Disabling ABS
- Thread starter GreyAsp
- Start date
Why would you want to?
i would think there is a fuse for it?
if so pull it
I know I did that on my old truck when the abs module went out and it would start cycling the abs in the dry at anything under 8 mph which almost led to a couple accidents.
****in gm wouldn't include my 97 in the recall, only 98-00 if I remember correctly
if so pull it
I know I did that on my old truck when the abs module went out and it would start cycling the abs in the dry at anything under 8 mph which almost led to a couple accidents.
****in gm wouldn't include my 97 in the recall, only 98-00 if I remember correctly
If your ABS isn't malfunctioned, why the heck would you disable a better stopping brake system?
Look at the Dodge Viper Pre-2001 for case of point.
Look at the Dodge Viper Pre-2001 for case of point.
Dis-abled ABS = Flat spotted tires = TMFL $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Damn, Jimmy. Tell us how you really feel, LOL.
Wellllllll
I'm still not convinced it is the best thing.
Here's why.
I've found my ABS cycling at inopportune times.
I realize if they weren't I would probably be skidding, but I used a single locked up wheel to gauge how deep I could go into a corner.
Comes from when I had my old Formula Ford and you could actually see the inside tire start to smoke before it really locked. Yeah, it's quick but I could react to the smoke so the EEEEe was short. Also could see how just a tad less pedal would let it start rolling again. I'm easily amused.
Now with ABS, the thought that goes through your mind is MORE PEDAL, I'm NOT STOPPING!!!
Idea is you can stomp brakes and then Steer around stuff instead of hitting it.
You can steer, but you can't turn. Not possible. If tires are already just before the point of skid, there is precious little grip left to turn. Steer slightly, sure, but you can't turn.
Border on Lock up with that inner wheel and the car will pivot around it with the other 3. Not possible with ABS. Seems ALL the tires have empathy for the aboout-to-skid one and give up too.
But as stated above, flat stops are possible without ABS. ;^)
I'm still not convinced it is the best thing.
Here's why.
I've found my ABS cycling at inopportune times.
I realize if they weren't I would probably be skidding, but I used a single locked up wheel to gauge how deep I could go into a corner.
Comes from when I had my old Formula Ford and you could actually see the inside tire start to smoke before it really locked. Yeah, it's quick but I could react to the smoke so the EEEEe was short. Also could see how just a tad less pedal would let it start rolling again. I'm easily amused.
Now with ABS, the thought that goes through your mind is MORE PEDAL, I'm NOT STOPPING!!!
Idea is you can stomp brakes and then Steer around stuff instead of hitting it.
You can steer, but you can't turn. Not possible. If tires are already just before the point of skid, there is precious little grip left to turn. Steer slightly, sure, but you can't turn.
Border on Lock up with that inner wheel and the car will pivot around it with the other 3. Not possible with ABS. Seems ALL the tires have empathy for the aboout-to-skid one and give up too.
But as stated above, flat stops are possible without ABS. ;^)
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Because it's a royal PITA when they false-alarm on our bumpy-ass track.
And Jimmy: my tires are nothing but a flat spot all the way 'round. :coolman:
David,
I had to learn true threshold braking during my brief 5 years of campaigning a D/S 78 Ford Fiesta Ice racer, and negotiating the streets of Syracuse, NY in the winter for 27+ years. It is an extremely valuable tool that all good drivers should learn.
All of my driving prior to owning a 99 Navigator and then an 04 Cobra was on non ABS cars.
I still use the pedal modulation method to minimize the ABS intervention, it is less upsetting to my rather softly sprung car.
I LOVE the ABS because it is easy to read and saves my keester and tires in the event of a malfunctioning driver,:-D tires, or un-noticed track surface anomalies.
I use a very similar technique to yours except that I let the slight ABS pulse in the pedal tell me that I have asked too much of my tires at that point in time.
I have found that it is NEARLY ALWAYS THE INSIDE REAR LIFTING OFF THE GROUND.
Not all ABS systems are the same(captain obvious here:rollseyes), but the system in my 04, I really like, and I feel it is very easy to tell when it's "trippin" and when it's not, making braking intensity and depth adjustments quite easy.
I really don't think it's at all intrusive. If something expensive failed on it I would definitely fix it.
Edit: On the rotate issue I just lift a little more and the car turns in. If that fails, there's always a drift fix( Too much power, is more often than not, almost enough) just to keep from going off, but that costs time and next time around I try to just get it right on the stick in.
2nd EDIT: Greyasp I agree with you that on a very bumpy surface the ABS can grow quite annoying. I find that I have learned which ABS trips are worthy of a brake application adjustment and which ones are just a lifted inside rear wheel of a bad section of track.
The last two conditions I usually ignore.
I had to learn true threshold braking during my brief 5 years of campaigning a D/S 78 Ford Fiesta Ice racer, and negotiating the streets of Syracuse, NY in the winter for 27+ years. It is an extremely valuable tool that all good drivers should learn.
All of my driving prior to owning a 99 Navigator and then an 04 Cobra was on non ABS cars.
I still use the pedal modulation method to minimize the ABS intervention, it is less upsetting to my rather softly sprung car.
I LOVE the ABS because it is easy to read and saves my keester and tires in the event of a malfunctioning driver,:-D tires, or un-noticed track surface anomalies.
I use a very similar technique to yours except that I let the slight ABS pulse in the pedal tell me that I have asked too much of my tires at that point in time.
I have found that it is NEARLY ALWAYS THE INSIDE REAR LIFTING OFF THE GROUND.
Not all ABS systems are the same(captain obvious here:rollseyes), but the system in my 04, I really like, and I feel it is very easy to tell when it's "trippin" and when it's not, making braking intensity and depth adjustments quite easy.
I really don't think it's at all intrusive. If something expensive failed on it I would definitely fix it.
Edit: On the rotate issue I just lift a little more and the car turns in. If that fails, there's always a drift fix( Too much power, is more often than not, almost enough) just to keep from going off, but that costs time and next time around I try to just get it right on the stick in.
2nd EDIT: Greyasp I agree with you that on a very bumpy surface the ABS can grow quite annoying. I find that I have learned which ABS trips are worthy of a brake application adjustment and which ones are just a lifted inside rear wheel of a bad section of track.
The last two conditions I usually ignore.
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Might be that on a bumpy track, having an on/off switch to see which sets faster times could be worth it.
Especially if the tires are already square. :lol1:
Especially if the tires are already square. :lol1:
Edit: On the rotate issue I just lift a little more and the car turns in. If that fails, there's always a drift fix( Too much power, is more often than not, almost enough) just to keep from going off, but that costs time and next time around I try to just get it right on the stick in.
Very true, I use that too, but I found going into a long sweeper- turn 1 and 2 at Roebling are like a decreasing radius corner- I could hold the gas a tad longer and then trail brake into 2 with just a wisp of smoke off the inside front tire.... Not sure lifting the rear is a great idea, but would certainly rotate the car, too.
If into the corner, the weight transfers to the outside, the inside front is first to lighten. Less weight takes less to lock up, so it was a good indicator when you were at the limit.
Very true, I use that too, but I found going into a long sweeper- turn 1 and 2 at Roebling are like a decreasing radius corner- I could hold the gas a tad longer and then trail brake into 2 with just a wisp of smoke off the inside front tire.... Not sure lifting the rear is a great idea, but would certainly rotate the car, too.
If into the corner, the weight transfers to the outside, the inside front is first to lighten. Less weight takes less to lock up, so it was a good indicator when you were at the limit.
David
Is this on your Fox car?
Is it converted to a torque arm/coil over car? I have heard that a well set up, well driven torque arm car is just as fast as a Delrin IRS car(with similar weight and mods) on a smooth track.
Mine is so heavy and softly sprung it's hard to compare to some of my friend's cars with torque arm set ups, even with quite a bit less power to weight they are VERY FAST!
Here is a pic of the inside rear fairly close to lift off.(this is with sticky tires, the Delrin and the TrueTrac) no ABS trippin on this turn.
This is bone stock down to the tires. This one tripped the ABS later in the turn.
I've heard this too. Really makes me strongly consider dumping my heavy pig for a nice light/cheap/easily-modified Fox coupe.
It is really something to watch our instructor group out there with those CMC and AI cars! Not only are they very inspiring to watch drive, those cars are really quite agile and fairly fast.
They are a long way from being a civilized street car with a stereo and A/C though.
I still like driving mine on the street, it's comfy, very well behaved, and not at all race car like.
It's a street car, with a moderately robust track presence.
I'm thinking the optimum set up would be something like Greg mentioned, where you wire a switch in at the ABS fuse location so you could re-activate on the fly and compare lap times if you are at an event that allows that.:rockon:
Yes, I have a modified Griggs (Tommy Riggs in Florida built the cage, exhaust and modified the torque arm). It has a bodacious front swaybar. I still get more lean than I like in the front end.
'89 LX coupe 3190 lbs with my big butt in the seat.
http://www.rheacermotorsports.com/mustang.html
'89 LX coupe 3190 lbs with my big butt in the seat.
http://www.rheacermotorsports.com/mustang.html
That's what Bill Scott Racing, management for Summit Point, do to their training vehicles_ex-police Chevys and Fords. They're used for everything from skidpad use during DE events to Police and FBI training. I love throwing a big-ass Caprice around on a wet skidpad with no abs. :banana: :banana:
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