DYNO: Before and After AED Tune

[denali33]

Hoping to hit at least 400 at the wheels with this setup, car has some timing removed to some sketchy gas in the area better safe than sorry. I would think between removing the cats + CAI revised it would be reasonable to bump from 384/400 ..we shall see!

 

[Rdrcr]

^^^^
I'm heading to AED to have Shaun tune my GT next week. I'll post my results.

My Airaid CAI w/insert dyno'd +8whp/+5wtq on the factory tune.

Mike

 

[me32]

If you open up the front airbox inlet to fresh air via removing the Fog light (installing aftermarket grille) and on the 13/14s modifying the plate that blocks the stock airbox opening, there should by Dyno 'Hood Open' type of gains on the street/track as this modification will force cooler air into the CAI.

This method that shaun stated works really well. I used this on my auto 2103 5.0. Car actually got better mpg with that mod on the stock air box.

 

[dead man walkin]

I currently have bama. But before next year I'm pretty sure I'm switching to aed. I'll post a bama to aed back to back hopefully.

 

[twistedneck]

My cobra jet intake setup gets very hot.. and since there is no way to fully seal my custom air box and huge 4.5" tube i don't think this Mod will help. thought about wrapping the entire thing with a thermal blanket but then it would also hold in the heat.

Any ideas appreciated.

 

[Voltwings]

My main experience is with turbo cars, so i cant really speak as far as N//a is concerned, although the principle might be the same.

Using a thermal gun, as well as the temp sensor in the MAP sensor (this was located in our intake manifold to measure boost air temps), we confirmed that while the charge pipes (or in our case the intake) were hot to the touch, the air coming by was still cool at idle, basically around ambient. The thought here was that while the pipes were hot, the air was not spending enough time in the pipes to absorb a significant amount of heat, it would basically just rush through and only pick up a slight amount of heat, and this was in a 2.5" charge pipe... i imagine with our 4-5" intakes, that also arent recieving nearly as much engine bay heat, the amount of heatsoak from the intake would be minimal.

The manifold itself however, is basically a giant heat sink sitting on top of the valley, and THAT is an issue i would like to address somehow. I have a '13 with the vents in the hood, which have to help some, but its hard to measure how much. On the Ms3 we would remove the rear weather stripping to allow more heat to blow out the back of the hood, but it doesnt seem as viable on the mustang A. because of the rear cowl design, and B. because theres not a giant hood scoop haha. Theres that $80 thermal blanket thing designed for the Boss intake, which should fit a CJ intake as well, but i believe that thing has yet to be "proven," as of yet... I was very meticulous about cooling on my Ms3, but already having a Gt500 style grille and hood vents, its hard to really take any more drastic measures on this car.

 

[twistedneck]

My main experience is with turbo cars, so i cant really speak as far as N//a is concerned, although the principle might be the same.

Using a thermal gun, as well as the temp sensor in the MAP sensor (this was located in our intake manifold to measure boost air temps), we confirmed that while the charge pipes (or in our case the intake) were hot to the touch, the air coming by was still cool at idle, basically around ambient. The thought here was that while the pipes were hot, the air was not spending enough time in the pipes to absorb a significant amount of heat, it would basically just rush through and only pick up a slight amount of heat, and this was in a 2.5" charge pipe... i imagine with our 4-5" intakes, that also arent recieving nearly as much engine bay heat, the amount of heatsoak from the intake would be minimal.

The manifold itself however, is basically a giant heat sink sitting on top of the valley, and THAT is an issue i would like to address somehow. I have a '13 with the vents in the hood, which have to help some, but its hard to measure how much. On the Ms3 we would remove the rear weather stripping to allow more heat to blow out the back of the hood, but it doesnt seem as viable on the mustang A. because of the rear cowl design, and B. because theres not a giant hood scoop haha. Theres that $80 thermal blanket thing designed for the Boss intake, which should fit a CJ intake as well, but i believe that thing has yet to be "proven," as of yet... I was very meticulous about cooling on my Ms3, but already having a Gt500 style grille and hood vents, its hard to really take any more drastic measures on this car.

Very good information.. i wont worry so much about the hot CAI and TB. I made an under intake insulator and it did not help, seems as if the conduction heat up the runners from the heads is what really heats up the intake more than the ambient convection flowing up from the cylinder valley. I didn't use a thermocouple or a pyrometer just my hand saying - damn its still really hot even with the insulation under the intake.

 

[Voltwings]

Sometimes thats scientific enough haha. We used thermal gaskets between the head and manifold, but i'm not sure how effective that would be on the mustang, let alone if it would even fit.
This is just a basic example of what we would use, and they seemed to have a profound effect, granted our intake manifold was aluminum and would just act like a giant heat sink once it was already heat soaked. I'm not sure if the manifold being on top of the engine would still end up absorbing large amounts of heat, or if the conduction from the heads really is the main source of heat like you said... i'm willing to bet it is, but since the mustang only uses O-rings around the runners and not an actual gasket, our options may be limited.

http://www.jamesbaroneracing.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=125_127&products_id=240

 

[twistedneck]

Sometimes thats scientific enough haha. We used thermal gaskets between the head and manifold, but i'm not sure how effective that would be on the mustang, let alone if it would even fit.
This is just a basic example of what we would use, and they seemed to have a profound effect, granted our intake manifold was aluminum and would just act like a giant heat sink once it was already heat soaked. I'm not sure if the manifold being on top of the engine would still end up absorbing large amounts of heat, or if the conduction from the heads really is the main source of heat like you said... i'm willing to bet it is, but since the mustang only uses O-rings around the runners and not an actual gasket, our options may be limited.

http://www.jamesbaroneracing.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=125_127&products_id=240

Dear OP thanks for allowing us to hijack your thread.. i promise it will be back on track this is the last one from me on heat, maybe it will actually contribute to a new tune with cold runners

Voltwings, how the hell can we add an insulating gasket instead of the o-rings? seems like a very simple way to gain HP by not heating up teh intake too bad, then the tb, cai, etc..

 

[Voltwings]

Dear OP thanks for allowing us to hijack your thread.. i promise it will be back on track this is the last one from me on heat, maybe it will actually contribute to a new tune with cold runners

Voltwings, how the hell can we add an insulating gasket instead of the o-rings? seems like a very simple way to gain HP by not heating up teh intake too bad, then the tb, cai, etc..

I'll start us our own thread.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...ake-the-intake-cooler&p=14194857#post14194857