 

[Daryl Mozart]

Sorry to dig the thread back up, I decided on -6cc to lower the compression a bit but not much, just wondering if I stayed N/A for now, how much less power would I have? Also since I'm going with a .20 overbore, do all my bearings need to be 0.20 oversized as well? Thanks

 

[Nightmare302]

Sorry to dig the thread back up, I decided on -6cc to lower the compression a bit but not much, just wondering if I stayed N/A for now, how much less power would I have? Also since I'm going with a .20 overbore, do all my bearings need to be 0.20 oversized as well? Thanks

Every half point is good for about ~25rwhp. That's a very basic rule of thumb that's not entirely accurate.

.020 overbore not .20. Your pistons will come with the correct rings for the new bore. Bearings have nothing to do with pistons. You'd use an oversized bearing when your crank is turned down to a smaller size.

 

[Daryl Mozart]

Every half point is good for about ~25rwhp. That's a very basic rule of thumb that's not entirely accurate.

.020 overbore not .20. Your pistons will come with the correct rings for the new bore. Bearings have nothing to do with pistons. You'd use an oversized bearing when your crank is turned down to a smaller size.

So by the rules of "maybe" logic, if I went with 10.5:1, 50 whp? On MMR, it's giving me a choice, for bore size I chose 0.020, piston size has an option for 0.020 oversize but I should leave that one to standard right?

 

[Brutal Metal]

So by the rules of "maybe" logic, if I went with 10.5:1, 50 whp? On MMR, it's giving me a choice, for bore size I chose 0.020, piston size has an option for 0.020 oversize but I should leave that one to standard right?

Wow not to be mean but you don't understand that if you bore your block .020 over you need the same .020 pistons? And once again forget about 10.5 compression Run a low single digit dish for the fourth time...