Dyno Numbers with Eaton!

[viperbluelx]

Your fuel pressure should be around 40 psi continuously. WOT, idle, driving. Unless the injector is close to it's maximum ability to deliver fuel, where the tuner can increase fuel pressure to increase the injector's flow rate. Or, for the safety measures outlined above.

I was under the impression that "fuel rail pressure" would fluctuate on the gauge and on the datalogs and that the important thing is that "pressure drop across injectors" stayed at or around 40psi all the time and if it does stay around 40 then I'm good to go?

 

[03Steve]

I was under the impression that "fuel rail pressure" would fluctuate on the gauge and on the datalogs and that the important thing is that "pressure drop across injectors" stayed at or around 40psi all the time and if it does stay around 40 then I'm good to go?

The fuel pressure does fluctuate, yes. It's the nature of the system. The target is 40psi typically, unless high ECT and/or ACT conditions occur...or if the tune has been modified.

The reading I am referring to is taken by the fuel rail pressure sensor, and is refered to as "pressure drop across fuel injectors" by datalogging software. The only time to be majorly concerned with the returnless is when 100% duty cycle is reached, and fuel pressure is steadily falling off. This is what we are seeing with the twin Ford GT pumps on a single FPDM without a BAP. That is a whole other subject though.

BTW - I talked to Bob Cosby about the Moroso front springs. He said he took two coils off and achieved stock-like ride height. How much did you take off on your white car again?

 

[ex-PJs snake]

FYI - for my street tunes, I use the knock sensors. For the track tunes, I turn them off to prevent timing retard from false knock sensor activation.

I called and talked with my SCT tuner today and he suggested doing what you have mentioned you are doing above: leave on for street use (being I daily drive it) and deactivating/turning off when I use the Cobra for my amatuer open track/auto-x 'adventures' (which I would have to get him to do being I do not use a handheld such as X-Cal, etc). Push come to shove though, he said I could opt to deactivate them as a daily driver dependent upon how much timing is being pulled, as you have also mentioned.

Thanks, Steve, much appreciated for the information/suggestions.

 

[ex-PJs snake]

My knock sensors were pulling either 6 or 8 degrees of timing after I installed my Procharger...

Wow.

I turned them off and the car runs much better and I haven't had any issues. It's just the noise from the blower was giving false signals all the time.

viperbluelx, is that car a daily driver or near that?
Even with what my SCT tuner mentioned (in my reply to Steve above), I may still consider turning them off/deactivating them if there are no issues, as you have mentioned, especially when applied to a daily driver application. And that noise from your Procharger, are you referring to that whistling-impeller spin noise of the s/c?

 

[99riocobra]

just think, 03/04 cobras don't have knock sensors. i'm sure more than a few are dd as well. just a thought...

i think the noise of the blower combined with extra vibrations from a higher air velocity trips the knock sensors on accident.

also, you said you talked with SCT about the knock sensor adjustment. can i turn these off with my xcal? or do i need to go to a tuner with SCT software? thanks!

 

[ex-PJs snake]

also, you said you talked with SCT about the knock sensor adjustment. can i turn these off with my xcal? or do i need to go to a tuner with SCT software?

I cannot really say, 99riocobra, on the X-Cal mention (being I do not use a handheld such as X-Cal), but I believe, if I understood him (my SCT tuner) correctly, that he/the tuner can deactivate them through his SCT programming/software. I am thinking that you might be able to turn them off/deactivate them through your X-Cal, but I am basing this upon viperbluelx's mention that he turned his off. I may be reading his mention wrong though, not sure, other than the tuner can turn them off/deactivate them.

 

[01laser]

Well, i'm dropping my car off at MPH(modular powerhouse) friday to have the same thing done..looks great. What were your major complications if any and how many actual hours we're you wrenching and fabricating?

 

[99riocobra]

pm'd you.

 

[UCBeau]

bringing this to the top to say thank you to 99riocobra for laying things out in such a detailed manner and thanks to 03steve for also laying down some great tech in here. this thread will be a big help for me

 

[Double"O"]

no kidding the meat from this post should be a sticky!

 

[99riocobra]

bringing this to the top to say thank you to 99riocobra for laying things out in such a detailed manner and thanks to 03steve for also laying down some great tech in here. this thread will be a big help for me

thanks a lot man! i'm glad so many other s could benefit from it! that was the goal....

no kidding the meat from this post should be a sticky!

i know i've said it before, but i would like to make one big compilation thread with all of my previous threads as well as some info from this thread as well. maybe that will be my weekend project.....

 

[UCBeau]

That parts list posted in another thread also is gonna be a huge help for me.

Though I suspect if this all goes down, I won't have the eaton on for long

 

[99riocobra]

yea, i can't imagine i'd stick with the eaton for long either with a built bottom end.....yes, that parts list with the part numbers was a big help for mee as well. it's missing a few things though just so you know. off the top of my head i know that lis didn't mention the PS main feed hose and return lines. i compiled a more basic list myself that is most definitely complete, i just don't have the part numbers. i ddn't use those much anyway. i made the list for the big thread anyway, so it will be on there.

 

[UCBeau]

thanks for the heads up. i have been talking with a guy on here about the eaton stuff he has and am waiting to hear back on what is not in the kit he's sitting on. once i figure out what i need, i'll be able to get a better handle on the potential cost.