viperbluelx said:You're right, it's pretty safe, and Eaton's don't make any heat either.
there lies the problem with the eaton swap...HEAT. Well any blower will make heat...it's a natural by product of compression. however the eaton makes a ton
Dyno Numbers with Eaton!
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there lies the problem with the eaton swap...HEAT. Well any blower will make heat...it's a natural by product of compression. however the eaton makes a ton
The problem is that the eaton itself doesn't compress the air. The cmopression occurs post blower in the lower intake in a very inefficient manor, thus HEAT!!
SanDiego01Snake said:time for a big bore forged motor and a lot of boost...
Different engine builders that I have talked to say this setup is not the greatest for high boost. I want to run 12-14 lbs on my new motor and both houston performance and VT have recommended the stroker over the big bore. I have no idea what to do.
Darton mid-sleeves
nuff said.
Of course if you're planning on boosting the piss out of the motor, there's no need to do anything but a standard bore, standard stroke build. It's the strongest option and you can still make 800+ if you want to.
nuff said.
Of course if you're planning on boosting the piss out of the motor, there's no need to do anything but a standard bore, standard stroke build. It's the strongest option and you can still make 800+ if you want to.
I wouldn't be so concerned with heat from the eaton at only 8 lbs.
At 8 pounds no probably not. It's still going to be quite a bit hotter than any other blower at the comparable 8psi, but as long as the tune is there and there's no fuel issues I don't see why the motor wouldn't last a long time with this setup.
Still, no real need for the stroker.
on a 12 psi or so D1 you'll make good power. Probably near or slightly over 500rwhp. If you're not aiming for the sky, why fix something that's not broken. Cheaper too.
on a 12 psi or so D1 you'll make good power. Probably near or slightly over 500rwhp. If you're not aiming for the sky, why fix something that's not broken. Cheaper too.
yea, and other blowers produce no heat at all, right? i understand that eatons make more heat than other setups. that's a given. however, like 19COBRA93 said, i am only running 8 lbs. and on top of that, the stage 3 and 4 ports are shown to decrease IAT's by 20°F. so that will help too. i'm sorry i didn't go with the most efficient route. :-D also, i was going to ask, what would you suggest on timing then? you seem to think 16 is pretty extreme. that's what Double"O" runs w/ his KB and that is also what Quadcammer suggested as a safe tune.viperbluelx said:You're right, it's pretty safe, and Eaton's don't make any heat either.
On the street during this fall and winter his post blower temps will be in the 80 - 120 degree range with the air to water intercooler. Heat is not a factor...for now.
Rio, I still strongly recommend the IAT2 sensor so spark retard with ACT in the ECC can properly do it's job.
Congrats on the excellent results and hard work! How much info did Steig give you about the tune they put on it? Are the knock sensors disabled? How much engine load are you seeing? Etc etc...
Rio, I still strongly recommend the IAT2 sensor so spark retard with ACT in the ECC can properly do it's job.
Congrats on the excellent results and hard work! How much info did Steig give you about the tune they put on it? Are the knock sensors disabled? How much engine load are you seeing? Etc etc...
i know, i love this cool weather for power! give me some time on that IAT2 sensor. it will be done, don't worry! :thumbsup:
as for tune, i think he said something like 1.4 engine load. don't quote me though. i'm not even sure what that means. and the knock sensors were supposed to be disabled. but my SES light came on the other night. checked the codes and said KNK 1 and KNK 2 Error. i told Jim about it and he said he turned them off. he said he'll call me tomorrow after he talks to SCT.
as for tune, i think he said something like 1.4 engine load. don't quote me though. i'm not even sure what that means. and the knock sensors were supposed to be disabled. but my SES light came on the other night. checked the codes and said KNK 1 and KNK 2 Error. i told Jim about it and he said he turned them off. he said he'll call me tomorrow after he talks to SCT.
As far as the Eaton vs. KB heat discussion...
With both blowers operating at max efficiency, they will produce the same amount of heat. I have downstream temp logs of both blowers on intercooled setups.
When overspinning the blowers, they REALLY generate some heat. I have a log of a KB 2.2L @ 23psi running through the traps at 170 degrees IAT2. That is very hot for an intercooled setup.
A lot of people don't realize the effect of IAT2 temps, and how timing retard comes into play. I have seen a car go from running through the traps at 24 degrees of timing, to 13 degrees of timing from high IAT2 temps. This is programmed on purpose. Pulling this timing out saves motors. It also kills MPH and power.
With both blowers operating at max efficiency, they will produce the same amount of heat. I have downstream temp logs of both blowers on intercooled setups.
When overspinning the blowers, they REALLY generate some heat. I have a log of a KB 2.2L @ 23psi running through the traps at 170 degrees IAT2. That is very hot for an intercooled setup.
A lot of people don't realize the effect of IAT2 temps, and how timing retard comes into play. I have seen a car go from running through the traps at 24 degrees of timing, to 13 degrees of timing from high IAT2 temps. This is programmed on purpose. Pulling this timing out saves motors. It also kills MPH and power.
99riocobra said:
I worry, LOL...it's just because we use that IAT2 temp as gospel at the track on our cars.
140% load...not too shabby dude! Load is just a measurement of how much air is entering the motor at a certain RPM, with respect to engine displacement.
I'm sure they'll get the knock sensor codes taken care of. They can eliminate the EEC's ability to throw the codes in something called the "system switches" with the dealer software.
ha. i see, i see. i will get on top of that!03Steve said:
good deal! i was wondering what he meant when he was telling me that!03Steve said:
oh i see. hopefully he figures it out tomorrow. i will tell him this info though if he didn't. while i'm talking with you though, when i checked my codes the night after my dyno when my SES light came on, it also showed the code P0190 Fuel Pres Sensor Error. my fuel pressure gauge reads spot on 30-31 psi at idle and goes up to almost 60 at around 5000 and falls to 50 ish at 6000. so i know the sensor itself is still good. i told Jim this too and like i said before, he is going to call SCT. i didn't know if you knew of anything. thanks!03Steve said:
stock fuel pump with 20amp KB Boost-a-Pump. 42 lb. injector(green top). if it matters, the fuel rails and the sensor that mounts at the end of the driver side rail are from an 03.
Great numbers!
Off topic but what did you do about wiring? Did you use your 99 harness or 03-04 harness?
Off topic but what did you do about wiring? Did you use your 99 harness or 03-04 harness?
99riocobra said:
Curious...are you using the pressure switch to activate the BAP? If so, remove it, and connect the two wires together to run the BAP full time. I can go into detail on why and provide logs on what this prevents if necessary.
As far as the fuel pressure increasing under WOT...there are a number of reasons this can happen via tuning on the 1999 ZMR2 processor. Typically, a tuner will only need to command a higher than 40psi fuel pressure on the returnless for one reason. The injectors are reaching their maximum ability to deliver fuel. FYI - all fuel injectors receive their rating with respect to 40 psi of fuel pressure.
Sometimes, there are other reasons to command higher fuel pressure. High intake air temps, and ect temps. These are a standard safety measures to prevent detonation.
Your P190 code is somewhat common in the returnless fuel system. This can be generated in a number of ways. After reading what your fuel pressure is at idle, here is what I think is the most common cause...
The returnless fuel system continuously runs a test on itself. In stock form, the ZMR2 processor on a 99 Cobra will throw this code if your fuel pressure falls below 28 psi for 8 seconds. With your fuel pressure around 30 psi at idle, you are very close to this 28 psi threshold. FYI - many tuners set this test scenario to 35 psi for 1.5 seconds to keep a closer tab on the fuel system.
Your fuel pressure should be around 40 psi continuously. WOT, idle, driving. Unless the injector is close to it's maximum ability to deliver fuel, where the tuner can increase fuel pressure to increase the injector's flow rate. Or, for the safety measures outlined above.
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