Cost-effective NA power

kdanner

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This forum can **** right off
NO it doesn't measure O2, it measures temp, the leaner the mix the higher the temp. When the o2 sensor sees a high temp condition it makes the computer aware and the computer makes the a/f richer thus cooling the exhaust temp. That's why we get such good milage with computer driven fuel injection systems. The computer/o2 sensor keep an almost lean condition. But of course you've know that for a long long long time.


OK buddy, because everyone knows the temp is the same at idle as it is at WOT.
 

wbt

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....another item to keep in mind here.....

The quickest/fastest N/A bolt-on 5.0 M6 and A6 cars are running what for exhausts?
 

coyotestang

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I have longtubes and never had a problem and they do give you quite a bit of power, I put down 396 on a mustang dyno and he said his dyno is 14% lower numbers than a dynojet
 

D.T.R

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I have longtubes and never had a problem and they do give you quite a bit of power, I put down 396 on a mustang dyno and he said his dyno is 14% lower numbers than a dynojet

Do you also have O/R midpipe ? those are pretty good numbers. Assuming he's right about that 14%, you'd be right around 450whp
 

coyotestang

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I know hes right hes well known around here its called intune motorsports.and yes I have stainless works o/r xpipe
 

D.T.R

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Why is everyone in such a disbelieve? It seems ok for a lot of 5.0s to hit 410/415/420 with just an O/R midpipe and a tune... but a lot of people seems to think it'd be impossible to squeeze 450whp with those 2 things PLUS long tubes... ?
 

Spd2Stang

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Why is everyone in such a disbelieve? It seems ok for a lot of 5.0s to hit 410/415/420 with just an O/R midpipe and a tune... but a lot of people seems to think it'd be impossible to squeeze 450whp with those 2 things PLUS long tubes... ?

its no so much unbelievable but more so what makes more power. Headers or just a midpipe.
My 11 hit 426WHPSAE on a dynojet. Its possible no doubt with a o/r midpipe alone. All cars will respond differently though so its hard to say 1 vs the other is better option.

You will need at least a cam to come close to 450 though fro, what ive seen.
 
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D.T.R

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its no so much unbelievable but more so what makes more power. Headers or just a midpipe.
My 11 hit 426WHPSAE on a dynojet. Its possible no doubt with a o/r midpipe alone. All cars will respond differently though so its hard to say 1 vs the other is better option.

You will need at least a cam to come close to 450 though fro, what ive seen.

I think CAI, O/R midpipe, LTs and a tune should be very close to 450whp.
 

BLK2012GT

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I think CAI, O/R midpipe, LTs and a tune should be very close to 450whp.

Not quite sorry. I have Boss 302 intake, steeda CAI, BBK LT off road x-pipe, magnaflow catback and tuned my HPP and I made 425 rwhp SAE at 7300 RPMS. The most they've seen which I do a shit load of new 5.0's is 440 with American Racing headers which I think I should had gone with those.
 

Graboid

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It's the wrong approach to solving a tune issue.

These cars have individual cylinder fuel multipliers and they use the rear narrow band O2's to 'check' the calibration of the widebands. Definately NOT a good idea to install the factory wideband into a single primary tube simply to correct the O2 heating issue and transport delays.

Understood. Now that brings up my next question. Do the rear narrow band sensors need to be turned off or disconnected? I have done that with my ORX pipe.
 

coyotestang

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Not quite sorry. I have Boss 302 intake, steeda CAI, BBK LT off road x-pipe, magnaflow catback and tuned my HPP and I made 425 rwhp SAE at 7300 RPMS. The most they've seen which I do a shit load of new 5.0's is 440 with American Racing headers which I think I should had gone with those.

Stainless works headers are just as good as american racing so whats ur point
 

Graboid

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Mmm may have answered my own question. Decided to take the stang out and got two codes. Both on rear o2 sensors.




Wow they must have run low on wire the day mine was built lol. The driver side rear o2 was easy to get hooked back up but the passenger side was a mother. I looked like a monkey hanging from the wires trying to get enough slack out of the bundle to get it to finally reach. Just knew I was going to snap or pull loose something but after a few we finally got it connected. Of course then it was raining so a data log was out....no wot pulls for me in the rain lol.
 
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